TOAK The thread of all knowledge VII
I'm thinkin' Marcus and Greg get together the day before the big install and watch a couple of Rube Goldberg videos.
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southeast Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
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Usually not much maybe .020, it really varies case to case as they are cast cases. Some cases you not have to grind at all. If want Greg before installing the bearing in the case slide the gearset in so you know where the 1st counter gear is (the 1st counter gear is the largest one on the counter shaft) and grind the bottom rear of the case in that location before installing the bearing in the case. Grind a strip the width of the gear about 2 inches long about .020 deep on the bottom rear corner of the case. Then you can blow the filings out of the case without having to worry about them getting into the bearings.
Main seal, quad seal and pulley spacer installation:
Again lube both the I.D and O.D of the of the main seal. Now install the quad seal(four sided o-ring) onto the main drive gear. Now look at the pulley spacer you will notice one inside edge has a chamfer on it. The chamfer goes in towards the pulley spacer.
Edit; I meant to say the chamfer goes in towards the quad seal.
Again lube both the I.D and O.D of the of the main seal. Now install the quad seal(four sided o-ring) onto the main drive gear. Now look at the pulley spacer you will notice one inside edge has a chamfer on it. The chamfer goes in towards the pulley spacer.
Edit; I meant to say the chamfer goes in towards the quad seal.
Last edited by corliss@bakerdrivetrain.com; 01-18-2017 at 10:07 AM.
Also beware of the left hand thread nuts. Both the pulley nut and the clutch nut are left hand threads. righty loosey lefty tighty.
Everybody caught up?, Good, the 2nd main shift fork can be a pain in the *** to get in. Just try sliding the second main gear back and forth until you find the one good position that the fork will just drop in.