Which oil for the Florida heat?
#11
03-19-2012, 03:06 PM
Road Master
#12
03-19-2012, 04:27 PM
This is my opinion of course based off of my experience.
I'd use mobile vtwin 20-50 in all. It's proven and is easy to get. Tranny shifts a lot smoother than the shockproof that was in it. I also wouldn't use anything thinner than 20-50. Florida is considered subtropical and is way too hot for anything thinner for an air cooled engine. I'm not saying that you can't but motors that are run hard will have more longevity using 20-50 versus a thinner oil.
In case you're wondering the difference in the standard auto mobile 1 versus the vtwin mobile 1 is that the auto is formulated to sustain breakdown to 250 degrees versus the vtwin that sustains up to 300 degrees.
If you do go with gear live than stay away from gl5 lubes as they are corrosive to red metals.
I'd use mobile vtwin 20-50 in all. It's proven and is easy to get. Tranny shifts a lot smoother than the shockproof that was in it. I also wouldn't use anything thinner than 20-50. Florida is considered subtropical and is way too hot for anything thinner for an air cooled engine. I'm not saying that you can't but motors that are run hard will have more longevity using 20-50 versus a thinner oil.
In case you're wondering the difference in the standard auto mobile 1 versus the vtwin mobile 1 is that the auto is formulated to sustain breakdown to 250 degrees versus the vtwin that sustains up to 300 degrees.
If you do go with gear live than stay away from gl5 lubes as they are corrosive to red metals.
Fossil (non-synthetic) oils have a thermal break point of ~250*
Synthetic oil, Mobil-1 Automotive Oil included, has a thermal break point of 300+*
Mobil-1 V-Twin oil is specifically designed for V-Twin bikes where the motor, primary and tranny have a single oil supply, because clutches do not fair well with more than trace amounts of Moly as an additive. Because Harley has 3 separate holes, this is a non issue.
80,000 miles on my Sporty using Mobil-1 15w-50 Automotive oil and here's my last Oil Analysis from a couple of months ago. I don't think I'll be paying for any $$$ boutique oil any time soon...
BTW, a 5 quart jug of Mobil-1 15w50 runs ~$25.00.
Last edited by cHarley; 03-19-2012 at 04:33 PM.
#13
03-19-2012, 04:35 PM
#14
03-19-2012, 04:59 PM
This is my opinion of course based off of my experience.
I'd use mobile vtwin 20-50 in all. It's proven and is easy to get. Tranny shifts a lot smoother than the shockproof that was in it. I also wouldn't use anything thinner than 20-50. Florida is considered subtropical and is way too hot for anything thinner for an air cooled engine. I'm not saying that you can't but motors that are run hard will have more longevity using 20-50 versus a thinner oil.
In case you're wondering the difference in the standard auto mobile 1 versus the vtwin mobile 1 is that the auto is formulated to sustain breakdown to 250 degrees versus the vtwin that sustains up to 300 degrees.
If you do go with gear live than stay away from gl5 lubes as they are corrosive to red metals.
I'd use mobile vtwin 20-50 in all. It's proven and is easy to get. Tranny shifts a lot smoother than the shockproof that was in it. I also wouldn't use anything thinner than 20-50. Florida is considered subtropical and is way too hot for anything thinner for an air cooled engine. I'm not saying that you can't but motors that are run hard will have more longevity using 20-50 versus a thinner oil.
In case you're wondering the difference in the standard auto mobile 1 versus the vtwin mobile 1 is that the auto is formulated to sustain breakdown to 250 degrees versus the vtwin that sustains up to 300 degrees.
If you do go with gear live than stay away from gl5 lubes as they are corrosive to red metals.
I would like to hear what personal experiences you have had that have lead you to your conclusions? (in no way flaming here, just interested in how you came to your conclusions.)
#16
03-19-2012, 05:57 PM
#17
03-19-2012, 06:00 PM
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I have 140,000 on my 96" engine. 95% of that is running Mobil1 15-50. The other 5% is other various oils I picked up at a bargain here or there. I have had no engine related problems due to oil, and am still running strong.
I would like to hear what personal experiences you have had that have lead you to your conclusions? (in no way flaming here, just interested in how you came to your conclusions.)
I would like to hear what personal experiences you have had that have lead you to your conclusions? (in no way flaming here, just interested in how you came to your conclusions.)
I would love to get rid of the loud clunking when I shift...
Thanks for all the replies, guys.
#18
03-19-2012, 06:17 PM
#19
03-19-2012, 06:17 PM
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I have tried every oil out there. Every engine I ever put mobil 1 into got louder. I'm not saying it's not protecting,they just got louder.
Now if you want to lessen that "clunk" put gear oil in your tranny. Red line shockproof eliminated the clunk in my 6 speed but I would have no second thoughts about using royal purple either.
Now if you want to save a few bucks use plain old rotella 15w-40 in the primary. It's got the JASO stamp which means wet clutch safe and the primary doesn't need the expensive stuff.
My 96 was the most quiet with red line 20w-50. The bike purred with it in the engine. But I also have a large stockpile of amsoil v-twin and mobil 1 v-twin.
The above posters are correct. You can use any automotive oil in the 20w-50 flavour in the engine. 15w-50 is fine as well. The key number it the second one,it's the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature. The first number is the viscosity when below freezing(w=winter)
You don't NEED synthetic as long as you change conventional at 3000 miles your all set. Syn will last 5000 miles so if you don't plan on extending your drain interval you are essentially pouring money down the drain. Syn oils are not more slippery,they just last longer,resist thermal breakdown for a longer period of time.
So to recap red line
shockproof or any 70w-140(for your hot climate) or 70w-90 gear oil in tranny. Rotella conventional in your primary and any oil with the second number 50 will do just fine.
In your climate a straight weight 50 will do great. It resists shear longer and cold viscosity is a mute point. In the summer you could even go straight 60 in the Florida heat.
Now if you want to lessen that "clunk" put gear oil in your tranny. Red line shockproof eliminated the clunk in my 6 speed but I would have no second thoughts about using royal purple either.
Now if you want to save a few bucks use plain old rotella 15w-40 in the primary. It's got the JASO stamp which means wet clutch safe and the primary doesn't need the expensive stuff.
My 96 was the most quiet with red line 20w-50. The bike purred with it in the engine. But I also have a large stockpile of amsoil v-twin and mobil 1 v-twin.
The above posters are correct. You can use any automotive oil in the 20w-50 flavour in the engine. 15w-50 is fine as well. The key number it the second one,it's the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature. The first number is the viscosity when below freezing(w=winter)
You don't NEED synthetic as long as you change conventional at 3000 miles your all set. Syn will last 5000 miles so if you don't plan on extending your drain interval you are essentially pouring money down the drain. Syn oils are not more slippery,they just last longer,resist thermal breakdown for a longer period of time.
So to recap red line
shockproof or any 70w-140(for your hot climate) or 70w-90 gear oil in tranny. Rotella conventional in your primary and any oil with the second number 50 will do just fine.
In your climate a straight weight 50 will do great. It resists shear longer and cold viscosity is a mute point. In the summer you could even go straight 60 in the Florida heat.
#20
03-19-2012, 06:24 PM
I have tried every oil out there. Every engine I ever put mobil 1 into got louder. I'm not saying it's not protecting,they just got louder.
Now if you want to lessen that "clunk" put gear oil in your tranny. Red line shockproof eliminated the clunk in my 6 speed but I would have no second thoughts about using royal purple either.
Now if you want to save a few bucks use plain old rotella 15w-40 in the primary. It's got the JASO stamp which means wet clutch safe and the primary doesn't need the expensive stuff.
My 96 was the most quiet with red line 20w-50. The bike purred with it in the engine. But I also have a large stockpile of amsoil v-twin and mobil 1 v-twin.
The above posters are correct. You can use any automotive oil in the 20w-50 flavour in the engine. 15w-50 is fine as well. The key number it the second one,it's the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature. The first number is the viscosity when below freezing(w=winter)
You don't NEED synthetic as long as you change conventional at 3000 miles your all set. Syn will last 5000 miles so if you don't plan on extending your drain interval you are essentially pouring money down the drain. Syn oils are not more slippery,they just last longer,resist thermal breakdown for a longer period of time.
So to recap red line
shockproof or any 70w-140(for your hot climate) or 70w-90 gear oil in tranny. Rotella conventional in your primary and any oil with the second number 50 will do just fine.
In your climate a straight weight 50 will do great. It resists shear longer and cold viscosity is a mute point. In the summer you could even go straight 60 in the Florida heat.
Now if you want to lessen that "clunk" put gear oil in your tranny. Red line shockproof eliminated the clunk in my 6 speed but I would have no second thoughts about using royal purple either.
Now if you want to save a few bucks use plain old rotella 15w-40 in the primary. It's got the JASO stamp which means wet clutch safe and the primary doesn't need the expensive stuff.
My 96 was the most quiet with red line 20w-50. The bike purred with it in the engine. But I also have a large stockpile of amsoil v-twin and mobil 1 v-twin.
The above posters are correct. You can use any automotive oil in the 20w-50 flavour in the engine. 15w-50 is fine as well. The key number it the second one,it's the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature. The first number is the viscosity when below freezing(w=winter)
You don't NEED synthetic as long as you change conventional at 3000 miles your all set. Syn will last 5000 miles so if you don't plan on extending your drain interval you are essentially pouring money down the drain. Syn oils are not more slippery,they just last longer,resist thermal breakdown for a longer period of time.
So to recap red line
shockproof or any 70w-140(for your hot climate) or 70w-90 gear oil in tranny. Rotella conventional in your primary and any oil with the second number 50 will do just fine.
In your climate a straight weight 50 will do great. It resists shear longer and cold viscosity is a mute point. In the summer you could even go straight 60 in the Florida heat.