Bike is a 2013 Street Bob with a 103" motor, 68 tooth Sportster pulley, Hillside stage 2 heads, Woods Tw 5-6 cams, .030" head gasket, Upgraded AC and Rush slipons..

I finished my 2nd auto tune yesterday and the bike seems to run very well but it's hard to tell because the temperature here is only 48-49ﾟ currently but the bike runs awesome.. I have a couple of questions.. First I'm going to list different map charts so you can see my progress and then the questions.. However for some reason I cannot load the Fuel Moto tune I used to get me started.. the bike had very good power with the Fuel Motto flashed tune but I had some vibrations at 1900 rpm and 2400 rpm. So I started Auto tune sessions abs here's whet I'm currently at..


The first auto tune still had a little vibrations so I did another.. Nothing to lose..


This second tune really shows how the EPA block was brought down to it richest limits. I like this tune a lot. The bike is very responsive and very smooth with the acceleration.. However I would like to make some Block changes in the second in the second auto tune session because I kinda like "lean is Mean" but not too lean to cause issues.. The 2 following maps are what I will try within the next couple of weeks.. Any of you guys that are familiar manually changing blocks and see something you don't think is going to work please let me know, I'm trying to transition the AFR's to rpm and load..Thanks...

 

For those that are interested, after I loaded the last map and went riding I had problems with a very erratic idle. Sometimes it would spit and lean out and stall.. The idle was going from 800 to 1000 RPM and very inconsistent. And noticed that in the VE tables for front and rear cylinders in the dark blue section were very different.. The percentages were down as low as 66% for the front cylinder compared to 70% for the rear.. So I raised the front VE's to kind of mirror the rear cylinder... It really helped a lot.. It's smoothed out my idle and idles beautifully and consistently around 975 rpm..

 

" I had problems with a very erratic idle. Sometimes it would spit and lean out and stall "

I think I am having this same issue. Did you fix it using the actual tuner on the bike or using the program on the computer. I am not very tech savvy when it comes to the DynoJet PV Tuner and software. How did you raise the front VE's?

This is my tuner....

 

lets go back to your desired AFR table.
how often is the bike running at 60 Map + in the areas and throttle positions that you have? its very rare that you will cruise with those MAP values. in those collums i would richen it up to 13.6 or so.
you might give that a shot. id want the bike a tad richer in those areas.
the blocks that you have at 14.1 are where you would be considered cruising, hence the leaner afr for fuel mileage, once the MAP value gets higher than what your bike sees for cruise, i want it to go richer as it makes its transition out of a cruise area.
m
30.40.50 Map up to 3500 rpm at 14.1 for cruise. the rest richer, once you drop below that 14.1 value, the bike goes into open loop and runs off your Desired table and the ECM//02 sensors are not making corrections, if you can get them to work well you might as well in order to get some fuel economy.
sometimes when running multiple AT sessions, your idle VE can get whacked out. take note of the values when it runs well, and paste them back in if the AT makes them change.

 

I did both.. changed the desired AFR setting in the rear to match the front, it helped a little bit the auto tune arms to help the most.. Just the other day I did another auto tune but this time I only did it for the area from idle to 1250 rpm. I brought the green screen up and I began auto tuning the very top left cells by just barley blipping the throttle and trying to get to 99 hits per cell.. it took a while but I think I actually achieved a better idle.. it's a little more steady now at 920 to 970..
..

 

So you're saying all the cells RPM wise for 60 kPa, I should bring down at least a 13.8 and then at 70 kPa maybe 13.6 and then 80/13.2 is this what you're saying.. And these are my desired AFR's?

 

Marcodarq... Is this the type of chart you were looking for? Keep in mind I've been tuning for several years with a Wego III on carbureted bikes.. This is a little different but I still understand.. thanks..

 

Yes that is better to me. You need to remember that that value of 14.1( or the spread to 14.6) is actually more like an on, off switch with a little bias to it. That is what is used to keep the ecm running in closed loop. To me, the only time i would want closed loop is during cruise. I personally prefer a richer idle mixture do to the conditions where i live. That is why dyno jet set up the spread in afr value, they used to call it closed loop bias or something like that. The idea was to get it into closed loop, but run a tad richer. With the ethanol based fuels most of us get, i like the richest value that will still get to and maintain closed loop operation.
once the value in the desired afr table is out of that spread, richer than the 14.1, the bike goes open loop and if your VE is set right, that is the value the ecm is going to fire the injectors to get. It really can be like " electronic carb jetting" once the proper VE values are set.
m

 

Thanks Marcodarq.. One more question, when I first loaded the tune from Fuel Moto the one thing that I didn't understand was the first column, 20 kPa. Why was that so much richer than the next 4 columns, 27-50 kPa...?

 

That area is mostly decel. I would think they set it to the rich side to try to avoid decel popping. Do you have the handle bar mount? If so, mount the PV, with it plugged in, set up dome guages, T/P, MAP, TEMP,and maybe knock counts, go out and test ride it, try most of your normal cruise environments, and see what your map values look like at those times, or you can data log it also. That will tell you if and or when and where you need to make adjustments, this will also help when you start to work with ignition timing.
m