Maybe time to stop by his place with a bottle for him and put your bike up on the dyno there just to kind of get a status report.
m

 

I was planning on it... I'll have to call him next week . The family is going up to the Columbus house which is only a half hour from his shop...

 

What do you think about this timing charts? I lowered the idle timing a lot to help with heat when idling in traffic.. I think I should've kept the 30 and 40 kPa timing on the cruise rpm's a little higher just to help with fuel mileage...


I

 

Did the idle timing adjustment actually lower the engine temp? If so, ok keep it. Most of the stuff i see like between 12 and 20 at idle. My issue with your timing is the 80-100 map collums, I'd bet that it's waaayyyy too agressive, from 2k rpm all the way up. High compression Twinkies dont need anywhere close too that. 28-32 at most, and a slow and gradual climb, slower than you might expect. This is where the dyno time really pays off.
the midrange changes look like they should work well. Start recording your engine temps and fuel mileage, but definitely retard the 80-100 colums. It might be a good idea for you to download the free TTS software and look at a bunch of the calibrations in it.
m

 

Not sure about the engine temps.. Have yet to run this tune.. I want to see what the 70-100 will be after my next run and go from there.. A good log will tell.. My biggest problem with the previous tune was after 4500 rpm the motor just seemed to flatten out.. I want to see if this aggressive tune in that range will change that without getting into higher temps or knock retards... Must say I love the PV when it comes to real time display.. If I do encounter an issue with the tune I can always pull over and load a previous tune..

 

your previous timing table was also waaay to agressive and most likely the reason why it was flatting out,,,,,i would bet you end up not needing more than 26 degrees total advance in the 90-100 collums,,,,,very slow slope up....i found it hard to believe myself, but the dyno results dont lie.
m

 

So I had a little knock retarding in my last map. It only happened twice for literally 1 second in the 4800-5200 rpm range between 90 and 100 KPa. The most retarding was 1 degree of timing.. So I lowered my timing tables 2-3 degrees and the rear was 2 degrees less than the front table. Just as marcodarq said.. So this is the new table and the log is listed down below.. I will say this though, the bike is quite fast.. Can't wait to get it on a Dyno...

 

Actually my last timing chart had more retarded timing in it than I thought so I made a change..
Here's lastest timing chart, the front timing chart is very similar.. along with 2 logs. First log 009 is a 5th gear roll on. Second log is a 0-120 mph run going through 4th gear from a dead stop.. kinda missed the 1st to 2nd shift just a tad.. oh well.. still like the acceleration though..

 

I just wanted to update this thread about the heavy vibrations from idle to 2000 rpm.. What I did was, I looked at the original tune that came with the bike and noticed that the VE table's were a lot higher than what auto tune had changed them to.. So I loaded a comparison chart (the original stock tune) and mirrored the VE tables and added 2% in the areas of 0-50 kpa from idle (only because of the motor upgrades, cams, heads etc) through 6500 rpm. What a difference.. Acceleration is smoother and a lot less vibration from the motor.. I guess it was way too lean.. I did not touch my timing tables... So the following charts are where the front and rear VE's are currently at.. Even though it was only 56* when I took it out, the engine temp never went over 226*.. I will post another update once the bike comes back from a Dyno tune.. I have it scheduled to be done in April by Rosa's in Huntingtin NY.. I'm getting happy with the way it is right now.. We'll see what the Dyno tune does for it.. I'll post before and after... NOTE: I'm still teaching myself about Fuel Injection.... If you look back to post 2 you'll see the difference in the tables..

like I said though, I'm new to this so if I'm wrong please let me know... Thanks ...

 

Are you using the Pro (wideband) set up for auto tune?

One way to verify how effective your changes are is to log a "normal" ride and then compare VE to new VE (the My Tune program is also good for this) also look at AFR to see how close you are getting to the desired AFR you have in your tables, you can tweak your VE a bit to hit those targets

Another thing I do when auto-tuning is take a pic of the screen when it shows you what cells you hit and then when I'm in WinPV blend the cells in between that I didn't hit