Sorry everyone but I am an idiot when it comes to tuning and I can’t find what I’m looking for when searching the threads.

Ive had heat issues with my 17 fxdls since I installed my se 117 kit. On a 80 degree day my pv reads engine temp around 280. It doesn’t take much to hit 300 either. Originally I ran a pv auto tune and every month or two the exhaust studs (front cylinder) would break. After break in I had my dealer dyno tune it. I still had heat issues and even cracked the head pipe on my fat cat twice. I shut It down if it hits 300. The bike has been down for a while but I believe it’s running lean. Hoping to confirm this when the weather breaks. Sorry for the long winded background but that’s all the relevant info I can think of.

Assuming it is running lean, do you suggest I adjust global fuel in quick tune, or by rpm range? Or something else all together? I’m happy with the power and torque curve so I don’t want to lose power if I don’t have to. It puts out about 122 ft lbs which is good enough for me for now.

 

The modified engine is going to create more heat than a stock engine however you are within the normal engine temps (ET) for your application. For example, normal engine temps on a Twin Cam are generally 240-320F relative to conditions, load, engine modifications, etc.. In warmer weather it is completely normal for these engines to run well into the 300's especially in slow moving traffic, and when stationary this will continue to rise.

 

I know the added displacement will cause more heat but isn’t there something I can do to cool it down even a little? When it hits 300 it cracks the studs or the header and even on the freeway it usually stays around 280-286.

 

Have your tuning shop check the tune. 300 degrees will not crack studs or the exhaust system, something else is going on there, a stock Twin Cam 103 will surpass that temperature in warmer weather. A running temp of 280 is completely normal.

 

I would suspect that your exhaust is under stress due to alignment/mounting issues
Last poster here breaking studs had his pipe mounted in such a way that it could not move with the rubber mounted engine.

 

thank you. Any ideas specifically? Only thing I can really think of is just removing it, installing the headers and torquing them down, then installing the pipe and torquing it last. It’s a d&d fat cat so there isn’t much in terms of adjustments. Thanks again.