All,

I got my 08 Nightster 1200 back in March and unfortunately am already dealing with some repair issues (at 7500 miles nonetheless)

Based on the test results as instructed by my Clymer's manual, I need to replace my stator. I'm wondering, while I'm in the primary, is there any adjustments/bearings/notorious issues I should look out for/address while I'm at it?

The plan is to replace the stator itself, add a new OEM BATTERY(instead of generic powersports battery like the halfwit I bought the bike from put in there), then sew her up and give her a fresh primary-fluid change.

Should I replace the rotor too? Like replacing a chain/sprockets at the same time? Anything tricky with re-tensioning my primary drive chain?

Any and all suggestions are welcomed, encouraged, and appreciated!


***ALSO, any 'headsup' or 'watchout for this step' comments would be awesome too. I will have the parts in the mail before the end of the week****

Thanks in advance for the guidance!

 

It might be wise to get the special tool you're going to need to get the stater and clutch basket nuts broken loose. I had a hell of a time with my 95 when I did the stator on mine this last winter. Also be sure to use locktite on the nuts when you reinstall them. If you don't want to buy the special puller for the stator you can always modify a 3 jaw pulley puller like I did. It just takes some time to grind the hooks down to fit behind the gear. You may also want look into replacing the voltage regulator since usually when one goes the other is soon to follow. Just some friendly advice.

 

See my post about replacing the stator and regulator HERE.

No special tools needed except for a $10 door hinge. You shouldn't need a puller to get the rotor off, but some people's get stuck and need it. I did not. I did need a very large cheater bar for getting my crank nut off, though. Your mileage may vary, all my experiences are in the post.

And unless you damaged the rotor somehow, it will not need replaced.

 

I would go for a 38 amp not the standard 30, especially if you want to add lights of any kind. Standard stator seems too small, always on the verge of not charging.

Cheers,

PS: Did you replace the spring plate in the clutch? if not do it now.

.

 

Odds are if the stator has failed this early there's a reason.

Does you bike have any aftermarket additional lighting?

Did you test the voltage regulator yet? They don't always go bad with a faulty stator.

I see it's 6 years old, do you use a battery tender when not riding? Especially important during winter storage if you want to keep the battery as long as possible.

As for an upgrade in output, this may require a new rotor and voltage regulator. I upgraded my 22 amp (1986) system to 32 amps, the kit was about $250 with all 3 main parts.

The rotor is magnetized and sometime difficult to pull off, it resists being taken apart.

Not sure about Sportsters but on my Tour glide there are two large nuts needing removal. One the nut (bolt) on the compensator (standard threads) where the rotor and stator are behind, and the clutch assembly nut (opposite direction of standard threads). Typically you pull the entire primary mechanisms as a unit taking the compensator, primary chain, and clutch assembly off together.

The torque on the compensator and clutch is critical and a good torque wrench is required along with the locktite. These are two large nuts and odds are you'll need to pick up the sockets to do the job. Try an auto parts store nearby for the sockets.

Best wishes. Once you've gone through the primary the first time you'll never fear opening it up again.

 

My only suggestion would be to use a Cycle Electric stator rather than OEM. The OEM stator is known to have a pretty short service life.

 

FYI - I recall the write up you posted a year or two back ... great job.

 

Gents,

Much appreciate the advise/tips here! I'm going to order the parts this week. I don't see any need for a beefier stator currently or in the near future. The only thing I have added is the V&H Fuelpak. Everything else is stock electronically. I WILL be adding HID lightbulb kit this winter though. Wonder if that will pull much?

I have some magnets and am not too worried about getting the rotor off. Wish me luck! I may regret that decision haha.

Is there a gasket I will need for the surface where the primary seams come together? Or is that just metal-on-metal?

Thanks for the headsup on the clutch spring, I will grab one of those too while I'm at it. Never thought I'd have to deal with something like this at 7500 miles, but I also didn't buy the bike brand new so what can I say.

Thanks!

Chuck

 

Scuba,

Thanks a bunch for this link! I overlooked it when scouting on my own. A very nice write-up indeed.

A couple of quick questions for you guys after doing some more scouting.

I saw in a video a guy using a block of wood as a "brace" between the sprocket and chain (not between both sprockets). Would this work also if it was stepped down correctly? I'll probably just buy the door hinge to be safe.

Has anyone used an impact wrench on the beefier bolts? I have one that (allegedly) throws down 350 ft-lbs and I'm thinking might make my life easier? Bad idea???

Lastly, I saw a video of a guy only pull off the pulley/rotor without touching the clutch assembly. The drive chain just hung out of the way. Would that be possible on this one or would it make it too tough angling that pulley back in place?

Thanks again everyone!

 

Inner and outer primary has a gasket between them.

Taking off the hardware with the impact wrench is helpful. You won't want to use it to put things back on because they must be torqued to specs, and over driving them will cause extensive damage. Be sure to note the compensator is the standard direction righty tighty, left loosy, but the clutch assembly is reverse, backwards, righty loosy, lefty tighty ... LOL

Some styles of Harley have enough open space to remove the compensator without having to take off the clutch. I'm not at all certain about yours.

The brace lock to keep the gears from moving while wrenching is important for both disassembling and reassembling. It can be any of a group of odd components that wedge the sprockets from turning. There are designs out there (and in this forum) for using a simple designed metal bar. I used a commercial steel door stop with a durable thick rubber coating between the chain and the gear. Caution has to be used so you don't damage the sprocket's teeth, or the primary chain.

Now I'm not a Sportster guy but I can tell you that on some of the bigger bikes you have to take off the inner primary (helluva lotta work) to get the stator on and off. Some models you can use a Dremel to remove some of the inner primary metal to slip the stator past any stopping points from the inner primary still being on. Hopefully your ride will allow removal with just the outter primary cover off.

I know I left you with more questions to answer, and I hope those who really know your ride can fill in the blanks.