Hello all, I am new to the forum and thanks everyone for the useful information provided in this forum.

After 9 months of storage here in san Diego, my 2005 Sportster 1200c (with carburetor,) doesn’t start. During that time, I installed a custom oil tank, and new Harley plugs (gaped at 40.) and the bike was not started at all during the 9 months.

Before I store the bike I had backfiring issues at start. During all those months the fuel petcock was left open, and the premium fuel had no additives or cleaners. The tank had about 1/3 of fuel in it.

Before I tried to start the bike a installed a new battery, I spray some CRC carburetor cleaner, change the fob key battery, checked and cleaned the fuses, and tried to start the bike. It only cranks,... If I spray starting fluid at the carburator filter feels like its going to start.

I filled up the tank with new premium fuel and pour half of a small bottle of Lucas Upper cylinder Lubricant and Injector Cleaner and tried to shake the bike to mixed everything in there. I checked for spark, and I do have a nice spark on both cylinders.

Immediately after cranking it, I removed both spark plugs and they were dry. There is no backfiring now. Only cranks.

Any help would be appreciated. I want to avoid removing and cleaning the carburetor.

 

Could be a few different things...however my 03 1200c did the same thing ( not after a long sit) it ended up being the ignition module.

 

If you stored the bike with ethanol fuel, it will separate and contain water, always store
your bike with "rec 90" or other non-ethanol fuel.

Drain the complete fuel system, put in fresh fuel.
Still a problem?
Clean the carb.

 

put the petcock on 'reserve' and try it again. If it starts then you have a problem with the petcock vacuum line (probably cracked) The reserve position bypasses the vacuum signal which normally opens the valve. The fact that your plugs are dry means you're not getting gas to the carb.

As mentioned, the ethanol could also be an issue and may have crudded up the inside of he carb, may need to take it apart and check the float valve, make sure it's not stuck closed.

 

But ethanol is environmentally friendly. How can it be bad in any way? (Sarcasm)

 

I don't mean to belittle your efforts, but make sure your "Run" switch is on. I have repeatedly caught myself humiliated with having used the "kill" switch, and then cursing at my inability to start the bike. Just a thought...

 

After what John_K said about the petcock, I went back and tried on “reserve” to start the bike. Nothing. I empty the full tank (old fuel) through the petcock.

Fuel comes out consistent on “open fuel.” I am confused, I thought the petcock needed vacuum to have fuel flow??? Maybe it was modified by the previous owner to a vacuumless petcock ??

I removed the fuel feed hose from the carburetor and replaced it with hose which will feed the carburetor from a plastic bottle hanging from my mirrors. Again, cranks but won’t start. Dry spark plugs!!

Because of dry spark plugs and almost starting when Starting Fluid is sprayed on the filter I really thing is the carburetor and not a module, or something else.

The bike has Ballistic Lithium Evo2 Battery, but they are so delicate that I will get a OEM Remanufactured battery to continue troubleshooting the bike.

Yes Thumper26 I check the “run switch” many times wishing it was the problem.

Is there a way to clean / check the float valve without removing the carburetor from the bike…???

 

Spray starter fluid directly into the cylinders through the spark plug holes. If it starts you know you are having a fuel related issue. Just remember that starter fluid drys quickly so the whole process should be done swiftly. I personally would do this before spending time doing anything else.

It's been a long time since I sold my sportster but if I remember correctly you do not have to take off the carburetor from the bike to check the float valve. Although it is very useful to take off the carburetor because working upside down or working with a mirror is a hassle. Believe me, it is not as difficult as it might seem. After taking off the carburetor numerous times (10-15times) I could take it off in less than 10 minutes and put it back on in less than 15 minutes. It is a lot more enjoyable working on your carburetor on your working table than fiddling with small parts such as the float valve. Also the float valve is not connected to anything so it will be the biggest pain holding it up while putting everything else on.

Spray starting fluid directly into the cylinders and let us know how it goes

 

It's a small problem and you are simply paying the price for improper storage. Your carburetor is gummed up and likely the rubber parts are hardened from ethanol fuel. That was likely the cause of your earlier problems as well.

Take it to a competent shop or, if you are the careful and methodical sort, buy a high quality OEM rebuild kit and carefully clean and rebuild the carburetor.

Once you've spent that time and money only use premium non-ethanol fuel. From here on store it correctly - full tank, run stabilized fuel through the carburetor and fuel petcock closed. You'll have many happy carbureted miles.