What length of cables did you get for the Narrow Glide Mini Apes? Any recommendations about the height of the risers?

 

I split the difference and went with real Flanders flat track bars but I ride a Bob so what do I know.Think about how you ride apes are only comfortable at speeds under 70 after that it feels like your doing a pull up, drag bars are designed for going fast like drag racing, not real comfy at low speeds without alot of rise.

 

I got 6 over cables. the throttle cables really only need to be 3 over.brake line i got was 4 over this is with 2 inch risers. I would recommend that you measure every thing out for the look you want.

 

Here are a couple links that should help a lot. First is from a member here who is working a bar swap and providing detailed info on the process:

https://www.hdforums.com/m_1328001/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm

Second link is for stock handlebar measurements. It'll tell you the stock dimensions for most stock bars. Using that and the formula quoted here is a way to get a ball-park of how long to do cables.

http://www.sideroadcycles.com/Import...ckBarsOne.html

"New cables and new brake lines? When buying new bars, a rough formula to follow is to measure the increased height + 1/2 the increased pullback that the new bars will give you. This amount will be very close to how much additional cable and brake line that you may need. However, the best method is to fit the new bars to the motorcycle and then make the increased length determinations, if needed at all."

In truth this formula didn't work out to exactly what I used. I consulted my local indy mech and got some good advice. But in the absence of a mech or the actual bars on hand to test fit everything, this formula is adequate.

One thing not covered is how long to extend the control wires and turn signal wires. You can use the formula above. Whatever it works out to, I'd get a little longer. From personal experience doing my Springer apes,I moved the turn signals to the forks so I didn't need to extend those wires. For the controls, I went with an 8" Novello kit. Based on dry fit and calculations it was the right length. Turned out it was EXACTLY right. I had zero play or excess. It would have been better had I went for the 12" extensions. That would have given me flexibility to route the wires better. Having too much isn't really a concern. Most likely you are only looking at a couple inches tops. It's easy to hide an inch or two but its not so easy to stretch a few inches out of wiring too short.

 

One more note on the wire extensions.

I'm not a big fan of cutting and splicing. I recommend using a semi-permanent extension. Sure some of us have a solder gun, some shrink tube and wire on hand and can knock it out in short time and at little to no cost. But its a one way option. I did this on my 1200C and in hindsight I wish I had not. But I had a couple more opportunities to try out different options.

For my wife's bike I went with some prefab HD extensions. (72150-03 and 72151-03) for left and right controls. These are 8-10" long and come with male and female color-coded deutch connectors attached. This was plug and play. I liked the idea of not having to cut anything and easily remove them should I need or want to. Drawback was an extra set of clunky deutch connectors to stash under the tank.

Last iteration was doing my Springer. For this one I was running internally wired bars so I couldn't use the HD extensions. However, I still didn't want to cut and solder. So I went with Novello extensions (pictured). These are a great option. Kit is complete, wires are color matched, and installation is a snap. Disassemble deutch connectors (2 mins and a small flat head screwdriver), attach extensions to control wires, apply shrink tube, reassemble deutch connectors at new wires ends, and you are done. Splices are male-female deutch pins that won't come free until you want them to. Additionally, you didn't cut or destroy anything. No mess or time with soldering.

Doing them all over again knowing what I know now I would use Novello kits on all of them.


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Thanks. That looks like to will help alot.

 

I have had both...drags and mini-apes (10") on my Sportsters, and I DEFINITELY prefer mini-apes. On a Sportster Custom...they have a 4" riser, so 10" bars give you a 14" rise. For me...that put my hands just above my shoulders stretched straight out. I loved it. I could ride all day long that way and never felt like my back was locking up on me!!

 

Comfort wise I like the apes. A second benefit for me being 6'4" is that the bike does not look so compact with me on it... with the drag bars it's almost like a crotch rocket b/c the bars are so close. I currently have 12" apes but will be going to 17" bars in the near future.. or new 12s with 4" risers.. still working out the details... I'm so wishy-washy.

 

i went with the 12" mini apes from JP cycles. nice chrome and also changed over to braided cables. the apes put you more upright and it made a tremendous difference in comfort for me. no more back lock-ups, and can ride all day long. i did the thru to bars cabling and it really does give the bike a much cleaner look. good luck and let us know which way you go...

 

1200,
got any pics?