Every other ECU I have experience with stored LTFTs in volatile memory that would be erased as soon as soon as power was disconnected. If this is not the case for the Harley ECU then that means it can flash non-volatile memory by itself...

 

awilson40,

Can you give me your observations of moving from the IED to the FM micro tuner? I would like to know what you found with the move.
Regards
IronSun

 

The biggest thing that baffles me is that ied's allow a richer AFR than obtainable using a safe clb voltage and still keep life of sensor. The sensor maxes out around 800 mv which is right around 14.0. The mv sent to factory o2 sensor to obtain any richer AFR will fry the sensor. So the ied gives way richer afr without really using the 02 sensor? Or is the change of Resistance added allowing that?

 

The Xied's improved the surging but never totally eliminated it. By switching to the Micro EFI I was able to remove the O2 Sensors and tune out the surging.

While the canned tune with the controller worked fine , I still ended up going through quite a few revisions before I got it where I wanted it. I'm really happy with it.

 

I did some research on this today. I spoke with Fuel Moto, Dynojet, Steve at Night Rider, HD corporate technical support and 3 dealerships, I was not able to get ahold of our contact at Delphi.

Starting with the ironic first...none of the techs at the dealerships even knew what LTFT's were.

Tech support at HD Corporate said that disconnecting the battery does NOT reset the LTFT's. However, they did not sound very confident in their answer.

Fuel Moto said that disconnecting the battery does not reset the LTFT.

Dynojet said that disconnecting the battery does not reset the LTFT, and they specifically stated that the LTFT values were stored in Non-volatile memory.

Steve believes that the LTFT's are reset if the battery is disconnected. This is how it is on most EFI systems. However, we both agreed the question is academic since the LTFT's are constantly adjusting to different conditions.

Hopefully I will hear back from our Dephi contact so we can get an absolute answer on this.

 

Thanks for putting in the time researching this. If there wasnt a way to clear the LTFT registers then it looks like going to a piggyback controller that eliminated the O2 sensors would be a crap shoot as to a canned tune. What ever was stored in the resisters would have to be accounted for in the piggyback's tune as they would no longer change with the O2 eliminators in place ???
Of course, if they are not cleared then perhaps thats why I had to tweak my controller so much after running the IED's
Please keep us posted as to what you find out. This might just be the info I need to switch to a PowerVision Every once in a while FuelMoto runs a 'trade in your old controller' deal.. I might take advantage of that

 

The premise that a richer (say 12.5:1) afr will produce an unsafe voltage for the o2 sensor is not valid.

Remember, when the bikes are in open loop, from the factory, they are running as rich as a 12.5:1 AFR and not ruining/hurting/frying the sensors. All the o2 sensors are doing is measuring the oxygen content flowing past them.

o2's can get carbon build up that can block them from a good reading, but that would have to be richer than 12.5:1, which is a normal AFR on a stock tune.

The most the XiED product line does is push the closed loop AFR to 13.8:1, and most of them are in the 14.0:1 range.

Two other things that can ruin an o2 sensor-

Leaded fuel
or
Running hot enough for long enough will burn them up.

 

I would call fuel moto and see if they have a way with the micro tuner to clear the LTFT's

If/when I get any new info, I will post it. Steve said he is going to do more research on it...our Delphi guy can take awhile to get with us...last time when we were working with HD Corp. and Delphi on the wiring for the Dyna and Softail coil relo's, he usually took 1-2 week to respond.

 

Cruising A/F should read 14.64/1, wot A/F should not be any leaner that 13.0/1 and with the gas today runing 10% Ethanol 12.8/1 would be safer for long WOT runs. The latest tuner by Cobra, Ti2000 is constantly, 80 times per second, monitoring fuel, air, timing as you ride and changes when needed to maintain the best setup for your bike and will change as you modify the engine, exhaust, air intake, etc.

 

Im running the V&H Big Radius 2-2 and the Arlen Ness Big Sucker Air cleaner and the V&H Fuel Pak I don't plan on doing any more performance mods and my set up runs really good especially just for stage 1 now if you go any deeper then a stage 1 then yeah go with a better tuner. but for a stage one go with the fuel pak