required socket size to remove rims off 09 sportster
#1
02-12-2014, 02:53 PM
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required socket size to remove rims off 09 sportster
i have a 2009 sportster iron and in process of changing the rims, however I have not been able to find out good solid info on what size sockets do i need to remove the rear and front wheels.
can someone who is 100% sure provide the size socket that is required, the information Ive got on www is both metric size and standard?????
these sockets are expensive and i have to make a trip to specialty store which is not close-by to purchase.
thanks
can someone who is 100% sure provide the size socket that is required, the information Ive got on www is both metric size and standard?????
these sockets are expensive and i have to make a trip to specialty store which is not close-by to purchase.
thanks
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02-12-2014, 02:55 PM
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02-12-2014, 03:12 PM
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#4
02-12-2014, 03:27 PM
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02-12-2014, 04:39 PM
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I'm not trying to imply you're a newbie, not enough info to know, so will just throw out some info you may or may not find useful.
Sounds like you're limited on tools if you don't have those sizes, not unusually large. For not much more (maybe even less) than one socket costs in a Home Depot or Sears, you can get an impact socket set (those are always 6 point - better for the tight ones) from Harbor Freight (harborfreight.com) that should work fine. My '04 sporty has 15/16 and 3/4" wheel nuts (best to measure yours, I don't know if Sporties are all the same for '09), and you can get those in a 1/2 socket set. The 3/4 drive set goes up to 1 1/2", coupled with their 3/4" breaker bar should break anything loose on a Harley - and an adapter socket to use your 1/2" drive rachet when they break loose. Not that expensive at HF and will be handy over years to come if you continue doing your own wrenching. If you go the HF route, and don't already have torque wrenches, for less than $40 you can get 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" sizes - maybe not the quality of Snap On, but better than the human arm. Human arms tend to overtighten; that's not good, either.
Changing the rims - do you mean new wheels? If so, that means rotors and rear pulley, and I'd never want to install those bolts without a torque wrench; it's not just tightness, you want them torqued evenly, too. Have a bolt come loose or break on a pulley and you'll wish you'd bought a torque wrench. Also, with new wheels, there's the wheel bearing issue. Harley wheel bearings are an interference fit, really tight, and those videos of pounding them out from the backside with a punch is a good way to gall the wheel bore and eventually end up with a loose fitting bearing - you'll never punch one out without cocking it a little in the bore. There are very good Harley wheel bearing tools like Pit Posse's, but they'll run $80 on the low end. I bought a new wheel last year, came with bearings installed, but I pulled a seal up and saw that they had plastic ball cages - into the garbage and got good ones with steel cages.
Locktite and anti-seize: I usually use one or the other, depending on application. Red locktite on pulley bolts, blue on the other wheel bolts. For nuts with cotter pins, I always use anti-seize, and coat the axles completely with it - really helps keep the axles from rusting to the spacers and bearing races till they have to be hammered out.
I'll probably check back on this thread tonight, if you have any more questions. I try to help, but no guarantees, I don't know everything. Good luck.
Sounds like you're limited on tools if you don't have those sizes, not unusually large. For not much more (maybe even less) than one socket costs in a Home Depot or Sears, you can get an impact socket set (those are always 6 point - better for the tight ones) from Harbor Freight (harborfreight.com) that should work fine. My '04 sporty has 15/16 and 3/4" wheel nuts (best to measure yours, I don't know if Sporties are all the same for '09), and you can get those in a 1/2 socket set. The 3/4 drive set goes up to 1 1/2", coupled with their 3/4" breaker bar should break anything loose on a Harley - and an adapter socket to use your 1/2" drive rachet when they break loose. Not that expensive at HF and will be handy over years to come if you continue doing your own wrenching. If you go the HF route, and don't already have torque wrenches, for less than $40 you can get 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" sizes - maybe not the quality of Snap On, but better than the human arm. Human arms tend to overtighten; that's not good, either.
Changing the rims - do you mean new wheels? If so, that means rotors and rear pulley, and I'd never want to install those bolts without a torque wrench; it's not just tightness, you want them torqued evenly, too. Have a bolt come loose or break on a pulley and you'll wish you'd bought a torque wrench. Also, with new wheels, there's the wheel bearing issue. Harley wheel bearings are an interference fit, really tight, and those videos of pounding them out from the backside with a punch is a good way to gall the wheel bore and eventually end up with a loose fitting bearing - you'll never punch one out without cocking it a little in the bore. There are very good Harley wheel bearing tools like Pit Posse's, but they'll run $80 on the low end. I bought a new wheel last year, came with bearings installed, but I pulled a seal up and saw that they had plastic ball cages - into the garbage and got good ones with steel cages.
Locktite and anti-seize: I usually use one or the other, depending on application. Red locktite on pulley bolts, blue on the other wheel bolts. For nuts with cotter pins, I always use anti-seize, and coat the axles completely with it - really helps keep the axles from rusting to the spacers and bearing races till they have to be hammered out.
I'll probably check back on this thread tonight, if you have any more questions. I try to help, but no guarantees, I don't know everything. Good luck.
#6
02-12-2014, 07:50 PM
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02-13-2014, 09:44 AM
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#9
03-05-2014, 01:13 PM
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I'm not trying to imply you're a newbie, not enough info to know, so will just throw out some info you may or may not find useful.
Sounds like you're limited on tools if you don't have those sizes, not unusually large. For not much more (maybe even less) than one socket costs in a Home Depot or Sears, you can get an impact socket set (those are always 6 point - better for the tight ones) from Harbor Freight (harborfreight.com) that should work fine. My '04 sporty has 15/16 and 3/4" wheel nuts (best to measure yours, I don't know if Sporties are all the same for '09), and you can get those in a 1/2 socket set. The 3/4 drive set goes up to 1 1/2", coupled with their 3/4" breaker bar should break anything loose on a Harley - and an adapter socket to use your 1/2" drive rachet when they break loose. Not that expensive at HF and will be handy over years to come if you continue doing your own wrenching. If you go the HF route, and don't already have torque wrenches, for less than $40 you can get 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" sizes - maybe not the quality of Snap On, but better than the human arm. Human arms tend to overtighten; that's not good, either.
Changing the rims - do you mean new wheels? If so, that means rotors and rear pulley, and I'd never want to install those bolts without a torque wrench; it's not just tightness, you want them torqued evenly, too. Have a bolt come loose or break on a pulley and you'll wish you'd bought a torque wrench. Also, with new wheels, there's the wheel bearing issue. Harley wheel bearings are an interference fit, really tight, and those videos of pounding them out from the backside with a punch is a good way to gall the wheel bore and eventually end up with a loose fitting bearing - you'll never punch one out without cocking it a little in the bore. There are very good Harley wheel bearing tools like Pit Posse's, but they'll run $80 on the low end. I bought a new wheel last year, came with bearings installed, but I pulled a seal up and saw that they had plastic ball cages - into the garbage and got good ones with steel cages.
Locktite and anti-seize: I usually use one or the other, depending on application. Red locktite on pulley bolts, blue on the other wheel bolts. For nuts with cotter pins, I always use anti-seize, and coat the axles completely with it - really helps keep the axles from rusting to the spacers and bearing races till they have to be hammered out.
I'll probably check back on this thread tonight, if you have any more questions. I try to help, but no guarantees, I don't know everything. Good luck.
Sounds like you're limited on tools if you don't have those sizes, not unusually large. For not much more (maybe even less) than one socket costs in a Home Depot or Sears, you can get an impact socket set (those are always 6 point - better for the tight ones) from Harbor Freight (harborfreight.com) that should work fine. My '04 sporty has 15/16 and 3/4" wheel nuts (best to measure yours, I don't know if Sporties are all the same for '09), and you can get those in a 1/2 socket set. The 3/4 drive set goes up to 1 1/2", coupled with their 3/4" breaker bar should break anything loose on a Harley - and an adapter socket to use your 1/2" drive rachet when they break loose. Not that expensive at HF and will be handy over years to come if you continue doing your own wrenching. If you go the HF route, and don't already have torque wrenches, for less than $40 you can get 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" sizes - maybe not the quality of Snap On, but better than the human arm. Human arms tend to overtighten; that's not good, either.
Changing the rims - do you mean new wheels? If so, that means rotors and rear pulley, and I'd never want to install those bolts without a torque wrench; it's not just tightness, you want them torqued evenly, too. Have a bolt come loose or break on a pulley and you'll wish you'd bought a torque wrench. Also, with new wheels, there's the wheel bearing issue. Harley wheel bearings are an interference fit, really tight, and those videos of pounding them out from the backside with a punch is a good way to gall the wheel bore and eventually end up with a loose fitting bearing - you'll never punch one out without cocking it a little in the bore. There are very good Harley wheel bearing tools like Pit Posse's, but they'll run $80 on the low end. I bought a new wheel last year, came with bearings installed, but I pulled a seal up and saw that they had plastic ball cages - into the garbage and got good ones with steel cages.
Locktite and anti-seize: I usually use one or the other, depending on application. Red locktite on pulley bolts, blue on the other wheel bolts. For nuts with cotter pins, I always use anti-seize, and coat the axles completely with it - really helps keep the axles from rusting to the spacers and bearing races till they have to be hammered out.
I'll probably check back on this thread tonight, if you have any more questions. I try to help, but no guarantees, I don't know everything. Good luck.
i have extensive amount of tools including snap on toque wrench one digital one analog... however for most part ive worked on import bikes and cars and they all use metric sizes... so that is the reason for my lack of imperial socket sizes, although i think i have a complete set upto 1".... i will use my digital fractional caliper to get the size and make a trip to specialty store to get the correct sockets to be able to remove the rims.
here in Canada finding any socket more then a 1" at home depot or lows is almost next to impossible... i have to make a trip to a specialty tool shop to get it.
#10
03-05-2014, 01:38 PM
Tourer
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front is 15/16 and rear is 36mm. Both can be had at Canadian Tire....
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ma...l#.Uxd8ROddXbk
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/36...l#.Uxd_luddXbk
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ma...l#.Uxd8ROddXbk
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/36...l#.Uxd_luddXbk
Last edited by Van Buren; 03-05-2014 at 01:49 PM.