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Clutch too heavy

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  #1  
Old 02-11-2014 | 05:17 PM
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Default Clutch too heavy

So I picked up a '99 Sportster 1200 Custom this weekend for my wife who just passed her MSF course. She is having a hard time with the clutch, as she has tiny hands. I tried doing a search but haven't really found an answer. I read something about MRC Clutch p/n HD0002 for Sportsters but didn't see where or how much it costs. Came across the Muller Power Clutch which has great reviews, but costs around $170. And read a little about the Amp EZ Pull Power clutch. I just installed a reduced effort clutch kit by HD in my Road King for $50. I was hoping they would have something like that for the Sportster. Anyone have any other suggestions or experiences with these products? I just bought the bike and have a few other items to fix also, so Im not looking to spend too much. But I don't want the wifey to give up practicing cause the clutch is too hard for her.
 
  #2  
Old 02-11-2014 | 05:25 PM
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  #3  
Old 02-11-2014 | 05:32 PM
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That's funny. I just gave her one of those yesterday.
 
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Old 02-11-2014 | 05:37 PM
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My '72 Ironhead had a clutch from Hell. You had to be deliberate. Ms B and nobody else wanted to even ride it! Good, suits me just fine!
 
  #5  
Old 02-11-2014 | 05:45 PM
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Try a new Harley cable with the teflon liner and make sure the plastic sleeve in the lever is still good. That just might make a world of difference.
 
  #6  
Old 02-11-2014 | 06:14 PM
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I think you might be able to get HD levers that are closer to the handgrip. My '91 has levers that are fairly straight, so long reach. They used to have some accessory levers for shorter reach. Wasn't enough an issue for the $$$. I think they may have incorporated these levers into later models.

Does she hold the clutch in at stops? Is it fatigue? Or just overcoming the stiffness of the clutch itself? Did someone install a stiffer diaphragm spring in the clutch pack? I usually put bike in neutral at stops and take the pressure off my hands. Not sure what the MSF course teaches, and others have their methods.

Agree with the hand squeezer device, strengthen those hand muscles.

She can do it!

John
 
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Old 02-11-2014 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by John Harper
I think you might be able to get HD levers that are closer to the handgrip. My '91 has levers that are fairly straight, so long reach. They used to have some accessory levers for shorter reach. Wasn't enough an issue for the $$$. I think they may have incorporated these levers into later models. Does she hold the clutch in at stops? Is it fatigue? Or just overcoming the stiffness of the clutch itself? Did someone install a stiffer diaphragm spring in the clutch pack? I usually put bike in neutral at stops and take the pressure off my hands. Not sure what the MSF course teaches, and others have their methods. Agree with the hand squeezer device, strengthen those hand muscles. She can do it! John
She has trouble pulling it in. They teach them in class to always stay in gear, clutch pulled, so to be able to make evasive maneuvers in an emergency.
 
  #8  
Old 02-12-2014 | 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Freedomrider13
She has trouble pulling it in. They teach them in class to always stay in gear, clutch pulled, so to be able to make evasive maneuvers in an emergency.
I've never understood that! Doesn't make sense to me. I got hit up the rear many years ago, looking to check traffic at a quiet junction. The bike was in gear and the impact wrenched the bars out of my hands. We were propelled across the road into a wall, the engine willing us on, causing a lot more damage than the first hit.

However there are a number of things you can consider. On my Glide I have a beefed up clutch and have looked into reducing lever effort. The best device I am told (although I have never used one) is the AMP EZ-Pull Clutch Assist. It only changes lever effort, doesn't affect things like the point the clutch bites.

What I currently have for my Glide, although yet to install it, is an AIM Variable Pressure Clutch. This uses a less strong spring, but centrifugal weights to compensate. Clutch action at low engine speeds is low, increasing at higher engine speeds.

There are other devices out there that are cheaper, but they can also mess up adjustment. Your challenge is which one to go for! Cheap may work, but if not then you will have extra expense.
 

Last edited by grbrown; 02-19-2014 at 05:43 AM. Reason: Spelling!
  #9  
Old 02-12-2014 | 09:29 AM
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I got rear ended at a traffic light, being in neutral, I didn't have to worry about the bike taking off on me. Luckily it was at low speed, did not even get knocked down.

Sitting behind other vehicles at a light does not give you much chance for evasive maneuvering anyway. Have to disagree with the MSF on this one.

John
 
  #10  
Old 02-12-2014 | 11:24 AM
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Try replacing that clutch cable first with a Teflon lined one. Every sportster I've owned older than a 2004 has had a stiff clutch. The cables don't get lubed regularly so the liner starts sticking to the cable itself. Worth a shot.
 



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