Ok finally found what its called, handlebar grip switch. Pricey but blend nice with stock controls. Would like one on front brake side that is a blank too, but so far nothing.

 

I don't remember where I got it, but I know I only paid about 10 bucks for it. I googled it, and see JPCycles wants 66. That is pricey. I think the difference with mine is that it's all plastic, that one appears to be metal. May be plastic, but it's worked fine for two years.

 

Well sadly I'm putting "Thumper" to bed for the winter.

 

Do you have the Ebay link ? I'm searching for them but comes up with all kind of stuff except that one.

 

It took more time to prepare and get the parts. The entire job of replacing the spring plate (grenade) AND replacing the clutch bearing took just a few leisurely hours one afternoon. I went slow (measure twice/cut once) on purpose. The spring plate job takes longer because the primary cover has to be removed and the replacement friction plates (if new) should soak for a while before installing. Note that you HAVE to have the clutch spring (diaphragm plate) removal tool to save time and sanity

Just replacing the clutch cable release bearing doesn't take nearly as long because only the derby cover has to be removed. Here are the separate instructions for it, along with the name of the bearing from Amazon:Sportster Clutch Throw Out Bearing Replacement



This can be done now or at any time the clutch ramp assembly has been removed.



With motorcycle sitting level on the Jack:

1. Raise the motorcycle on the jack. (If the primary oil has not been drained, it will spill out unless the bike is level.)

2. Remove the two clamps that hold the clutch cable to the frame. Remove the zip-ties and slide off the boot. Loosen the clutch cable all the way.

Remove the DERBY COVER:

1. Loosen the Derby Cover screws head bit in a “Star-Pattern”. Hold the Derby Cover in place while removing the last screw so the spring holding the clutch adjuster locknut doesn’t fly out.

2. Remove the clutch adjuster locknut. With a thin shaft, flat blade screwdriver, turn the clutch adjuster screw CW until you can manually unscrew the locknut and remove it from the screwdriver shaft.

3. Remove the ramp assembly from the clutch cable end and do not let loose of the clutch cable end until you have removed it from the clutch cable or it will fall into the primary and disappear. Leave the clutch cable attached to the primary cover.





Replace the THROW OUT BEARING:

1. Remove the snap ring which holds the release plate (holder/retainer) in place.

2. Remove the release plate.

3. Remove the retaining ring/circlip which holds the threaded adjuster screw in place in the release plate.

4. Remove the stock radial throw out bearing from the release plate by PRESSING it out. (See notes below.)

5. The new *** 7200B angular throw out bearing goes into the release plate with the wide-OUTER race going in first. The threaded adjuster screw goes in with the mushroom end on the back side of where you push the bearing into. This makes the base/mushroom end with a lip to be in contact with the wide-INNER race. The bearing must be PRESS-FIT into position inside the release plate. (See notes below.)



Once the adjuster screw is inserted through the bearing with the threads facing out of the other side of the release plate, install the small retaining/circlip that holds the adjuster screw in place.

The wide-outer and the narrow-inner races are on the same side. (This is the numbers side.)*

The narrow-outer and the wide-inner are on the same side.



Note:

· To PRESS OUT the old throw out bearing from the release plate, you will need an 18mm socket and a 32mm socket with two small boards and a bench vice.

· To PRESS IN the new bearing into the release plate you will need only the 32mm socket and two small boards with a bench vice. Be careful not to press too far. You can tap the final distance with a soft hammer and the 32mm socket.



*There are numbers on the stock bearing outer race which are on the opposite side from the new bearing. Disregard these numbers because they will confuse you.

 

No, never found them on ebay or amazon. Places like JP Cycles. Theirs are $66 that is the cheapest I found. I would like one with the single switch, and one with a solid top as a blank for the right side, as I would incorporate 3 small micro switches into it. But NO ONE has them in blank.

 

I'll take a look at that site, thanks !

 

Got out for an 80 mile ride today, even got to dodge buffalo in Custer State Park. Decided that I needed to put the forward controls back on the bike and either buy or make a drivers backrest. Got the forwards back on....easier the second time.

Now to start looking at how/where to mount the backrest since I am using a 100 Anniversary two up seat.

 

Took my wife out to Pozo Saloon, for a burger and a bluegrass festival. Great burger and good music, and good company.



Just arrived. My wife took the pic.

Getting ready to head out. Mine is down by the suburban.

 

Lets see if this will post. The wife took a short video of the festival. This is behind the saloon.

Nope too large.