Hey if its no huge deal, I would like those notes as well. With 18k on mine I figure it is coming soon.

 

They add fuel stabilizer as part of the package, though I'm tempted to add in some Seafoam of my own anyway. Dunno what they use. It is expressly requested that I top off the tank before drop-off. Closest place listed for ethanol-free gas is Psi Proformance, but that doesn't seem like a place I can just stop by and fill up. So Korn Krud and Seafoam it is. :P

 

I'll go ahead and "cut and paste" them here. They're long, so you may want to "cut and paste them" onto a separate document that you can print out and make notes on.

Here goes:

Sportster Clutch Spring Plate (Grenade Plate) Replacement



Replacement Parts:

James Primary Gasket Kit - 34955-04-K

Amsoil 20W/50 V-Twin Motorcycle Oil – 32 oz. (1 quart)

Steel (drive) plates (2) – Barnett Steel Plate - 401-30-063012

Fiber (friction) plate (1) – Alto Friction Disc - 095730-220 (Let soak in primary oil for at least 20 minutes.)

*** 7200B TVP Angular Contact Bearing



Tools:

Motorcycle jack

Drain pan

Clean rags

Rubber mallet to tap the primary cover after the screws are removed

Sharpie marker

Picks and small diameter magnet with a telescopic handle

Cups and trays to hold screws

Clutch spring compression tool

Blue Loctite

Hylomar gasket sealant

Battery powered screwdriver

Flat blade screwdriver – thin shaft for removing clutch adjuster locknut

1/2” open end wrench – for cable nuts (2)

9/16” open end wrench for cable lock nut and clutch spring compression tool shaft

5/32” Allen head bit for primary chain inspection plate

5/16” Allen head bit for foot pegs

5/8” open end wrench for primary oil drain bolt

7/8” wrench for lock nut on chain adjuster bolt

1/4” Allen head bit for chain adjuster bolt and foot pegs

T27 Torx bit – for Derby cover

3/16” Allen Head bit for primary cover screws

Torque wrench (1/4” drive)

Torque wrench (1/2” drive)

Cardboard template of primary cover gasket with screw holes



With motorcycle leaning on the Jiffy Stand:

1. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature.

2. Place drain pan underneath the primary drive drain bolt.

3. Remove the primary chain inspection plate screws to let air in as oil drains. Replace the O-rings and set aside along with a new gasket for installation after the new oil is installed.

4. Open the magnetic drain bolt (5/8” head) to let the oil drain into the drain pan. Wipe the fines off, clean the threads, replace the O-ring and apply Hylomar gasket sealant to the O-ring and threads.

5. Straddle the motorcycle and hold it level to drain the rest of the oil.

6. Lean the motorcycle on the jiffy stand.

7. Replace the drain bolt. Torque to 20 ft-lbs.



With motorcycle sitting level on the Jack:

1. Raise the motorcycle on the jack.

2. Remove the windshield.

3. Remove the two clamps that hold the clutch cable to the frame. Remove the zip-ties and slide off the boot. Loosen the clutch cable all the way.

4. Remove the left side foot peg bracket.

5. Loosen the primary chain adjuster bolt all the way.

6. Mark the position of the gear shift lever and remove it. Remove the rubber gear shift lever shaft seal, a new one will be installed later.



Remove the DERBY COVER:

1. Loosen the Derby Cover screws head bit in a “Star-Pattern”. Hold the Derby Cover in place while removing the last screw so the spring holding the clutch adjuster locknut doesn’t fly out.

2. Remove the clutch adjuster locknut. With a thin shaft, flat blade screwdriver, turn the clutch adjuster screw CW until you can manually unscrew the locknut and remove it from the screwdriver shaft.

3. Remove the ramp assembly from the clutch cable end and do not let loose of the clutch cable end until you have removed it from the clutch cable or it will fall into the primary and disappear. Leave the clutch cable attached to the primary cover.



Remove the PRIMARY COVER:

1. Using the new primary gasket, make a cardboard template with holes numbered for sequence of torqueing when replacing the screws afterwards. Use this template for storing the screws temporarily. (See the Blue Bible for proper order of removing, replacing and torqueing – p. 6-6). With a battery powered screwdriver, remove the screws in proper order and insert them into the cardboard template. (Note that all of these screws are the same length.)

2. Remove the rubber seal on the shifter shaft.

3. Set the primary cover aside with the clutch cable still attached. (You can use the drain pan for supporting this.) Place some rags underneath the primary cover before removing it, to catch any remaining drips.

4. Remove the rubber oil seal in the hole for the shifter shaft.



Replace the CLUTCH PLATES:

1. Install clutch spring compressor tool and shaft. Compress the spring and use a small screwdriver to remove the snap-ring, then the L-shape ring. The L-shape ring will stay around the shaft.

2. Remove the clutch spring compressor tool and L-shape ring from the shaft which is still attached to the adjuster screw. Disassemble the clutch spring compressor tool and the L-shape ring will fall out. Remove the clutch spring from the compression plate. Set the clutch spring aside.

5. With the shaft still attached to the adjuster screw, hold the shaft and pull out the compression plate. (The pack of rings may come as a unit due to the oil’s suction between the plates. If not, use a small magnet.) Remove the spring plate (grenade) from the middle of the plates and insert the 3 replacement plates in its place (1 steel-1 friction-1 steel). (These 3 replacement plates have been soaking in primary oil, so wipe them off.) The pattern is F – S – F – S – F – S – F – S – F – S – F – S – F – S – F – S – F.

6. Reattach the clutch spring compressor tool and shaft onto the pressure plate.

7. Hold the clutch diaphragm spring in place (it can still come out) along with the L-shape ring and snap-ring around the shaft while installing the clutch spring compressor tool onto the shaft. Compress the spring and install the L-shape ring and snap-ring.

8. Remove the clutch spring compressor tool and shaft from the adjuster screw.



Replace the THROW OUT BEARING (Optional):

This can be done now or at any time the clutch ramp assembly has been removed.

1. Remove the snap ring which holds the release plate (holder/retainer) in place.

2. Remove the release plate.

3. Remove the retaining ring/circlip which holds the threaded adjuster screw in place.

4. Remove the old stock throw out bearing from the release plate by PRESSING it out. (See notes below.)

5. The new *** 7200B angular throw out bearing goes into the release plate with the wide-OUTER race going in first. The threaded adjuster screw goes in with the mushroom end on the back side of where you push the bearing into. This makes the base (mushroom) end with a lip to be in contact with the wide-INNER race. The bearing must be PRESS-FIT into position inside the release plate. (See note below.)



Once the adjuster screw is inserted through the bearing with the threads facing out of the other side of the release plate, install the small retaining/circlip that holds the adjuster screw in place.

The wide-outer and the narrow-inner races are on the same side. (This is the numbers side.)

The narrow-outer and the wide-inner are on the same side. (This side has no numbers.)



Note:

· To PRESS OUT the old throw out bearing from the release plate, you will need an 18mm socket and a 32mm socket with two small boards and a bench vice.

· To PRESS IN the new bearing into the release plate, will need only the 32mm socket and two small boards with a bench vice. Be careful not to press too far. You can press most of the way and then tap the final distance with a soft hammer and the 32mm socket.



Install the PRIMARY COVER:

1. Clean off the primary cover gasket area.

2. Make sure the two primary cover alignment dowels are still in place. Pay attention to the chain adjuster and gasket bottom while installing the primary cover because they will catch the bottom of it.

3. Using the cardboard template, install all of the primary screws by hand and snug them up with the battery powered screwdriver. After they are all installed, remove each one with the battery powered screwdriver, apply Blue Loctite to the threads and reinstall it up with the battery powered screwdriver. Now, snug each one up IN PROPER ORDER with a ratchet wrench. Finally, torque each one IN PROPER ORDER to 110 in-lbs.

4. Install a new rubber seal on the gear shift lever shaft and torque the pinch bolt to 20 ft-lbs.



Adjusting the CLUTCH:

1. Check to make sure the clutch cable is completely collapsed and the clutch lever is all the way out. Attach the cable holder to the end of the cable and to the clutch ramp assembly. Rotate the clutch ramp assembly mechanism upright and fit it into the slot in the clutch adjuster screw. Replace the adjuster nut by sliding it onto a long flat screwdriver and inserting the screwdriver into the adjuster screw to hold it still while screwing the adjuster nut onto it. Once the adjuster locknut is all the way in its slot in the clutch ramp assembly and can’t move, turn the adjuster screw CCW to extend it outward against the adjuster plate.

2. With the flat blade screwdriver, turn the adjuster screw CCW (back it out) until it barely touches and then turn it CW (back in) one-quarter turn. Do this a few times to be sure.

3. Replace the adjuster locking piece with its spring. If the “flats” don’t line up exactly, err to the “loose” side (CW) to allow for heat expansion.



Install the DERBY COVER:

1. Install a new O-ring on the primary cover with Hylomar gasket sealant on the back to make it stick, before replacing the Derby Cover. Install each screw by hand and snug up lightly with a battery powered screwdriver. Now, go back and one-at-a-time, remove each one, apply Blue Loctite and reinstall with a battery powered screwdriver. Snug each one up in a “Star-Pattern” in the same pattern with a socket wrench. Finally, torque them in the same pattern to 90-105 in-lbs. or 11 Nm.



Adjusting the CLUTCH CABLE:

1. When finished adjusting the clutch plate, tighten the clutch cables so there is 3mm of play in the lever with the handlebar at center. (Use a nickel in the gap at the lever’s tightest point when moving the handlebar.)

2. Tighten the jam nut.

3. Replace the boot and the two zip-ties.

4. Replace the two cable clamps.

5. Replace the windshield.



Adjusting the PRIMARY CHAIN:

1. Adjust the primary chain tension (3/8” – 1/2” gap cold.) Use a 1/2” open end wrench as a reference tool. Recheck after tightening the lock nut.

2. Fill the primary oil through the primary chain inspection plate with one quart (32 oz.) of oil.

3. Replace the primary chain inspection plate with new gasket and new O-rings. Torque to 6.0 Nm.

4. Hold the bolt in position and tighten the locknut. Recheck the chain tension.

5. Reinstall the foot peg bracket bolts with anti-seize. Torque to 50 ft-lbs.

Following are the details on the clutch throw-out bearing:

Sportster Clutch Throw Out Bearing Replacement



This can be done now or at any time the clutch ramp assembly has been removed.



With motorcycle sitting level on the Jack:

1. Raise the motorcycle on the jack. (If the primary oil has not been drained, it will spill out unless the bike is level.)

2. Remove the two clamps that hold the clutch cable to the frame. Remove the zip-ties and slide off the boot. Loosen the clutch cable all the way.





Remove the DERBY COVER:

1. Loosen the Derby Cover screws head bit in a “Star-Pattern”. Hold the Derby Cover in place while removing the last screw so the spring holding the clutch adjuster locknut doesn’t fly out.

2. Remove the clutch adjuster locknut. With a thin shaft, flat blade screwdriver, turn the clutch adjuster screw CW until you can manually unscrew the locknut and remove it from the screwdriver shaft.

3. Remove the ramp assembly from the clutch cable end and do not let loose of the clutch cable end until you have removed it from the clutch cable or it will fall into the primary and disappear. Leave the clutch cable attached to the primary cover.





Replace the THROW OUT BEARING:

1. Remove the snap ring which holds the release plate (holder/retainer) in place.

2. Remove the release plate.

3. Remove the retaining ring/circlip which holds the threaded adjuster screw in place in the release plate.

4. Remove the stock radial throw out bearing from the release plate by PRESSING it out. (See notes below.)

5. The new *** 7200B angular throw out bearing goes into the release plate with the wide-OUTER race going in first. The threaded adjuster screw goes in with the mushroom end on the back side of where you push the bearing into. This makes the base/mushroom end with a lip to be in contact with the wide-INNER race. The bearing must be PRESS-FIT into position inside the release plate. (See notes below.)



Once the adjuster screw is inserted through the bearing with the threads facing out of the other side of the release plate, install the small retaining/circlip that holds the adjuster screw in place.

The wide-outer and the narrow-inner races are on the same side. (This is the numbers side.)*

The narrow-outer and the wide-inner are on the same side.



Note:

· To PRESS OUT the old throw out bearing from the release plate, you will need an 18mm socket and a 32mm socket with two small boards and a bench vice.

· To PRESS IN the new bearing into the release plate you will need only the 32mm socket and two small boards with a bench vice. Be careful not to press too far. You can tap the final distance with a soft hammer and the 32mm socket.



*There are numbers on the stock bearing outer race which are on the opposite side from the new bearing. Disregard these numbers because they will confuse you.



Hope this helps.

 

It destroyed the basket and the hub.

 

LOL well we actually have not met but I do not like beer or coffee. Both are too bitter for my taste. Used to drink coffee with my dad when deer hunting but only to warm up. Never liked it then either.

 

You're not the only one. Beer, when I do drink it the first one just kills the taste buds and the rest are about like drinking water, thank God.

Coffee, ground coffee smells great, add water and it's nasty. I don't care how much sugar or creamer you put in it, it's still bitter to me. Both my parents drank it like it was water, all day long. None of us kids, myself or my two sisters drink the stuff.

 

I love beer, but generally loathe IPAs. Talk about bitter, and there's usually like ten(thousand) IPAs to one dark beer, and I prefer the darker stuff. I usually prefer wine, aged tequila, brandy, or scotch, though. NONE of which I will drink if I'm planning on going for a ride. I'm concerned enough about my balance and response time when I'm stone cold sober.

Coffee is lifeblood, though. I don't generally have it black, just with whole milk. I don't understand how people could finish college without it.

 

Boy, I thought I was going to be attacked by the Harley forum for not drinking "manly" drinks but I find out that I'm kind of mid-stream.

My coffee has to be fresh and not too strong, not too weak and not flavored with pumpkin, vanilla or the other stuff that my wife and daughter like. I like it with milk and a little sweetener. The only coffee I could ever drink black was Bustelo cafe cubano, and one demi-tasse size cup would wire me enough to stay awake for days. If it wasn't for coffee,I would never have made it through college. Now it is part of my migraine medicine: caffeine and Advil immediately at the onset.

There was a time when I drank hard liquor but that was limited to scotch - good scotch on the rocks and usually just one or two - and that stopped over 40 years ago. I'm not sure why, just don't like the flavor anymore.

Wine gives me a migraine. Period.

I always drank the brand of beer that I liked or I wouldn't drink it. I don't drink that much or that often, and it has to be good. I've never drunk it for the alcohol content. If they could invent a good non-alcohol beer, I would buy it but fermenting is what gives it the flavor. A lot of my friends say that "free beer" is the best brand. Nope. I spend less on beer in a year than most of my friends spend on soft drinks or Starbucks coffee in a week. I always knew my limit on alcohol, even in college.

I never, ever drink and drive, or drink while I play drums. I played in a garage band in the 60's and moved on to play jazz as a moonlight job (still do) and even one beer would affect my time. My drumming style is like my motorcycle riding style, smooth and mellow. My V-twin and my drums always have a rhythm that keeps me in my happy place.

I'm pretty sure the stereotypical motorcycle gang would not even consider me as a potential member. OK, I confess. I went through puberty on a Honda.

 

I love my Roadster too , excellent choice . A definite bench mark in Sportster development . After that HD just seem to have got confused .

 

Heh, no judgement from me, boomer. I like a variety of drinks, but I'm picky about quality. I do find it odd that I prefer 1800 Anejo to most other more expensive tequilas that I've tried so far. When I do drink harder alcohol, I drink it neat, and all of it is more about the flavor than getting drunk. But then, I didn't start drinking at all until well into my 20's. Never cared for trends or binge drinking. I tell you, though: a good pork taco with pepper sauce and an imperial stout is a magnificent flavor combo. Also a large part of why I'm not skinny. :P

And I'm hesitant to admit it here, but I'm not specifically a Harley devotee. I actually have mixed feelings about it. On one hand, I'd have been perfectly happy with a Honda as long as I was able to finally get on two wheels. If I had the cash to buy new bikes, I'd be more inclined toward one of those new Rebels and/or an Indian. I've never gravitated to "what everyone else has". I still feel like an imposter walking into a Harley dealer, though less so after having had my wallet savaged for the tire service. I think people who ride without full gear are nuts, and most Harley riders here in PA don't bother with helmets or jackets at all. I don't have tattoos (though my wife is covered, and I do like them). Despite the long hair, beard, and gut, I hardly come close to the image of "badass biker" that one generally associates with the brand. So yeah, I would never disparage anyone for having ridden a Honda. If you get out there and ride, that's what matters, IMO.

On the flip side, I have certainly benefited from and been thankful for the Harley community, particularly here in this forum. The wealth of info and available mods and parts seems to eclipse what's available for anything else. Also, the reactions that I get from onlookers while on a Harley certainly does seem to be different from what I would expect while riding anything else. I feel a little awkward about it, but it is nice when random bystanders give you the thumbs up, or cars wave you through an intersection. Would anyone get that kind of reaction on a Honda? Probably not.