I measured the end cap last night and was exactly 35mm but 1 3/8 is awful close. There is not that much torque on those end caps, and since you say I will need a 1 3/8 anyway (possibly) I will just go that route.
The threads inside the cap are metric which means they are very fine, unlike standard or SAE threads and are easy to strip if you start them in wrong. They are easy to get out but watch out for them flying through the air as the coil spring inside is released. Before inserting the caps after you change the fork oil, place the cap inside the fork to see how deep it has to go before it actually engages the thread. If memory serves me, it is about 1/4" deep. I believe this is to force you to have the threads exactly vertical so they start correctly and don't cross-thread.
I had such a hard time getting mine back in that I replaced them with these so that I can replace the fluid without having to remove the springs: https://www.jpcycles.com/product/230...tube-top-plugs
Hope this helps.
Any issue with leaks with those caps? How long have you used them? Seems like an idea worth investigating.
It seems like H-D likes to take things away from newer models just to frustrate the owners. I had to fabricate a replacement (NOS) brake pedal rod so that I could adjust it. It originally forced me to point my toe downward at a 45-degree angle to apply the rear brake, and it came from the factory that way. Now I see that they removed the drain screw on the newer models' forks. I don't know if it's to pinch pennies at the factory or just because they are sadists. Anyway, back to the point at hand, these replacement caps from J&P Cycles are exactly the same high quality as the originals, as are the threads and o-rings. When I found out how hard it is to install the OEM caps, I went ahead and bought these and I am very happy that I did. Now I don't have to mess with the coil springs at all unless I have to replace the seals.
As far as replacing the fork oil in the newer forks that don't have the drain screw, I would think that you could insert a tube and suction the old fluid out. Be sure to measure how much came out and replace the same. Mine was about 10 oz. per fork. The fluid is light and thin, so it should be an easy job.
If anyone is interested, I can post the steps I took. I always right down the tools, parts and steps after doing a job to make the job easier the next time I do it. It's sort of like the old carpenter's rule: Measure twice, cut once.
Ok after years of tellin ppl to get longer damper rods..here is my poor man's suspension mod that I'm doing on my sporty (yea cos parts are expensive n hard to come by where I live. This cost me $3 bucks) so u gotta do what u gotta do.
Any input from suspension experts about these softer top out springs becoming an issue in the long run is appreciated. (Also i am aware of the added unsprung weight, so no debate needed) thanks. Wonder if the extra oil will be an issue as well..hmm
Btw while I'm at the machine shop making the Aluminum spacers, i machined some stainless steel breather bolts as well ($2)
Good job, I'm curious about your findings after install and testing.
About the breathers, I'm not a fan of this type because it makes a mess on your engine when the crap comes out.
Thank you, jus concerned about the top out spring on the rebound..with only 1/2 inch of added travel not expecting much..but the 2' inch aluminium spacer will give me some ground clearance and complement the taller rear shocks. Plus the added trail should help a little with the stability.
Agree with you on the breather's when they drool..I'm going for a new air cleaner, not finalised on one yet..but thought, might as well have these on hand now than later.
That is good alternative for external breathers, I did a few of them but I always used a tubing and catch can, will try this in future when having such a big box on it.
09-18-2019, 11:13 AM
