What did you do to Your Sportster Today?
#8971
My neighbor who is a professional machinist came over to show me the progress he's made on making a new brake pedal ADJUSTABLE rod and it is fantastic. He is almost finished.
The brake pedal height on my mid-control 2005 Sportster XL883 is too low which forces me to move my right hip slightly forward while I push way down with my right toe. (What was Harley thinking when they redesigned this rod by removing the adjuster? They obviously were too busy counting pennies saved vs. the safety and happiness of the customer.) I bought a NOS brake pedal rod, wrote down the re-design steps from the video from DELBOY'S GARAGE and gave both to my neighbor. Machining the parts was the easy part. Finding the stainless steel LEFT-HAND threaded parts was the hard part.
Here are the steps:
· Cut the 3/8” diameter rod in half
· Each cut end must have threads that are 3/8”-16 thread size. But one end has to be right-hand threaded and the other end left-hand threaded.
· A stainless steel center section has to be made with a 3/8” inside diameter and internal threads on each end that are 3/8”-16 thread size, right-hand threads on one end and left-hand threads on the other to match the external threads on the rod.
· Each end of the center section needs a stainless steel “jam nut” matching the threads of that end.
· The middle of the center section needs a stainless steel “shrink-fit” hex nut on the outside for a wrench to grab and turn this section to adjust the rod length. (DelBoy suggested drilling a hole for a small rod to insert.)
I'll let you know how it turns out.
The brake pedal height on my mid-control 2005 Sportster XL883 is too low which forces me to move my right hip slightly forward while I push way down with my right toe. (What was Harley thinking when they redesigned this rod by removing the adjuster? They obviously were too busy counting pennies saved vs. the safety and happiness of the customer.) I bought a NOS brake pedal rod, wrote down the re-design steps from the video from DELBOY'S GARAGE and gave both to my neighbor. Machining the parts was the easy part. Finding the stainless steel LEFT-HAND threaded parts was the hard part.
Here are the steps:
· Cut the 3/8” diameter rod in half
· Each cut end must have threads that are 3/8”-16 thread size. But one end has to be right-hand threaded and the other end left-hand threaded.
· A stainless steel center section has to be made with a 3/8” inside diameter and internal threads on each end that are 3/8”-16 thread size, right-hand threads on one end and left-hand threads on the other to match the external threads on the rod.
· Each end of the center section needs a stainless steel “jam nut” matching the threads of that end.
· The middle of the center section needs a stainless steel “shrink-fit” hex nut on the outside for a wrench to grab and turn this section to adjust the rod length. (DelBoy suggested drilling a hole for a small rod to insert.)
I'll let you know how it turns out.
#8972
Just finished my 10,000 mile service, well everything other than the oil/filter/primary lube part of it. I'll get to that stuff next week. If, God forbid something was to happen I hope Harley won't ding me for being 1,200 miles over 10,000. I rolled over 10,000 on Christmas Eve, and wasn't going to do the service in the dead of winter...
#8973
#8974
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
Posts: 17,727
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Congratulations!
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priell3 (04-29-2019)
#8975
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
Posts: 17,727
Received 4,193 Likes
on
2,440 Posts
Wow, sorry for that, but glad you're still here!
The following users liked this post:
kgballer2442 (04-29-2019)
#8977
Your scoot looks toasted, but what were the human damages?
#8978
I only have road rash on my knee. Thankfully I was wearing a leather jacket and full face helmet. The side of the helmet was all messed up though.
#8979
Got home from work and thought I'd check to see if there was any seepage from the primary drain plug since I changed the lube yesterday. Found the o-ring had been chewed up so I had to drain it, replace the o-ring. It hadn't chewed clear thru the o-ring, but better safe than sorry... To be safe, I strained the fluid thru a paint filter in case anything had gotten in it when it drained out before pouring it back in.
Pulled the trigger on a K&P oil filter too. Holding off changing the oil/filter until it gets here.
Pulled the trigger on a K&P oil filter too. Holding off changing the oil/filter until it gets here.
#8980