For all gaskets you need derby cover gasket, drain plug o-ring and primary chain inspection cover gasket. You need 1qt of H D Formula+ oil.

I would go to a dealer as the gaskets are not a lot of money and will ensure you get the right parts that will fit.

You tell them you are doing the transmission oil change and they will make sure you get everything you need.

Whilst you have the bike in a position to work on it, now is a good time to check the primary chain tension hence the inspection cover gasket.

It is worth putting new gaskets on as you will know they are good. Nothing worse than taking stuff apart and not being able to put it back together.

The next time you do the oil change you might decide not to get the gaskets but that is up to you.

From the FSM (it doesn't even call for new gaskets but in this first go I would change them):

Changing Lubricant
1. Ride motorcycle until engine is warmed up to normal
operating temperature.
2. When the engine reaches normal operating temperature,
turn the engine off and position motorcycle on jiffy stand.
This will allow the chaincase lubricant to drain out of
transmission.
3. Remove maxi-fuse..
4. Position a suitable container under
transmission drain plug.
5. The drain plug is located under the clutch, on the underside
of the chaincase. Remove drain plug and drain lubricant.
6. Position the motorcycle STRAIGHT UP and LEVEL. This
allows additional fluid to be drained from clutch compartment.
7. Remove foreign material from magnetic drain plug. Install
drain plug and tighten to 14-30 ft-lbs (19.0-40.7 Nm).
8. Remove screws with washers from clutch
inspection cover. Remove clutch inspection cover from
primary cover. Exercise caution to avoid damaging or
dislodging quad-ring in primary cover.
NOTE
The filler access is the clutch inspection cover.
9. Add 32 fluid ounces (946 milliliters) of GENUINE Harley-
Davidson FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY
CHAINCASE LUBRICANT (Part No. 98851-05 quart)
through clutch inspection cover opening.
10. Install clutch inspection cover on primary cover. Tighten
screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2
Nm).
11. Install maxi-fuse.
12. Start engine. Check for any lubricant leaks.
13. Turn engine off.

Primary chain adjustment:
1. Unplug Maxi-Fuse.
2. Remove two hex socket screws securing primary chain
inspection cover.
3. Rotate sprockets to find tightest point on primary chain.
4. Loosen lock nut. Using a 1/4-inch allen wrench, turn
chain adjuster screw clockwise (inward) to reduce free
play or counterclockwise (outward) to increase free play.
Vertical free play must fall within the limits specified

COLD engine 3/8" to 1/2"
HOT engine 1/4" to 3/8"

NOTE
If vertical free play cannot be set within the limits specified in
Table 1-11, then primary chain and/or chain adjuster are worn
beyond adjustment limits. Replace parts as necessary.
5. When tension is set correctly, hold chain
adjusting screw with allen wrench and tighten lock nut
to 20-25 ft-lbs (27.1-33.9 Nm).
6. Install primary chain inspection cover. Tighten hex
socket screws to 84-120 in-lbs (9.5-13.6 Nm).
7. Plug in Maxi-Fuse.

 

How does that 2-1 stack up to performance as apposed to Duel pipe set up?

Thz Wiz 🍻

 

Harleys Formula + Would be the last product I’d use in a sporty’s primary.

I used that soup for 4000 miles and had noting but rough gear changes “ Which I thought was the norm “

Swapped over to Mobil 1 V- Twin 20W/50 in both holes And now my trans is butter smooth, Clutch take up, friction point and feel is the same, But the shifting is different as chalk and cheese.

Just my experience, 2017 1200 Custom.

Wiz 🍻

 

Picked up this 07 1200 about a week ago. Took the minis off and put some drag bars on. Repainted the bar controls and mirror. Also put a 1.5” tank lift on. Ignition and key relocation should be in this week. So wire tuck to come soon 😀

 

I changed the intake and installed a new fuel moto tune with the power vision at the same time that I installed the new exhaust, so comparing just exhaust is tough.

I will say that the bike has way more power than I had expected with the change. Very Happy with it now! Sounds great at idle, but really barks when I get on it.

 

I'm going to have to agree with you on this one.
I used HD + (dino oil) in my bike because I had switched to an Energy 1 clutch, and they don't recommend synthetic. My trans wouldn't go into first gear when cold, shifting gears felt like I was damaging stuff, all the adjustment in the world didn't help. I got tired of it, and switched to Mobil 1 75W-90 synthetic gear lube after reading that someone had been using that with their Energy 1 clutch just fine.
It's been a LOT better since the switch.

 

I cursed mine as I usually do. Wish I had my old '67 Shovelhead back!

 

I rode 49 miles today and got home just before it started to rain. I passed 5,000 on the odometer.

 

I finally put my 13" RK air shocks on the back. Up from 12" stock on this 1200L. Took it for a test ride and see a noticeable difference. Original shocks were either garbage or worn out, or both. Before if I was the least bit aggressive in a turn, and hit a bump, it would bounce from the bump, and then rebound and try to launch me and cause the rear end to wiggle. Not fun.

The rebound issue is gone completely. Not a super soft ride, but less harsh than stock, and I had zero preload on stock shocks. When I bought the bike the PO had 2 clicks up on preload and those same bumps would leave me with a headache, it jarred me so hard. Also it seems to point itself into the corners now. Handles my windy road very well. Did not make a freeway run to see if it gets twitchy at speed.

I had to add 3 washers to shim it away from belt guard. I tried 2 but the rubber on the shock was still touching, so to prevent wear, I erred on the side of caution. A plus is with my bags extended out slightly more than normal, with my Quick Release brackets, there is still plenty of room in the cutout area.

It does lean slightly more on the jiffy stand, but not enough to worry me. Now when I upgrade the front forks with longer damper tubes and progressive springs, I will probably have to put a longer stand on.

 

Well, as you found out, with the front still at stock height and the rear raised, the bike steers quicker and more accurately. So if you like it that way, you might want to rethink about raising the front. Just food for thought...