What did you do to Your Sportster Today?
#6812
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
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you are right. Id just rather put that 2k in tangible mods. The minute i change something, all that cash is out the window and i have to go back and have it retuned. I may still do it later on if i come off the grenades. I just cant part with them....
i think he could probably get 125/125 out of the dyna and smooth out the 1-4k range. I don't think i will be messing with that bike much. It's just missing something. .. not sure what "it" is. Whatever "it" is in the sportster though.
i think he could probably get 125/125 out of the dyna and smooth out the 1-4k range. I don't think i will be messing with that bike much. It's just missing something. .. not sure what "it" is. Whatever "it" is in the sportster though.
#6813
Id just rather put that 2k in tangible mods.
So I've noticed others have had issue with their exhaust flange nuts loosening, especially after putting new pipes on, and I've noticed the same thing on mine as well. Torque spec is 120 in-lb (10 ft-lb), and so far I'm 2 for 2 in riding, then checking and tightening back to spec. Is this normal for a period until the pipe-to-gasket purchase is fully seated, or should I look into somehow locking the bolts on and/or frequently checking them as they will forever be a pain in the ****? The lower-rear bolt just became a bear to access with the Cobra heat shield in place, so I'm inclined to at lease pull the shields, torque it down, and put a wrap of stainless safety wire on the threads to prevent it from backing out. What's your experience with your nuts?
Last edited by ApexRider; 11-17-2017 at 11:17 AM. Reason: nuts, I meant nuts!
#6814
I understand this perfectly.
So I've noticed others have had issue with their exhaust flange bolts loosening, especially after putting new pipes on, and I've noticed the same thing on mine as well. Torque spec is 120 in-lb (10 ft-lb), and so far I'm 2 for 2 in riding, then checking and tightening back to spec. Is this normal for a period until the pipe-to-gasket purchase is fully seated, or should I look into somehow locking the bolts on and/or frequently checking them as they will forever be a pain in the ****? The lower-rear bolt just became a bear to access with the Cobra heat shield in place, so I'm inclined to at lease pull the shields, torque it down, and put a wrap of stainless safety wire on the threads to prevent it from backing out. What's your experience with your nuts?
So I've noticed others have had issue with their exhaust flange bolts loosening, especially after putting new pipes on, and I've noticed the same thing on mine as well. Torque spec is 120 in-lb (10 ft-lb), and so far I'm 2 for 2 in riding, then checking and tightening back to spec. Is this normal for a period until the pipe-to-gasket purchase is fully seated, or should I look into somehow locking the bolts on and/or frequently checking them as they will forever be a pain in the ****? The lower-rear bolt just became a bear to access with the Cobra heat shield in place, so I'm inclined to at lease pull the shields, torque it down, and put a wrap of stainless safety wire on the threads to prevent it from backing out. What's your experience with your nuts?
I wonder if theres room to add a second nut to act as a lock. Or possibly just add lock washer.
#6815
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
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probably could have worded that differently
I've had them go missing and the pipe dislodge.
check them routinely. Some folks double them.
Jegs sells 12 point 5/16-24 nuts made by ARP that will not budge. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...84102/10002/-1
I've had them go missing and the pipe dislodge.
check them routinely. Some folks double them.
Jegs sells 12 point 5/16-24 nuts made by ARP that will not budge. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...84102/10002/-1
The following 2 users liked this post by cvaria:
ApexRider (11-17-2017),
johnny_bravo00 (11-21-2017)
#6816
looks like Belleville Spring Lock Washers might be a good option as well, and can be had in stainless.
maybe a dab of red loctite at the edge of the properly torqued nut? Sure, it's going to get roasted from the heat, but the material itself may be enough to prevent loosening and unneeded drama in the middle of a trip. Just throwing that out there.
maybe a dab of red loctite at the edge of the properly torqued nut? Sure, it's going to get roasted from the heat, but the material itself may be enough to prevent loosening and unneeded drama in the middle of a trip. Just throwing that out there.
#6817
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#6819
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https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...Wnd2dh1xDCSejm