repaired the shifter, grade 8 bolt and tightened the crap out of it... then rode the **** out of it!

 

jeez....

 

Yeah that! And now what we're all wondering...


What does the rotor look like ?


thanks,


T.

 

Although it's "Thin" (an inch is a good as a mile), you're right inline with the FSM instructions of replacing if .040" or less

 

You guys like my brakes, eh? LOL. The bike had 6K on it when I got it 2 yrs ago, and now I'm at 24K. The original owner replaced the stock rotors with aftermarket because he was into a "flames" thing. I have a feeling he replaced the stock pads too. So, they have somewhere around low 20K miles. Half of my miles are highway.

No damage to the rotor, it was still all pad making contact. I did get a little too close for comfort though.

Just as a side note - I had good pressure on the brake lever last night, then suddenly it was gone. Not sure how air got in there, but I couldn't get it tight again, after repeated bleeding & pumping. So I did a trick I read about - squeeze the brake lever all the way in and zip tie it to the grip. Left it that way over night. This morning - tight as a drum!

 

works like a charm

 

Sorry, guess my question came across wrong, wasn't implying
there was metal-metal contact. Just wondering if you mic'd
the rotor thickness. With that much pad wear, the rotor might
be under thickness spec too...

T.

 

Ahh, gotcha. Something to check...

 

shop sent me a message on friday that there was a critical failure during my dyno testing :O
except it was a failure OF the dyno, some part broke, needed to get it overnighted from Dynojet, will be finishing tune on Monday. Said it was running very rich :/ better than lean I guess.
gave me such a fright. lol

 

DUDE! You broke the Dyno!!! Your bike should get an award for that.