Apparently if you don't wash your bike for a few years, parts rust. Who'd have thunk it. I spent the week internally wiring replacement bars. Changed the chrome 1" LA Choppers Nice Curves to the 1.25" black powder coated LA Choppers Nice Curves. The beefier look is pretty cool, I like 'em. They're also knurled which is a nice change; the non-knurled bars were constantly getting readjusted on the road. Of course now I've got to change the mirrors and levers to black; they're in the mail. I also replaced the stock turn signals with custom dynamics truwrapz, which are cool as hell.. you can't see them at all until the blinkers come on.
It's been a busy spring. Hammer 1275, DK heel-toe shifter, bars, blinkers, kuryakn bluegrass breather system, 13" air shocks, ignition switch relo (again), combo digital speedo / analog tach, fuel gauge kit (which isn't working), roland sands headlight/speedo relocate, new clutch and stator, power vision, back rest. I've got progressive springs and ricor intiminators yet to install.
I've been telling myself for years that when my truck was paid off I'd buy a road king.. but the time came, I rode one, and it's just not as fun. I'm as in love with my Sporty as ever, so I've been making all the little refinements I've been wanting.
Yikes! That's a lot of projects! Post some pics of your hard work. Please.
Made some progress, albeit slow, with the stainless mesh addition to
the buckshot exhaust heatsheilds. Not gonna say too much
as to what I used (not JBWeld) cause it may look like crap-tastic
or even "fall off". Feels like baby steps, wish it was 'done'.
T. (what the heck was I thinking when I started this)
Made some progress, albeit slow, with the stainless mesh addition to
the buckshot exhaust heatsheilds. Not gonna say too much
as to what I used (not JBWeld) cause it may look like crap-tastic
or even "fall off". Feels like baby steps, wish it was 'done'.
T. (what the heck was I thinking when I started this)
So I'm calling this 'done', tired of messin' with it... Not great,
but then, this Iron is ridden on the streets and has the scars to show it...
Waxed, waxed, waxed more. sanded, painted.. trying to smooth out my poor paint job on my tubes. getting there.
Also cut open my ham can a bit more, was running without it and I like it but im trying to decide if I want to run it like this instead of completely open.
dont think I want to run it closed, as the IAT are much higher with it. not sure if it really matters but I figured opening the front will move the area around a lot faster / and get that nice cool air instead of sucking it off the heads.
Might cut the whole thing around, so its more of like a plate, basically where the end of the radius is..
Did this by hand in one attempt with a jigsaw, pretty impressed!
Ill repaint it once I decide if Im leaving like this or cutting more of the top off.
Moved my front turn signals to the forks, swapped out my stock bars and grips for some Ryca drag bars and retro grips. Like the look and no longer leaning back.
Hi Everybody,
I finished the stage-one upgrade I mentioned in my previous post.
The ShortShots I was going to install were actually for a Dyna, so I sold them, de-baffled the original pipes and added DK-TTI W158.
I like the sound of the bike, I did not want it too loud. I took it out for a ride on a very windy day, at WOT I could not hear the exhaust as much as feeling the low tune in my belly. It is quite pleasant. As far as performance goes I think I am missing something when starting, but the progression is nice and smooth. I won't win any drag race but there is some power there too enjoy. I think the idle mix is still a little rich, I can probably get better low-RPMs torque going a little leaner. In about one and half hour driving, highway, city traffic and curvy country roads not a single backfire, and that was what I really wanted to get rid of.
On a practical note. The muffler interconnect gaskets were leaky and visibly deformed. I just did not want to spend $20 there so I tried some hi temp sealant (Permatex Ultra Copper RTV Silicone 81878; $7). It is holding perfectly, I'll let you know if It will keep holding or not.
Originally Posted by aidoru
Hi, this is my first post here. I used this forum many times as a precious source for tempering with my Sportster and I want to give back some.
I am upgrading my 2004 XL1200C to stage one. When I bought the bike the PO also gave me a Scremin' Eagle Dynojet kit (29045-97B) and a V&H Staggered Shortshots. Today I took out the carburetor for cleaning, tuning and eventually rejetting prior of installing a Hi-flow air cleaner and the ShortShots.
Since I could not find any source about tuning the carb with the SE DynoJet kit, I am leaving my experience hoping It will be helpful.
When I took the carb apart the setup was:
45 slow Jet (stock was 42)
170 main jet (stock 175)
SE emulsion channel(?) larger than stock but only two tiny hole on the side
SE needle with 3 shims (the needle is more tapered than the stock one)
SE spring (shorter and thinner than stock)
Idle mix screw was at 2 3/4 turns.
With this setup, stock aircleaner and pipes the bike was running strong except for quaite a bit spitting popping and backfiring.
I reduced all the popping ect. last week simply setting the
idle at 2 1/4 turns.
So I have a drip that is coming from the transmission drain plug. Not sure if the INDY didn't properly tighten up the bolt or if he destroyed the O-Ring on the bolt. I see a small drip on the floor of my HD SHED that is new since I picked up the bike. About 1 table spoon that spread out that is likely looking worse than it was. BUT I only have 100 miles on the bike since I picked it up and and I have no clue how long its been leaking...the past 5 days since I got it back.
Is there an O-Ring on the transmission magnetic drain plug? My 2013 service manual says yes. I call my local dealer and they say no. They claim to use 3 wraps of white teflon pipe seal. When I inspected the bolt and found the drip I see what looks to be whats left of a black O-ring that is very thin just hanging. I was able to easily remove it. But I can't tell if it was a very thin O-Ring or some form of black permatex material. I know the bolt was not very tight as I bumped it lose and it took nothing to do that when I just bumped it back tight again. Good news was that it has not leaked in a day since I found the drip and tightened the trans drain plug. I know my manual say it takes just a small amount of in/ounces of torque to reinstall.
ALSO my local dealer is telling me that my 1200XL Custom has what they call a "monolythic" system where as the main engine oil and trans share the same oil. ??? So as long as my main oil dip stick is reading ok I have enough.
Is that right???
My service manual does not call that out. Needless to say it shows to remove the 5 screws on the clutch inspection cover to check the trans fluid oil as well to add.
Can someone clear this up?
Can I just remove the trans drain plug and add teflon tape and reinstall? Manual shows loctite 565 and says to replace the O-ring.
Can I just remove the clutch inspection cover/derby cover and check the trans fluid and add as necessary to refill/top off? Will I need to replace some form of seal/O-ring that is behind that cover? Called a "quad ring"?
Thanks for any help in advance!
I hate to say it but it really is frustrating to pay for service and have to fix sh## after I get it back. As well as get shotty info from places who are to be in know... WFT
I am not an expert so take it with a grain of salt. I would not be ok with the dealer using plumbing tape instead of changing the o-ring, and I would be even less ok with a leaky bike just out of service. Also my 2004 xl1200c does have a magnetic plug.
Apparently if you don't wash your bike for a few years, parts rust. Who'd have thunk it. I spent the week internally wiring replacement bars. Changed the chrome 1" LA Choppers Nice Curves to the 1.25" black powder coated LA Choppers Nice Curves. The beefier look is pretty cool, I like 'em. They're also knurled which is a nice change; the non-knurled bars were constantly getting readjusted on the road. Of course now I've got to change the mirrors and levers to black; they're in the mail. I also replaced the stock turn signals with custom dynamics truwrapz, which are cool as hell.. you can't see them at all until the blinkers come on.
It's been a busy spring. Hammer 1275, DK heel-toe shifter, bars, blinkers, kuryakn bluegrass breather system, 13" air shocks, ignition switch relo (again), combo digital speedo / analog tach, fuel gauge kit (which isn't working), roland sands headlight/speedo relocate, new clutch and stator, power vision, back rest. I've got progressive springs and ricor intiminators yet to install.
I've been telling myself for years that when my truck was paid off I'd buy a road king.. but the time came, I rode one, and it's just not as fun. I'm as in love with my Sporty as ever, so I've been making all the little refinements I've been wanting.
04-21-2017, 12:48 PM
