I run mine right side up but it doesn't matter I don't think. A car jack under the engine with somone holding the bike upright will work as the wheels can/should remain on the ground. It is a fairly quick job.
Just temporarily to drain the oil. You don't need a lift, the bike will sit fine on one shock, and you can lift by hand enough to pull and re-install the shock bolt, at least I could on mine.
No, don't run them upside down. I don't know how that would work for the internal valving, but I'm guessing not the same. As you go over bumps, the oil will work down in the bottom (the actual top of the shock) and I don't see how it would get back up where it belongs (the actual bottom of the shock). Just put the shock on upside down finger tight, then swap it around and torque it down. Don't forget your frame clearance, try washers between the shock and frame until you see everything clear. I think I used 5/8 washers, but when you have a bolt off, just check to see what size washer fits it. I used fairly thick ones, two gave me plenty of clearance, one was too close for my comfort.
Good thing you got torque wrenches, you don't want to strip torx heads, if you have those like mine does. I also use blue loctite. Don't use red, you wouldn't want to use heat to loosen red with those rubber shock mount bushings next to the bolt, and that stuff holds so well you'd run the risk of stripping out the torx heads trying to get them off next time - that would mean drilling the head off to get the shock off, and heating the stud with a torch to loosen it enough to turn with vice grips. I've had to do that on bolts some meathead soaked with red loctite, no fun.
Just temporarily to drain the oil. You don't need a lift, the bike will sit fine on one shock, and you can lift by hand enough to pull and re-install the shock bolt, at least I could on mine.
No, don't run them upside down. I don't know how that would work for the internal valving, but I'm guessing not the same. As you go over bumps, the oil will work down in the bottom (the actual top of the shock) and I don't see how it would get back up where it belongs (the actual bottom of the shock). Just put the shock on upside down finger tight, then swap it around and torque it down. Don't forget your frame clearance, try washers between the shock and frame until you see everything clear. I think I used 5/8 washers, but when you have a bolt off, just check to see what size washer fits it. I used fairly thick ones, two gave me plenty of clearance, one was too close for my comfort.
Good thing you got torque wrenches, you don't want to strip torx heads, if you have those like mine does. I also use blue loctite. Don't use red, you wouldn't want to use heat to loosen red with those rubber shock mount bushings next to the bolt, and that stuff holds so well you'd run the risk of stripping out the torx heads trying to get them off next time - that would mean drilling the head off to get the shock off, and heating the stud with a torch to loosen it enough to turn with vice grips. I've had to do that on bolts some meathead soaked with red loctite, no fun.
I was confused by your picture. I didn't notice the hose and bucket.
Last edited by OCSpringer; 04-30-2020 at 02:48 PM.
Packgrog
Look at youtube about using a pipe amp 2x6 to male a center stand. They work and are cheap. I would have someone there to help but beats spending big bucks for a jack.
I recieved my new exhaust today. A couple days ago I went to check on what I thought was a loose clamp for the muffler and realized it was the whole pipe moving. I thought the exhaust bolts were loose at the head but they were not. I have wrapped pipes and realized the pipe must have cracked. Unwrapped it to find this.....
Wasn't expecting that.
Last edited by OCSpringer; 04-30-2020 at 05:30 PM.
I recieved my new exhaust today. A couple days ago I went to check on what I thought was a loose clamp for the muffler and realized it was the whole pipe moving. I thought the exhaust bolts were loose at the head but they were not. I have wrapped pipes and realized the pipe must have cracked. Unwrapped it to find this.....
Wasn't expecting that.
The cracking is exactly what I've seen happen many times on people's pipes that have them wrapped.
IMHO, the user SHOULD expect this with wrapped pipes. To a lesser degree with stainless, depending
on the grade of stainless used in the pipes....
Highly recommend using a ceramic coating applied by a professional. I've had my pipes ceramic
coated for more than 5 years - no issues...
I figured that was the culprit as if you look at the actual crack it is in the pattern the wrap leaves on the pipe so it must have something to do with heat where the wrap overlaps coupled with vibration or something. My first thought was rust but there is actually not much. The new pipes are stainless and will not be wrapped. I thought about ceramic coating them black but that will come at a later date I think. The mufflers I had on there previously I had ceramic coated black and they have held up really nicely.
Last edited by OCSpringer; 04-30-2020 at 06:01 PM.
Just installed the Dart Flyscreen in black on my 48. Super cool and totally fits the style. Little tedious install but it looks great. Really good quality as well.
Just installed the Dart Flyscreen in black on my 48. Super cool and totally fits the style. Little tedious install but it looks great. Really good quality as well.
Uh, hmmm, without pics it just didn't happen, sorry.
Just installed the Dart Flyscreen in black on my 48. Super cool and totally fits the style. Little tedious install but it looks great. Really good quality as well.
04-30-2020, 02:07 PM
