Thanks, it looks interesting. Is there any feedback on the need or advantages of it?
Well, there is no free ride (so to speak). The trade off for an easier pull, is that it is now longer.
I added this to my wife's Iron because I installed the 15% stronger Energy One spring....
Lever pull is pretty easy. As mentioned, correct adjustment is crucial...
Well, the Formotion clock that I've had on 4 Harley's spanning the last 16 years bit the dust; I guess it's time had come. ( Sorry, I couldn't resist.) I thought it was just dead batteries, but no dice. The good news is Formotion gives you 25% off a new model if you send them the old clock, which I did. I opted for their Reference series clock that has larger numbers and a black face so it would match the speedo & tach. Those numbers look big but when you're at speed a quick glance is all you'll need with those. The old clock had a white face and smaller numbers and harder to see when riding. I made a small flat mounting bracket to mount it in this location.
Formotion makes all the Harley clock products as well, and you pay a bunch more for that logo as we all know. Here's their website if you're curious. https://www.formotionproducts.com/
Well, there is no free ride (so to speak). The trade off for an easier pull, is that it is now longer.
I added this to my wife's Iron because I installed the 15% stronger Energy One spring....
Lever pull is pretty easy. As mentioned, correct adjustment is crucial...
hth,
T.
Thanks. With my stock diaphragm spring and my clutch lever pull feeling lighter and smoother as is with the *** throw-out bearing, I think I'd better leave it alone.
Installed a Barrett extra plate clutch kit in my 2011 XL1200C. I looked over the plates I removed and did not notice any excessive wear. The spring plate was in good shape as far as I could tell. No missing revits or springs. Bike has 28,450 miles
Glad I did, so I don't have to worry about it, but, not sure it was necessary. In the end, I learned some things and will sleep better knowing the clutch is not a potential point of failure.
I completely agree with your line if thinking and that's what I'm going to do . Mines at 22,000 miles but I'm not the first owner and I don't know how it's been ridden . I'll probably find nothing wrong with the Spring Plate ( if it actually has one ! ) but it's peace of mind once it's done .
Just ordered a set of rear brake pads from Lyndall. I went with their Z+ pads as they say there is no noise or dust. I've used EBC organic pads on several bikes with no real dust problem, but have had MAJOR amounts of brake dust from the pads for the Sportster. The whole left side of the rear of the bike ends up being coated with black brake dust from the EBC pads, and I'm just tired of the mess.
The EBC organic pads I've had on a Honda and Kawasaki have always been a brown/tan color, the pads for the Sportster were black. Needless to say, I'd go back to stock Harley pads before I'd buy another set of EBC pads. I hope the Lyndall pads live up to the hype, cause they are proud of them...
Thanks. With my stock diaphragm spring and my clutch lever pull feeling lighter and smoother as is with the *** throw-out bearing, I think I'd better leave it alone.
I did not know about the better *** throw-out bearing at the time I did the Energy One clutch or I would have installed it too.
It's still on my list of "things to do".
I did not know about the better *** throw-out bearing at the time I did the Energy One clutch or I would have installed it too.
It's still on my list of "things to do".
thanks,
T.
The good thing about replacing the throw-out bearing is you don't need to remove the primary cover, just the derby cover. There are some YouTube videos on how to replace it in its holder.
I have found the exact bearing but while searching came across 7200BTVP, 7200BGTVP, 7200BEP and 7200BECBP. The last 2 are SKF. Any idea what the differences are as I couldn't find anything.
Andy, it is many years since I last studied the darned things, but in the world of bearings part of a bearing # number is universal, in other words common to all brands, while part may be specific to that manufacturer. A way to learn more is to pick on a specific brand and check their own website, such as SKF for those two.