I'll let you know. Probably do it as soon as the gaskets arrive, using the old shortened Allen wrench I already have, but I am thinking about that bar torque converter.

 

Installed the engine guard kit. Nothing special, just regular round chrome part 49287-11.

 

I removed the front and rear wheels for the install of my new Dunlop AEs. Originally info said arriving Thurs, now says Fri, . Local indy shop wanted $25 to mount tire, if bought from them, and an extra $50 per tire if they did the R&R of the wheels. I went with Cyclegear for the tires, at $25 to mount and balance both tires, and pulled the wheels myself. Front was easy, but I see why the indy wanted $50 to R&R the rear. What a PITA.

 

Even back in the '60s I don't remember having any tires that wandered like 401s, seems anything is an improvement over those. My 883 had brand new 401s on it, still had the mold nipples on them. Put less than 500 miles on them before I couldn't stand it anymore and got a new set of Avons. All 4 of my Harleys had 401s, none stayed on very long. I change my own tires, have a Cycle Hill (NoMar budget brand) changer, so that makes the cost a lot less of an issue.

Taking it off is the easy part.

Helps to have a little assistant putting it back on.

 

I also see a mod to my motorcycle jack in the near future. My jack (HF) comes with anchor rings welded to the main frame, and they are nicely done. The problem is when I strapped the bike to them, to keep it steady when I removed the wheels, I cannot raise or lower it without readjusting the straps.

My solution will be to add some anchor rings to the rails the contact the bottom of the bike. Then I will be able to raise and lower it without messing with the straps.

 

Yea ya got a little helper there. My "little helpers" will be 36 (2) and one will be 40, this year and have families of their own. I noticed your axle goes in from right to left, mine goes in from left to right. I didn't have to remove the rear muffler that way. Thats how my bike was when I got it,

I did not remove front fender either, just let the air out of the tires. Will do the same going back in. I most likely will need some help going back in though, especially on the rear. To much crap to do at once. I plan on putting the front back on first that way I can push a bit from the rear without fear of pushing the bike over.

Oh yea, left the belt guard on too. Took some wiggling but it worked.

My plan is to get a touring bike this fall. I bet those are REALLY fun to change tires on. NOT

 

I checked the battery tender to make sure it was functioning.....all is good except for the weather. Cold and white.

 

That's Crazy, I never used mine, but pretty sure they ARE on the rails that contact the bottom of the bike already.
(They really ALL should be there, not a well thought out design)

 

Well it is what it is but I plan on fixing it.

 

I don't have a problem with the rear wheel clearing the fender, and the straps hook on to the lifting arms on this jack. It's a Harbor Freight hi-lift jack, goes up 30". Looked scary the first time I took it all the way up.





A lot of the standard bike jacks only have hooks on the frame, poor design I agree, I have a standard steel and an aluminum, and neither have a place to hook on the lifting arms.