As I don't yet have the factory service manual, hopefully one of you knowledgeable folks can lend me a hand......clutch works fine, it just engages too far out. I did adjust the cable length so that there is more play, but is there an adjustment for the clutch itself? It is not comfortable engaging when the handle is almost all they way out.

Said another way: There should be some play in the handle with the clutch fully engaged - there is. What I am looking for is to 'pull in' the 'engagement point' closer towards the grip.

Hopefully this is clear enough....thanks.

 

I'm not sure you can do that, maybe try putting more slack in your cable?

I don't think the adjuster inside the derby cover will do anything, I believe it just makes sure the clutch pressure plate is fully engaged with a wee margin. I know they must spec the cable/lever freeplay to be that way for a reason. Probably need minimum "length of pull" to fully disengage clutch pack.

There are clutch levers aftermarket that might move the lever face closer for comfort. I was going to get some, but they all seem to be made of crappy plated chrome feces, so I kept my stockers.

John

 

Thanks for the reply John,
I had a feeling that was the case. I'll just put more play in the lever.....

Again..thanks,
Allen

 

Watch this. Great explanation.

 

Turn the adjustment screw under the derby cover more than 1/4 turn from seated. The further past, the closer it gets to the bar.

 

What year is your Sportster...?? Sometimes the adjustment process varies a bit, but you should only have ~1/16" to 1/8" gap in the clutch, if adjusted properly. Normally, if you can slip a dime between the clutch stop and lever - it's good. Sounds like yours needs an adjustment. Here's the steps from my 2003 Service manual:

1. Remove the clutch inspection cover and quad ring.
2. Slide the rubber boot off the clutch in-line cable adjuster.
3. Loosen the adjuster jam nut and turn the adjuster to provide maximum cable slack.
4. Make sure the clutch cable ferrule seats squarely in the lever housing receptacle on the handlebar.
5. At the clutch mechanism, remove the spring and lockplate assembly.
6. Turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until it is lightly seated.
7. Turn the adjusting screw 1/4 turn clockwise.
8. Reinstall the spring and lockplate assembly so it fits inside the outer ramp recess. If necessary, turn the adjusting clockwise until the flats on the lockplate fit into the flats in the outer ramp.
9. Be sure the quad ring is located in the primary drivecover groove.
10. Install the inspection cover so the notch in the cover fits over the cable boss on the primary drive cover. Tighten the retaining screws to 84-108 in.-lb.
11. Check the free play as follows:
a. At the inline cable adjuster, turn the adjuster away from the jam nut until slack is eliminated at the clutch hand lever.
b. Pull the clutch cable end away from the clutch lever, then turn the clutch cable adjuster to obtain the freeplay of 1/16-1/8 in.
c. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the clutch inline cable jam nut and slide the rubber boot over the cable adjuster.

 

I guess its clutch adjustment time...the video was great, as well as the advice.

@Iceman, its a 2011 Superlow...the instructions you posted seem pretty close to what was in the video....

Again, thanks guys.

 

If you don't own a torque wrench I'd get one. Remember INCH pounds, 90 isn't very much.

 

I had exactly the same problem as you. Just follow the youtube video, and you will be fine. I followed that exact video. And now the clutch engages right where it should

 

Apologies for the dumb question, but what does "seated" mean? How do I tell the screw is finally seated when I turn it?

I've also watched the video and it says the same thing as Iceman, to turn the screw until it is "seated".

Thanks for the help.