taillights keep blowing out on 2011 48
#1
taillights keep blowing out on 2011 48
My taillights just started blowing out on the rear of my 2011 48. I recently installed a bowman sissy bar so I was messing around near the rear running lights. Brake and turn signals were still working, replaced bulbs, the taillights started working but one blew out within a few minutes. Is there a ground or something simple that I have messed with to cause this to occur?
#2
My taillights just started blowing out on the rear of my 2011 48. I recently installed a bowman sissy bar so I was messing around near the rear running lights. Brake and turn signals were still working, replaced bulbs, the taillights started working but one blew out within a few minutes. Is there a ground or something simple that I have messed with to cause this to occur?
You could have either pinched/crimped something, or if anything got loose and the tire bottomed out against the fender...that will cause havok with whatever wires the tire touches.
#4
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The only thing to cause a blown fuse in a light circuit is a 12v+ direct short to ground; locate the 12v+ wire that is making ground [@an adjacent ground wire, frame, or the fixture itself [if it's self grounding]], repair it, protect it, and secure it to make sure it's not free to find ground again! And if during your discovery process you find that the fixture's a POS then spend some to buy sumpthin' decent, to alleviate anymore issues. Electrical problems, who need's 'em!
Methods of protection include the correct diameter wire loom, clear tubing [sliced down the length and taped at each end, described below - my favorite method], and electrical tape [my least favorite method].
I've found that the very best way to secure wire loom or tubing to the wiring to make sure that it stays in place, is the 'ol factory method: mark the ends of the wiring you wish to protect, then cut a piece of loom/tubing the same length and put it aside. At one of these marks take a 6" length of electrical tape and wrap it a few times around the wire[s] [I like to wrap it so it sticks to itself, adhesive to adhesive side first], then slide the loom/tubing into position, and allow the excess electrical tape to come out of the "slice" in the side of either the loom or the tubing [that you sliced through lengthwise earlier]. Now simply align the loom/tubing with the very end of the electrical tape and continue wrapping the tape around the loom/tubing in the same direction until she's toyt [yeeeesh, toyt...toyt like a toyger! [vague movie reference; points if you know which actor/movie]]. Repeat the process with the other end - and I assure you that the covering is not going anywhere despite repeated vibrations, chafing, etc.
=8^)
Methods of protection include the correct diameter wire loom, clear tubing [sliced down the length and taped at each end, described below - my favorite method], and electrical tape [my least favorite method].
I've found that the very best way to secure wire loom or tubing to the wiring to make sure that it stays in place, is the 'ol factory method: mark the ends of the wiring you wish to protect, then cut a piece of loom/tubing the same length and put it aside. At one of these marks take a 6" length of electrical tape and wrap it a few times around the wire[s] [I like to wrap it so it sticks to itself, adhesive to adhesive side first], then slide the loom/tubing into position, and allow the excess electrical tape to come out of the "slice" in the side of either the loom or the tubing [that you sliced through lengthwise earlier]. Now simply align the loom/tubing with the very end of the electrical tape and continue wrapping the tape around the loom/tubing in the same direction until she's toyt [yeeeesh, toyt...toyt like a toyger! [vague movie reference; points if you know which actor/movie]]. Repeat the process with the other end - and I assure you that the covering is not going anywhere despite repeated vibrations, chafing, etc.
=8^)
Last edited by DrewBone; 08-20-2013 at 06:34 AM.
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