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Is my clutch done?

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  #21  
Old 08-21-2013, 07:45 AM
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Energy One makes and excellent "extra plate" clutch kit which seems to require a bit less clutch pull force than the SE clutch plate kit, but both work fine. If you need the clutch done under warranty, the SE kit will probably be the logical (no cost) option.
 
  #22  
Old 08-21-2013, 11:11 AM
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My first clutch replacement was at 25,000 miles. The second lasted 40,000 miles. I certainly don't fit the "typical Sporty Rider" cHarley describes. I agree with him, it's just doesn't apply to me. I do plenty of twisty riding, in my part of the world just a short ride through the country is going to involve twisties. I also sometimes take the Sporty on a 400 - 600 superslab ride.

And then there are my Patriot Guard Rider activities. Those are very abusive on the clutch.
 
  #23  
Old 08-21-2013, 12:35 PM
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Use the stock diaphram spring back along with the plate upgrade and you are good to go. No need for the extra pressure unless you have introduced more hp into the equation.
 
  #24  
Old 08-21-2013, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by wachuko
Is this one of those mods that should be done as a preventive measure... I am one of those riders that uses the bike on short rides, meaning, lots of traffic stop-and-go.

Bike is new, less than 1K miles, just want to be ready for it. And, hopefully without opening a can of worms, what would be the recommended clutch brand to go with? HD SE? Something else?
Don't buy the $199 kit for a new bike.
All you need is 1 friction disc & 1 steel plate.
 
  #25  
Old 08-21-2013, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by c0jones
Don't buy the $199 kit for a new bike.
All you need is 1 friction disc & 1 steel plate.
I think 2 steels and 1 friction as I recall? I figure the spring plate is steel on both sides, so you need a friction in between the new steels. I'm sure someone who has done this knows exactly. Also, something about the overall height of the clutch pack matters too.

Does anyone have the part numbers for these items??

John
 
  #26  
Old 08-22-2013, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by John Harper
I think 2 steels and 1 friction as I recall? I figure the spring plate is steel on both sides, so you need a friction in between the new steels. I'm sure someone who has done this knows exactly. Also, something about the overall height of the clutch pack matters too.

Does anyone have the part numbers for these items??

John
That's correct, use 2 steels and 1 friction to replace the Spring Plate.
If your repairing the clutch at <=25,000 miles, I would just do the 3 plates. If your out at 50,000 miles, I would probably replace all of the plates in the pack.
 

Last edited by cHarley; 08-22-2013 at 12:22 AM.
  #27  
Old 08-26-2013, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by John Harper
I think 2 steels and 1 friction as I recall? I figure the spring plate is steel on both sides, so you need a friction in between the new steels. I'm sure someone who has done this knows exactly. Also, something about the overall height of the clutch pack matters too.

Does anyone have the part numbers for these items??

John
Originally Posted by cHarley
That's correct, use 2 steels and 1 friction to replace the Spring Plate.
If your repairing the clutch at <=25,000 miles, I would just do the 3 plates. If your out at 50,000 miles, I would probably replace all of the plates in the pack.
Doh! Yep...
 
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