thanks again all. one of the reasons i brought this question up (besides the fact that i was surprised how many "different" maps there are out there for a 1250 conversion) is because my engine temps were running really high after about 20-25 miles of riding mildly. my temps were creeping up to 400F so i figured i may have a timing issue. this is why i have so many questions about timing and how it works and effects the bike. also, i just want to learn.

i built a sort of hybrid map using Mich's AFR tables, Hammer Performance VE's, and a person from another forums timing table which many swear by for 1250 conversions. i'm going to start with that this time around, i think it will be good because Mich's AFR is much richer which will hopefully help those ET's. if it is still high heat, i will try Mich's timing table too. i have AutoTune PRO so my VE's will adjust automatically with a few Autotune runs. I assume it's similar to the SE ones some of you use.

 

Waiting to hear your outcome!

 

yeah, me too! still waiting on 2 breather bolt o-rings from V&H that were sent Monday from SoCal, I am in Reno, NV...I should have had them Wed or Thur. They said they will send out another set since they may have been lost but in the meantime I am just waiting with no bike to ride i tried find suitable o-rings to use in the meantime from Harley and local hardware stores but the sizes just do not match...

 

got the o-rings today! here's the latest:

ran this hybrid map:



Same spark advance front and rear. This is a timing table I pulled from another forum that many have sworn by for Sportsters. The AFR table is from Mich. Rode about 15-20 miles in almost 90 degree weather. Rode light, nothing over 50. Bike got to 410 degrees. Just WAY too hot for my liking. Granted, I was running AutoTune (PowerVision) so I'll need to see how high it gets without AT running and now that my VE's are adjusted. If it is still getting that hot, I will try Mich's timing tables (HD Stage 1 1200 table) and see how that goes.

Another tidbit, I noticed a lot more vibration than I was used to on the ride too. Maybe my chain is a little loose? What else causes vibration?

 

Where are you reading these temps from?

 

the Power Vision reads the cylinder temps through the ECM.

 

a poor running engine will feel like more vibration. also loose front motor mount is often the cause as they do loosen up quite quickly. i re-torque mine at the beginning of each riding season.

 

UPDATE:

so have been getting to 400F temps still as of late. however, today i loaded Mich's map (copied his timing and AFR tables) and it only got to 379F riding the same 25 mile stretch i've been doing along. it was about 82F out today. it is possible that these newer 883 to 1250 conversion bikes ('12-'13) need MORE timing to cool it. a lot of people have been telling me less timing helps cool the bike but i've had just as many people tell me MORE timing and MORE fuel helps cool. it seems based off of this trial run today that the latter may be correct. i still am going to pull my intake off and re-install with new seals just to be sure there isn't a leak but maybe i'm finally heading the right direction. the bike does run a bit rough to me, lots of vibration at the low RPM ranges...but the engine is staying cooler so i have to find the happy medium i guess...

 

well with with temps. in the 80's your gonna see a higher engine temp than if it was in the 60's or 70's outside. i'm glad i have no idea what temp. mine is at. i just ride it. sounds like your heading in the right direction anyway. did it seem to vibrate as much?

 

Remember these engines do vibrate. A smooth running sportster engine still vibrates a lot more than a smooth running inline 4. Maybe what you are feeling is normal?