Tire was self installed and you report a previous problem before installation so consider review of rim.
Also consider review of tube installation..
A twisted tube in the tire could cause dyna beads to become trapped and alter balance in a very negative way at higher speeds.

 

Took the front wheel into Cycle City Motorsports yesterday and had them pull the rubber off and put a new tube minus beads. They checked the rim true and gave it a conventional balancing. Problem seemed to be cut in half on test ride. Going to do the same with the rear wheel this week. I've resigned too having someone with a lot more experience do the tire mounting and balancing. Hoping this is a case of Shinkos not liking beads or my lack of skill correctly mounting.

 

I believe in the science behind the beads and really was hopping they worked out for me. They may work for some but I've just gone through a bad experience be it the beads or whatever issue my ride is having. So I'm going back to what I know worked prior to this tire swap.

 

I have tired almost everything that was suggested minus new fork oil (I'm doing that this week while my rear wheel is getting redone) and problem persisted. So I'm going from ground up starting with redoing the only thing that was changed. Tires

 

Check the spokes if your bike has them.

 

Ok here's an up date. Have completed everything that was suggested and the ride has improved a lot. New fork oil make a huge difference. Still getting some weaving around 85mph. As of now the biggest cure was pulling my hard saddlebags off. Tried the ride with them back on and it went back to bad. I have noticed that the swingarm pivot bushing look to me to be sagging. More so on the belt side. ( belt is on the loose side of factory spec). My thoughts on this would be if the bushings are sagging then they are allowing swingarm play, and Since your alignment is based off the pivot bolts then It would make sense that I can't truly align the rear wheel if the bushings are not holding the swingarm square to the frame. I know I may have just answered my own problem but two minds are greater then one any input to this theory

 

You have a 2010 Sportster, so it's a rubbermount. The swingarm is attached to the engine, not the frame. Drop the wheel, and swingarm and check the swingarm pivot tube, it's attached to the engine by three screws and a plate, behind the left rear engine isolator. These screws have a history of breaking. Check the isolators also, they sag after a few years, and it may be time to replace them. Also check the three engine stabilizer dog-bones, 2 in front and one in rear underneath, they keep the engine aligned in the frame, allowing vibration/movement only in the vertical plane. If they're allowing any sideways play, then that translates to your swingarm, since it's attached to the engine. Also, your swingarm bearings are supposed to be replaced every 30k miles, according to the factory service manual. Check and replace all those items and your wobble should be completely gone. Saddle bags should have nothing to do with this problem. Keep the belt loose, it will put less stress on your rear suspension, mine has about an inch of up/down slack with finger pressure, I can almost touch the swingarm pushing up on the belt. Been set that way for more than 2 seasons now with no issue, the factory spec is full of ****. The last thing that will improve your condition is a fork brace. I just installed one a few hours ago, and the difference is major, no more squirrley movement on pavement cracks.