straight answer on what fluid to use
#12
10-27-2012, 04:01 PM
Just an FYI reminder (for the hundredth time):
There is no need or good reason to use V-Twin labeled oil in a Harley motor.
V-Twin oil was specifically designed for single sump (one oil supply for the motor/primary/tranny) oil systems that are found on most motorcycles EXCEPT Harley.
V-Twin oil does not contain friction modifiers because they can harm the clutch when used in single sump oil systems.
Friction modifiers though, are great to have in your motor, as they prevent much of the wear that commonly occurs at start-up on a cold motor, when the oil has drained off the cylinder walls, bearings, etc.
A good quality automotive synthetic oil, like Mobil-1 15w-50, which contains the friction modifier Molybdenum, is IMO, better in the long run than a V-Twin oil without. BTW, you can usually find the Mobil-1 15w-50 at Walmart in a 5 quart jug for ~$27.00 ($5.50/qt).
.
There is no need or good reason to use V-Twin labeled oil in a Harley motor.
V-Twin oil was specifically designed for single sump (one oil supply for the motor/primary/tranny) oil systems that are found on most motorcycles EXCEPT Harley.
V-Twin oil does not contain friction modifiers because they can harm the clutch when used in single sump oil systems.
Friction modifiers though, are great to have in your motor, as they prevent much of the wear that commonly occurs at start-up on a cold motor, when the oil has drained off the cylinder walls, bearings, etc.
A good quality automotive synthetic oil, like Mobil-1 15w-50, which contains the friction modifier Molybdenum, is IMO, better in the long run than a V-Twin oil without. BTW, you can usually find the Mobil-1 15w-50 at Walmart in a 5 quart jug for ~$27.00 ($5.50/qt).
.
#13
10-27-2012, 04:01 PM
HDF Community Team
+1 on what cHarley says, he convinced me.
Since the engine of the Sportster is completely separate from the transmission and clutch, I'm going with Castrol GTX 20/50 next oil change. It's just like an air cooled automobile engine. Buying the HD filter makes sense though, price is close enough to others to warrant the caution about the micron sizing issue.
John
Since the engine of the Sportster is completely separate from the transmission and clutch, I'm going with Castrol GTX 20/50 next oil change. It's just like an air cooled automobile engine. Buying the HD filter makes sense though, price is close enough to others to warrant the caution about the micron sizing issue.
John
#14
10-27-2012, 04:12 PM
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#15
10-27-2012, 04:23 PM
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It's rated completely safe for yellow metal, give a 1b rating. Tested under a specific standard for this type of property. That's what convinced me. I think maybe Redline (1a) was the only oil that rated higher. Amsoil, Castrol, etc. all had acceptable ratings (1b mostly) for exposure to yellow metal.
There was also a brand name that definitely should not be used .
John
Last edited by John Harper; 10-27-2012 at 04:29 PM.
#16
10-27-2012, 04:28 PM
+1 on what cHarley says, he convinced me.
Since the engine of the Sportster is completely separate from the transmission and clutch, I'm going with Castrol GTX 20/50 next oil change. It's just like an air cooled automobile engine. Buying the HD filter makes sense though, price is close enough to others to warrant the caution about the micron sizing issue.
John
Since the engine of the Sportster is completely separate from the transmission and clutch, I'm going with Castrol GTX 20/50 next oil change. It's just like an air cooled automobile engine. Buying the HD filter makes sense though, price is close enough to others to warrant the caution about the micron sizing issue.
John
I use the HD filter because I have the HD filter wrench. lol The price isn't out of line for the filter and I don't have to think about it too hard.
I'll probably be doing the 5000 mile service along with winter storage at the same time. I'm at a little 4500 now and I figure I'll be close enough either way. Also, since I changed the oil and primary at 3000 I'm not worried about being exact. I'll do the 5000 service whenever it is I winterize regardless of mileage. I doubt I'll have more than 6000 by then either way.
#17
10-27-2012, 04:36 PM
If your talking 75W90 M1, it is safe for the stator, cHarley has those lab results I believe.
It's rated completely safe for yellow metal, give a 1b rating. Tested under a specific standard for this type of property. That's what convinced me. I think maybe Redline (1a) was the only oil that rated higher. Amsoil, Castrol, etc. all had acceptable ratings (1b mostly) for exposure to yellow metal.
There was also a brand name that definitely should not be used .
John
It's rated completely safe for yellow metal, give a 1b rating. Tested under a specific standard for this type of property. That's what convinced me. I think maybe Redline (1a) was the only oil that rated higher. Amsoil, Castrol, etc. all had acceptable ratings (1b mostly) for exposure to yellow metal.
There was also a brand name that definitely should not be used .
John
+1 - The thread with that info is HERE.
.
#19
10-27-2012, 04:44 PM
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#20
10-27-2012, 04:45 PM
Just an FYI reminder (for the hundredth time):
There is no need or good reason to use V-Twin labeled oil in a Harley motor.
V-Twin oil was specifically designed for single sump (one oil supply for the motor/primary/tranny) oil systems that are found on most motorcycles EXCEPT Harley.
V-Twin oil does not contain friction modifiers because they can harm the clutch when used in single sump oil systems.
Friction modifiers though, are great to have in your motor, as they prevent much of the wear that commonly occurs at start-up on a cold motor, when the oil has drained off the cylinder walls, bearings, etc.
A good quality automotive synthetic oil, like Mobil-1 15w-50, which contains the friction modifier Molybdenum, is IMO, better in the long run than a V-Twin oil without. BTW, you can usually find the Mobil-1 15w-50 at Walmart in a 5 quart jug for ~$27.00 ($5.50/qt).
.
There is no need or good reason to use V-Twin labeled oil in a Harley motor.
V-Twin oil was specifically designed for single sump (one oil supply for the motor/primary/tranny) oil systems that are found on most motorcycles EXCEPT Harley.
V-Twin oil does not contain friction modifiers because they can harm the clutch when used in single sump oil systems.
Friction modifiers though, are great to have in your motor, as they prevent much of the wear that commonly occurs at start-up on a cold motor, when the oil has drained off the cylinder walls, bearings, etc.
A good quality automotive synthetic oil, like Mobil-1 15w-50, which contains the friction modifier Molybdenum, is IMO, better in the long run than a V-Twin oil without. BTW, you can usually find the Mobil-1 15w-50 at Walmart in a 5 quart jug for ~$27.00 ($5.50/qt).
.