Winterization
#11
09-01-2012 | 12:39 PM
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 302
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
By using the search feature on the forum, here are some of the best suggestions I've found.
Your needs may vary depending of length of storage and whether or not the bike is kept in a dry location like a garage, vs a damp shed or barn.
0. Change the oils and filter.
1. Wash the bike and dry thoroughly
2. Detail (wax) the bike. Fogging the wheels, motor and chassis with WD40 will help prevent corrosion.
3. Put a dab of dielectric grease on all electrical connections
4. Fill fuel tank FULL and add a good fuel stabilizer
5. Run bike for a few minutes to ensure stabilized fuel gets through into fuel system
6. Carb’d bikes - turn fuel petcock off and allow carb to run dry.
NOTE: for longer term storage, fog the cylinders with fogging oil for 30 seconds just prior to killing the ignition.
7. Air cleaner - seal the outside with plastic and tape to prevent "critters" from getting in and setting up shop.
8. Exhaust Pipes – stuff ends with steel wool, again to keep critters out.
9. Place bike in a secure dry location.
10. Place some scrap plywood or carpet under the tires or raise bike on jack to keep them off ground.
11. Connect battery to a tender (Deltran – Battery Tender Jr.)
12. Cover the bike with a breathable cover.
Tip: If covering the bike, a 60 watt light bulb placed on the ground under the bike will further prevent condensation if your storage area is not insulated or subject to wide temperature/humidity variations.
Tip: Fogging the bike, especially laced wheels, with WD40 works great to prevent rust & corrosion.
DO NOT start the bike occasionally to "warm it up". This promotes moisture (condensation) buildup in the motor and oil system. If you can't ride it for an hour, don't start it.
.
Your needs may vary depending of length of storage and whether or not the bike is kept in a dry location like a garage, vs a damp shed or barn.
0. Change the oils and filter.
1. Wash the bike and dry thoroughly
2. Detail (wax) the bike. Fogging the wheels, motor and chassis with WD40 will help prevent corrosion.
3. Put a dab of dielectric grease on all electrical connections
4. Fill fuel tank FULL and add a good fuel stabilizer
5. Run bike for a few minutes to ensure stabilized fuel gets through into fuel system
6. Carb’d bikes - turn fuel petcock off and allow carb to run dry.
NOTE: for longer term storage, fog the cylinders with fogging oil for 30 seconds just prior to killing the ignition.
7. Air cleaner - seal the outside with plastic and tape to prevent "critters" from getting in and setting up shop.
8. Exhaust Pipes – stuff ends with steel wool, again to keep critters out.
9. Place bike in a secure dry location.
10. Place some scrap plywood or carpet under the tires or raise bike on jack to keep them off ground.
11. Connect battery to a tender (Deltran – Battery Tender Jr.)
12. Cover the bike with a breathable cover.
Tip: If covering the bike, a 60 watt light bulb placed on the ground under the bike will further prevent condensation if your storage area is not insulated or subject to wide temperature/humidity variations.
Tip: Fogging the bike, especially laced wheels, with WD40 works great to prevent rust & corrosion.
DO NOT start the bike occasionally to "warm it up". This promotes moisture (condensation) buildup in the motor and oil system. If you can't ride it for an hour, don't start it.
.
Last edited by cHarley; 09-01-2012 at 12:41 PM.
#12
09-01-2012 | 02:59 PM
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, IN
#14
09-01-2012 | 03:56 PM
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: Central Indiana
to anyone that can do it. I would freeze my ***** off. I wish I had the ability. Also, freeking scared of black ice. My luck I would hit a patch and die.
#15
09-01-2012 | 04:34 PM
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 205
Likes: 1
From: alaska
Another article, taken from another place says this...
Preparing your Harley Davidson for Winter Storage
2005 Harley-Davidson_Sportster_XL1200C
To prepare your Harley Davidson for Winter Storage, we have found some great tips which we think you can use to protect your bike and make it ready for riding next spring.
Those who continue to ride through the winter will still benefit from some of these tips to keep your ride in top shape. While many reading this are already in the grips of winter, it is never too late to prepare your Harley (or other equipment) for that long winter’s nap.
Below is a check list for basic winter storage that will help make sure your ride survives until spring.
1. Stabilize the fuel
Modern unleaded fuel only has a shelf life of 3-4 weeks before it begins to deteriorate. Some believe that draining the tank and float bowl is all that is needed to prevent the gasoline from turning to sludge. In my opinion there is no way to completely drain every drop of fuel, especially from all the small passages and jets in the carburetor.
Add the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer to a full tank of fuel, then run the engine for at least 15 minutes to work the stabilized fuel throughout the engine. This will prevent the remaining fuel residue from oxidizing and turning to varnish. There are several brands of fuel stabilizer but be sure to purchase a reliable brand. THE REST OF THE ARTICLE
Preparing your Harley Davidson for Winter Storage
2005 Harley-Davidson_Sportster_XL1200C
To prepare your Harley Davidson for Winter Storage, we have found some great tips which we think you can use to protect your bike and make it ready for riding next spring.
Those who continue to ride through the winter will still benefit from some of these tips to keep your ride in top shape. While many reading this are already in the grips of winter, it is never too late to prepare your Harley (or other equipment) for that long winter’s nap.
Below is a check list for basic winter storage that will help make sure your ride survives until spring.
1. Stabilize the fuel
Modern unleaded fuel only has a shelf life of 3-4 weeks before it begins to deteriorate. Some believe that draining the tank and float bowl is all that is needed to prevent the gasoline from turning to sludge. In my opinion there is no way to completely drain every drop of fuel, especially from all the small passages and jets in the carburetor.
Add the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer to a full tank of fuel, then run the engine for at least 15 minutes to work the stabilized fuel throughout the engine. This will prevent the remaining fuel residue from oxidizing and turning to varnish. There are several brands of fuel stabilizer but be sure to purchase a reliable brand. THE REST OF THE ARTICLE
#16
09-01-2012 | 05:17 PM
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
This is the frist time I am going to have a bike through the winter. I had a doner bike (R6) several years ago, but I got rid of it before I had to winterize it.
Question is...what should I do to make sure my bike is safe for the winter. Obviously I will have it in the garage, but what else should I do? We have some pretty cold winters here in Indiana and I more than likely won't be riding from November till March or April.
What suggestions do you guys have? I just ordered the maintenance book from Harley and should have it in a few days. Figured I would change out the fluids before I stored it. What should I do with the fuel in the tank? What batter tender do you recommend? Anything else I should be doing?
Links would be helpful. Any suggestions will be given a chance.
Thanks!
Question is...what should I do to make sure my bike is safe for the winter. Obviously I will have it in the garage, but what else should I do? We have some pretty cold winters here in Indiana and I more than likely won't be riding from November till March or April.
What suggestions do you guys have? I just ordered the maintenance book from Harley and should have it in a few days. Figured I would change out the fluids before I stored it. What should I do with the fuel in the tank? What batter tender do you recommend? Anything else I should be doing?
Links would be helpful. Any suggestions will be given a chance.
Thanks!
#17
09-01-2012 | 05:33 PM
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 302
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
you will be fine if you have it in your garage...you dont have to do anything, forget all those recommended from previous thread. what i recommend, thing that you have to do is dont forget to warm up your bike 3 times a week for about 10-15 minutes open your garage door that will work. I live in Chicago we have the same season...and that's the only thing i do every winter and got no problem but i make sure i change oil before i use my bike on the spring and summer...
Unless you think having your oil and motor loaded with water moisture is a good thing. It takes at least an hour at operating temperature to burn off accumulated moisture from the system, and every time you start the bike and it cools back off, more moisture accumulates.
.
#18
09-01-2012 | 05:34 PM
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 738
Likes: 12
From: Ontario, New York
you will be fine if you have it in your garage...you dont have to do anything, forget all those recommended from previous thread. what i recommend, thing that you have to do is dont forget to warm up your bike 3 times a week for about 10-15 minutes open your garage door that will work. I live in Chicago we have the same season...and that's the only thing i do every winter and got no problem but i make sure i change oil before i use my bike on the spring and summer...
#19
09-01-2012 | 05:42 PM
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Sorry, but there's no simple or polite way to put this. YOU'RE AN IDIOT.
Unless you think having your oil and motor loaded with water moisture is a good thing. It takes at least an hour at operating temperature to burn off accumulated moisture from the system, and every time you start the bike and it cools back off, more moisture accumulates.
.
Unless you think having your oil and motor loaded with water moisture is a good thing. It takes at least an hour at operating temperature to burn off accumulated moisture from the system, and every time you start the bike and it cools back off, more moisture accumulates.
.
Last edited by IronMan69; 09-01-2012 at 05:50 PM.
