If you have the idle set too low it will take a long time to idle

 

Do Not jet the carb to fix this issue! Unless you've changed to a different cam, air filter, or pipes it should run like it did before the problem without tearing into the carb and guessing at jets.

To warm a carbed bike you need to set the choke about 1/2 way open, twist the throttle 2 or 3 times and fire it up. you may need to raise the throttle at first just enough to smooth it out. As it warms it will speed up the rpms and smooth out even more. I adjust the choke to almost off during warm up, enough to keep it at 1,000 rpms for good oil flow and to achieve a solid recharge voltage. You will hear it speed up slightly, or even see it rev up on your tach to 1,200 or more. Back the choke off (push it in) to drop to a smooth idle at about 1,000 rpms. You may need to ride a mile or 2 to with the choke still slightly set to be able to fully warm the bike and have it run smooth.

I would replace the plugs because it sounds like you leave it idling for way too long with too much choke and that will blacken your plugs. Get the choke down as low as you can right away for a smooth idle. You can hear it warm up and speed up that's when you take the choke down a notch more and let it warm there. I like to let my EVO warm until the choke is almost off and the idle is smooth. Also I give the throttle a little test twist to make sure it's not going to falter, or stumble (run rough) before I hit the road. Don't need it giving you trouble out on the roadway!

 

I pull the choke out all the way. No throttle. Fires right up. Put on helmet, glasses and go. 2 miles down the road, the choke has automatically gone back in.

 

Start up and warming up is a whole lot better now that I changed the oil and primary/gearcase oil for some reason. I just recently bought the bike and the PO said he just changed the fluids but I didnt trust him. I changed to Amsoil 20w-50 and Spectro Chaincase/primary made for sportsters/harley's and it feels like a whole new bike. The bike idles smooth and sounds amazing, shifting is butter smooth and quiet. This fluid change was prob the best money I've spent so far. I'm not sure why a fluid change would change how the bike starts up but running its alot better. Now the only issue I have is on occasion while cruising or hitting bumps my check engine light comes on for a brief second, thinking maybe a loose connection that I will check. And also the bike will sometimes backfire/cough when cruising and I twist the throttle aggressively. It only happens once in a while. I did change the plugs to oem hd plugs. Not too sure what else I can do for the backfiring/coughing issue. My next step is going to be a new a/c and re jet the carb.

 

I go full out, crank it till it fires, then push it halfway in. Let it run idle for about 2 minutes or so, until the rear rocker cover is warm to the touch (use the back of your hand). Usually by then I can push it all the way in and it's ready to roll. I have a 180/46 set up with mine, but I have the SE Stage 1 intake and SE race pipes.