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Shorted the battery!

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  #11  
Old 08-14-2012, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by el ricky
Yes it was on.
Bad things can happen if you jump from a running vehicle. Your bike can handle 12 volts but the amps can fry the voltage regulator.
 
  #12  
Old 08-14-2012, 08:35 AM
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Never jump a bike with a running automobile, you'll fry your voltage regulator!

John
 
  #13  
Old 08-14-2012, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
Bad things can happen if you jump from a running vehicle. Your bike can handle 12 volts but the amps can fry the voltage regulator.
True, but the bike should still crank even if he fried the regulator.

It sounds to me like there's a bad connection somewhere. IMO he should start by cleaning every electrical connection he can find on the bike and putting it back together with dielectric grease to protect it from corrosion in the future. I'd especially suggest cleaning the ground strap that runs from the negative terminal on the battery to the crankcase/transmission. The connection on the crankcase can get really dirty and that will add a lot of resistance to the circuit.
 
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Old 08-14-2012, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Zenmervolt
True, but the bike should still crank even if he fried the regulator.

It sounds to me like there's a bad connection somewhere. IMO he should start by cleaning every electrical connection he can find on the bike and putting it back together with dielectric grease to protect it from corrosion in the future. I'd especially suggest cleaning the ground strap that runs from the negative terminal on the battery to the crankcase/transmission. The connection on the crankcase can get really dirty and that will add a lot of resistance to the circuit.
Yes. Need to confirm the bat is good by load testing it the move to connections. After that time to test reg output the stator output. Could be a bad solinoid also.
 
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Old 08-14-2012, 11:12 AM
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My bike had the same sound when I went to start it was just click, click, click. New battery solved it.
 
  #16  
Old 08-14-2012, 01:17 PM
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But the OP jumped it with a car battery and it still just clicked, right? Even if the truck was running (potential vr probem), enough juice was there to turn the starter. The vr, if damaged, would only drain the battery over time.

I'm starting to think a bad ground somewhere.

John
 
  #17  
Old 08-14-2012, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
Could be a bad solinoid also.
Would a bad solenoid still click though? I was under the impression that the "click" of a solenoid was the sound of the high-tension contact closing the circuit, which would mean that if it's clicking, it's working.
 
  #18  
Old 08-14-2012, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Zenmervolt
Would a bad solenoid still click though? I was under the impression that the "click" of a solenoid was the sound of the high-tension contact closing the circuit, which would mean that if it's clicking, it's working.
No. The magnet portion of the solenoid would throw the Bendix (the click) but the contact washer could be covered in corrosion not allowing the bat voltage to pass through the solenoid to the starting motor. The large washer in part #19 is the contact washer. If you have had a week batery in the past that causes arcing on that washer. http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....ARTER-ASSEMBLY
 
  #19  
Old 08-14-2012, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
No. The magnet portion of the solenoid would throw the Bendix (the click) but the contact washer could be covered in corrosion not allowing the bat voltage to pass through the solenoid to the starting motor. The large washer in part #19 is the contact washer. If you have had a week batery in the past that causes arcing on that washer. http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....ARTER-ASSEMBLY
I should have thought of corrosion inside the relay. Good point.
 
  #20  
Old 08-14-2012, 04:30 PM
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Why were you reconnecting battery before you shorted it?
Was bike cranking before you accidentally shorted it?
If battery was ok before you shorted it with the wrench it's very likely you damaged(shorted on ore more of the cells). Remove the battery from the bike and then jump start the bike with your truck battery with truck not running being careful to not shorting the jumper cables. If bike starts, remove jumper cables and hopefully the bike will continue to run via the alternator. If all good, buy yourself a new battery.

If the damaged battery is connected to the bike when you try to jump start it, it will draw a lot of current from your jump battery making it impossible to start bike.

If you get bike to run check the voltage output of the alternator by measuring the volts at the cables. If over 13 volts, all is good with stator and regulator.
 


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