Greetings Debonair
You have replaced 2 fuses and they did not hold, start with the components of these circuits by using a meter to find what is grounding out your hot to these components 1st.
The one connector for the ground going to the harness was burnt up, bingo.
So I replace it, pop a new fuse in and turn the ignition on. still nothing.

I check the fuse and its already blown.
Another update. I unplugged the connector under the gas tank for the headlight, and checked the wires from there to the fuse block. didn't see anything wrong.
Put in a new fuse, turn the key, pop, fuse blown again with the headlight connector unplugged.


You still have a short on a hot wire somewhere

 

Will do. I thought I found out what it was. I checked the marker lights in the rear and both had some exposed wire. I unplugged each side and tried one more fuse, it was fine. But sure enough, the fuse blew again. Feeling a bit discouraged today (and out of spare fuses) though I might give it another go.

A meter that shows more than Continuity? unfortunately thats all I have at the moment, my good one went out.

 

I think i got it! again..

While the marker lights probably didn't help (and may have been a problem in the future, I'm fairly certain that it is the license plate holder.

The top screw fell out which caused it to move back and forth. I pulled the bottom screw and checked. yup all the wires are exposed.

Now i'm sure there is no chance of rewiring the taillight and the marker lights since the exposed wires are right at the housings which means I'll look into buying new ones.

I'll test it for sure this weekend when I get more Fuses

 

You don't need a meter that does anything more than continuity to test. Check from the positive side of what your checking to a good ground and if there's no short it shouldn't show continuity. It's not entirely that simple but I'm sure you get the gist. A continuity meter should be fine and it will help to save all your fuses.

 

You can always wire a 12v incadesent light bulb to the fuse holder (in place of the fuse) then turn on the power. If the light lights up bright you have a short to ground then you can disconnect plugs or move wiring around, when the light dims or goes out, you found the area where your problem is.

 

What I finally came across.

Since it has to fit in the tubing, and the license plate holder has to sit flush, I won't be able to splice wires will it? Would I be able to get a whole new harness? Do i need a new license plate frame?

 

They make spray on insulation that may work with a few coats applied to those if wire diameter is going to be a issue.

 

Never heard of that but I'm up for trying.

any idea where I would be able to get another allen head screw ?

 

Just cut them one at a time, slip some heat shrink over them, re-solder them and then slip heat shrink over splice and heat the shrink. If there is enough room, cut all three and slip a larger diameter heat shrink tube over them and then slip smaller diameter individual shrink over the re-soldered spices. When that is done, slide the larger shrink over all three to protect them from being frayed when you slide them back into the tube.

Ace hardware has a large selection of screws and bolts.

 

What he said all very fixable. I have even rewired all the way to the bulb contact in the socket back to the harness.