Ah yes, well the OP didn't specify

Thanks for the clarification, although in my experience the battery on my EFI has always had enough juice for the push start to work.. but I've only had to push start the EFI once, had to push start my carb'd many times back in the day though..

 

Just a bit of advice, colorado; when you post, try to use some punctuation. It can make it difficult to pull the situation, problem, and question out of a multi-line post when the poster doesn't use periods or commas. Not a flame, just advice.

 

I'm just going to say "sorry" to you for how long it took me to come around on that one more time cHarley.

 

Ok thanks everyone one for the info. This has helped alot. I think ill just put a interstate battery in and see what happens. It started right up this morning no problem but just to be safe ill do it. "Thanks again for the help"

 

Probably didn't need a new battery.... Voltage regulator on the otherhand may have suffered damages. Original OP did not say the cage was running, but if it was, you more than likely fried the regulator.

 

It isn't as bad as you think. The batteries provide roughly the same voltage therefore it doesn't really play too big of a part in the regulators. Older vehicles without voltage regulators could cause some serious issues. Remember when we were kids and we would "rev" our vehicles to make the other vehicle charge faster? That doesn't apply any longer.


I have heard from a handful of sources that say you should ALWAYS use the kill switch rather than the key/ignition. Something about leaving fuel in the carb which will cause a weird fire up next time and also how it can trash your ignition with voltage or something. Obviously the Carb one doesn't apply to you, but the ignition crapping out may. Lots of discussion on this though.

 

The voltage really has little to do with it. Go back and read the link in my post above. Harley's use (old tech) shunt type regulators, not electronic regulators. The regulator on the Sporty is only designed to handle ~35 amps and it does so by shunting excess current to ground. If you hit it with 100+ amps from a running cage, the 35 amp regulator is going to cook itself trying to sink to ground, more current than it was designed to handle.

 

glad I read this post Ive got a dead battery and thought about if I could jump it off or not, Ill disconnect and charge it--------thanks for the heads up fellas

 

Hehe, no problem. Most people are so used to everything having electronic/switching regulators these days that they either don't understand the difference, or the word "shunt" and what it means just doesn't register. I used to argue the same issue from the opposite side, until an old light-bulb went off in my head and I refreshed my decades old memory on how shunt regulation works.

 

Then they should change the owners manuals of my 97-06-07 and 08 Ford vehicles where it says to raise the rpms of the jumping vehicle.