Sportster Models 883, 883 Custom, 1200 Custom, 883L, 1200L, 1200S, 1200 Roadster, XR1200, and the Nightster.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Font fork bottoming out

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 07-19-2012, 10:31 AM
Flipzslick's Avatar
Flipzslick
Flipzslick is offline
Intermediate
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: St.louis mo.
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

So if I have a brand new iron and there bottoming out, what should I do?
 
  #12  
Old 07-19-2012, 01:37 PM
Rokrover's Avatar
Rokrover
Rokrover is offline
Advanced
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Go the Progressive route.

Just got the front forks perfect on my 2011 Iron. They too bottomed out when new so I did the Progressive 11-1527 spring upgrade. Like everything, it's in the details and you still need to adjust the spacer, oil level and oil viscosity properly for rider weight.

First, there are many discussions here over oil viscosity and it's hard to compare brands as fork oil is NOT rated like an SAE engine oil. Progressive recommends the stock viscosity "Type E" oil so I went with Honda SS-8 10W after I found it is engineered for Showa forks and a very close match to Type E viscosity in cPs at 40 and 100 deg.

Next is oil level and I again followed Progressive recommendation of 5.5" from the top when fully collapsed without the springs inserted. I put the tight winding in first that displaces more oil leaving a smaller air spring on top.

Finally, I found the Progressive 3" spacer gave too much preload (stiff) and went with a 2.5" spacer that sits 0.25" above the fork top when fully extended. The springs then get about 1.25" preload when the fork caps are screwed back in. I didn't like the chintzy PVC spacer so got a Craftsman 21mm socket that was a much better fit all round with a 29mm diameter stainless fender washer underneath.

Now the front forks are very compliant following every ripple in the road and neither bottom nor top out on big bumps with my 195 rider weight. This setup cruelly exposes any weakness in the rear shocks and you need to balance both ends for the best ride consistent with the limited suspension travel.

Chers, RR
 
  #13  
Old 07-19-2012, 02:55 PM
cHarley's Avatar
cHarley
cHarley is offline
Club Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
Posts: 16,320
Received 302 Likes on 231 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Rokrover
Go the Progressive route.

Just got the front forks perfect on my 2011 Iron. They too bottomed out when new so I did the Progressive 11-1527 spring upgrade. Like everything, it's in the details and you still need to adjust the spacer, oil level and oil viscosity properly for rider weight.

First, there are many discussions here over oil viscosity and it's hard to compare brands as fork oil is NOT rated like an SAE engine oil. Progressive recommends the stock viscosity "Type E" oil so I went with Honda SS-8 10W after I found it is engineered for Showa forks and a very close match to Type E viscosity in cPs at 40 and 100 deg.

Next is oil level and I again followed Progressive recommendation of 5.5" from the top when fully collapsed without the springs inserted. I put the tight winding in first that displaces more oil leaving a smaller air spring on top.

Finally, I found the Progressive 3" spacer gave too much preload (stiff) and went with a 2.5" spacer that sits 0.25" above the fork top when fully extended. The springs then get about 1.25" preload when the fork caps are screwed back in. I didn't like the chintzy PVC spacer so got a Craftsman 21mm socket that was a much better fit all round with a 29mm diameter stainless fender washer underneath.

Now the front forks are very compliant following every ripple in the road and neither bottom nor top out on big bumps with my 195 rider weight. This setup cruelly exposes any weakness in the rear shocks and you need to balance both ends for the best ride consistent with the limited suspension travel.

Chers, RR
- Ah, someone that did their homework and got it right the first time.
I thought the same thing about the PVC spacers but used them anyway. I guess Progressive knows what they're doing, because with 70,000 miles on them, the PVC spacers are doing just fine.

.
 
  #14  
Old 07-19-2012, 03:04 PM
Von_Zipper's Avatar
Von_Zipper
Von_Zipper is offline
Road Warrior
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Saint Amant, Acadiana
Posts: 1,880
Received 61 Likes on 48 Posts
Default

PVC is lighter. As a former racer I feel bad for every gram I add to my bike.
 
  #15  
Old 07-19-2012, 03:29 PM
edgeofinsanity's Avatar
edgeofinsanity
edgeofinsanity is offline
Road Master
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Clinton IA
Posts: 988
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jlilnc14
...Also it could be my imagination but while im riding i feel small amounts of liquid splattering on my face from time to time and its not wet out on the roads. thanks
Do you notice it mostly in traffic? When it's hot out, I can feel water droplets getting thrown back into my face from cars that are running air conditioning.
 
  #16  
Old 07-23-2012, 08:52 AM
Iron82's Avatar
Iron82
Iron82 is offline
Intermediate
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Rokrover
Go the Progressive route.

Just got the front forks perfect on my 2011 Iron. They too bottomed out when new so I did the Progressive 11-1527 spring upgrade. Like everything, it's in the details and you still need to adjust the spacer, oil level and oil viscosity properly for rider weight.

First, there are many discussions here over oil viscosity and it's hard to compare brands as fork oil is NOT rated like an SAE engine oil. Progressive recommends the stock viscosity "Type E" oil so I went with Honda SS-8 10W after I found it is engineered for Showa forks and a very close match to Type E viscosity in cPs at 40 and 100 deg.

Next is oil level and I again followed Progressive recommendation of 5.5" from the top when fully collapsed without the springs inserted. I put the tight winding in first that displaces more oil leaving a smaller air spring on top.

Finally, I found the Progressive 3" spacer gave too much preload (stiff) and went with a 2.5" spacer that sits 0.25" above the fork top when fully extended. The springs then get about 1.25" preload when the fork caps are screwed back in. I didn't like the chintzy PVC spacer so got a Craftsman 21mm socket that was a much better fit all round with a 29mm diameter stainless fender washer underneath.

Now the front forks are very compliant following every ripple in the road and neither bottom nor top out on big bumps with my 195 rider weight. This setup cruelly exposes any weakness in the rear shocks and you need to balance both ends for the best ride consistent with the limited suspension travel.

Chers, RR
Thanks, I'm going to try a 2 1/2 spacer now. I used the same shock oil you used.

Spacers tried
1 1/2 too short - not ride-able
3 1/4 too long - not ride-able
Emailed Progressive recommend 1/2(2 3/4) to 5/8 protruding from top of cap.
2 3/4 almost right but still a little stiff. - no bottom out, but dips are a good hard jolt.
2 1/2 is perhaps the soft/sweet spot.
 

Last edited by Iron82; 07-23-2012 at 09:00 AM.
  #17  
Old 08-22-2012, 05:18 PM
Iron82's Avatar
Iron82
Iron82 is offline
Intermediate
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I tried (2 1/4) now after (2 1/2) on the spacer. I'm leaning towards going back to the (2 1/2) spacer. All together I find them to be way stiff no matter. I might also change to a lighter weight oil to see if that helps.

Better than stock I'd agree, but might be better options if you're shopping for new front springs for a low model.
 
  #18  
Old 08-22-2012, 07:16 PM
Brian4420's Avatar
Brian4420
Brian4420 is offline
Stage III
Join Date: May 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Replace the fork oil to the tech. manual amount give it a few days worth of rides befor you spend big bucks. Had the same probem on my 98 fatboy changed the oil and no difference. As I wondered what to do it dissapeared, must have taken awhile to get all around. better than replceing until solved.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AllenW
Frame/Suspension/Front End/Brakes
1
09-19-2019 04:17 PM
hyrax222
EVO
4
03-31-2015 08:55 AM
Lucky1359
Touring Models
2
07-03-2014 07:04 PM
rounder
Dyna Glide Models
17
05-12-2010 02:01 PM
lowriderrob
Frame/Suspension/Front End/Brakes
3
10-21-2009 02:31 PM



Quick Reply: Font fork bottoming out



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:41 PM.