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sprocket lock tool/ brass in my tranny fluid

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Old 07-12-2012, 12:42 PM
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Default sprocket lock tool/ brass in my tranny fluid

well i found brass rivet pieces in my tranny fluid when i changed it this morning . looks like my clutch pack is about done it has 24,483mi on it and i guess i need to change it before it fails and causes more damage. So i am ordering a clutch pack probably energy one kevlar pack , but i need to find a reasonably priced sprocket lock tool HD part number is hd-38362 dealer wants almost 100.00 for this item i'll use once or twice anyone know of a cheaper alternative ?????
 
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:50 PM
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You can make it yourself. If I recall correctly, it's just a piece of angle iron that is like 4" long or something like that. No need to get all fancy.
 

Last edited by Scuba10jdl; 05-05-2013 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:10 PM
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A 4" brass (butt type) door hinge worked perfectly for me.
Use solid brass, not steel, to prevent accidental damage to the gears.
 
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:28 PM
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do you have the tool to release the spring? also a set of snap ring pliers. be sure to inspect your clutch basket! and dont ride till its fixed.
 
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:27 PM
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As far as the sprocket lock/disassembly of the primary goes, here's a couple thoughts:

1) A hardwood (Hickory/Maple/etc) wedge will work to lock the sprocket while you use an IMPACT WRENCH to remove the left threaded clutch-hub nut, and the drive-sprocket nut that are torqued to an excess of 100ft/lbs.

2) You'll need a clutch spring compressor - if you've got some threaded rod and flat stock, you can make this.

3) Don't scrimp on your c-clip pliers - you really won't save anything.
 
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 1984_FXRT
As far as the sprocket lock/disassembly of the primary goes, here's a couple thoughts:

1) A hardwood (Hickory/Maple/etc) wedge will work to lock the sprocket while you use an IMPACT WRENCH to remove the left threaded clutch-hub nut, and the drive-sprocket nut that are torqued to an excess of 100ft/lbs.

2) You'll need a clutch spring compressor - if you've got some threaded rod and flat stock, you can make this.

3) Don't scrimp on your c-clip pliers - you really won't save anything.

hello and thanks for the replies i think ill get a couple of these suggested parts so i ll have a choice once i open her up , i dont have an impact wrench so ill have to wrestle off the clutch hub nut, im ordering a kit from energy that has the spring compressor and i have a good set of craftsman c-clip pliers so i think ill be ok as long as i get some kind of sprocket lock tool
oh it says in the manual too use locktite 262 red on this repair the hub nut i believe , do i really need red cant i use blue , i know red is kinda permenant. and extremely difficult too get loose

thanks everyone
 
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Old 07-12-2012, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jerryw618
hello and thanks for the replies i think ill get a couple of these suggested parts so i ll have a choice once i open her up , i dont have an impact wrench so ill have to wrestle off the clutch hub nut, im ordering a kit from energy that has the spring compressor and i have a good set of craftsman c-clip pliers so i think ill be ok as long as i get some kind of sprocket lock tool
oh it says in the manual too use locktite 262 red on this repair the hub nut i believe , do i really need red cant i use blue , i know red is kinda permenant. and extremely difficult too get loose

thanks everyone

Use red.... Those two big nuts are subjected to a lot of shock loads - you don't want ;em backing out.
 
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:30 PM
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I know it's obviously been a while...but how did this go for you? I'm at the same stage on my 96 883. I opted for the $12 urethane step-looking tool for locking the chain. The skinny end of it broke off and it's full of some serious teeth marks. I managed to get the clutch nut off by hand...but the engine sprocket nut is a different story. I bent a 12" breaker bar and it didn't budge haha. Im gonna go with the brass hinge "tool" and a bigger breaker bar and see how that goes.

This is also my first post...I've just been creeping around doing a lot of reading for the last six months.
 
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by saintpeeler
I know it's obviously been a while...but how did this go for you? I'm at the same stage on my 96 883. I opted for the $12 urethane step-looking tool for locking the chain. The skinny end of it broke off and it's full of some serious teeth marks. I managed to get the clutch nut off by hand...but the engine sprocket nut is a different story. I bent a 12" breaker bar and it didn't budge haha. Im gonna go with the brass hinge "tool" and a bigger breaker bar and see how that goes.

This is also my first post...I've just been creeping around doing a lot of reading for the last six months.
Refer to my post HERE for some reference.

You'll need something bigger than a 12" bar, and make sure to heat it. That nut is on there with red loctite, which won't release without some heat.
 
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:54 PM
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Dumb question... why are people removing the clutch hub nut and engine sprocket to replace a clutch pack???

I've had my clutch pack apart several times, once to replace discs, few times to test different diaphragm springs, and once for a billet pressure plate. I've NEVER needed to remove the hub or sprocket.
 


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