sprocket lock tool/ brass in my tranny fluid
#1
sprocket lock tool/ brass in my tranny fluid
well i found brass rivet pieces in my tranny fluid when i changed it this morning . looks like my clutch pack is about done it has 24,483mi on it and i guess i need to change it before it fails and causes more damage. So i am ordering a clutch pack probably energy one kevlar pack , but i need to find a reasonably priced sprocket lock tool HD part number is hd-38362 dealer wants almost 100.00 for this item i'll use once or twice anyone know of a cheaper alternative ?????
#5
As far as the sprocket lock/disassembly of the primary goes, here's a couple thoughts:
1) A hardwood (Hickory/Maple/etc) wedge will work to lock the sprocket while you use an IMPACT WRENCH to remove the left threaded clutch-hub nut, and the drive-sprocket nut that are torqued to an excess of 100ft/lbs.
2) You'll need a clutch spring compressor - if you've got some threaded rod and flat stock, you can make this.
3) Don't scrimp on your c-clip pliers - you really won't save anything.
1) A hardwood (Hickory/Maple/etc) wedge will work to lock the sprocket while you use an IMPACT WRENCH to remove the left threaded clutch-hub nut, and the drive-sprocket nut that are torqued to an excess of 100ft/lbs.
2) You'll need a clutch spring compressor - if you've got some threaded rod and flat stock, you can make this.
3) Don't scrimp on your c-clip pliers - you really won't save anything.
#6
As far as the sprocket lock/disassembly of the primary goes, here's a couple thoughts:
1) A hardwood (Hickory/Maple/etc) wedge will work to lock the sprocket while you use an IMPACT WRENCH to remove the left threaded clutch-hub nut, and the drive-sprocket nut that are torqued to an excess of 100ft/lbs.
2) You'll need a clutch spring compressor - if you've got some threaded rod and flat stock, you can make this.
3) Don't scrimp on your c-clip pliers - you really won't save anything.
1) A hardwood (Hickory/Maple/etc) wedge will work to lock the sprocket while you use an IMPACT WRENCH to remove the left threaded clutch-hub nut, and the drive-sprocket nut that are torqued to an excess of 100ft/lbs.
2) You'll need a clutch spring compressor - if you've got some threaded rod and flat stock, you can make this.
3) Don't scrimp on your c-clip pliers - you really won't save anything.
hello and thanks for the replies i think ill get a couple of these suggested parts so i ll have a choice once i open her up , i dont have an impact wrench so ill have to wrestle off the clutch hub nut, im ordering a kit from energy that has the spring compressor and i have a good set of craftsman c-clip pliers so i think ill be ok as long as i get some kind of sprocket lock tool
oh it says in the manual too use locktite 262 red on this repair the hub nut i believe , do i really need red cant i use blue , i know red is kinda permenant. and extremely difficult too get loose
thanks everyone
#7
hello and thanks for the replies i think ill get a couple of these suggested parts so i ll have a choice once i open her up , i dont have an impact wrench so ill have to wrestle off the clutch hub nut, im ordering a kit from energy that has the spring compressor and i have a good set of craftsman c-clip pliers so i think ill be ok as long as i get some kind of sprocket lock tool
oh it says in the manual too use locktite 262 red on this repair the hub nut i believe , do i really need red cant i use blue , i know red is kinda permenant. and extremely difficult too get loose
thanks everyone
oh it says in the manual too use locktite 262 red on this repair the hub nut i believe , do i really need red cant i use blue , i know red is kinda permenant. and extremely difficult too get loose
thanks everyone
Use red.... Those two big nuts are subjected to a lot of shock loads - you don't want ;em backing out.
Trending Topics
#8
I know it's obviously been a while...but how did this go for you? I'm at the same stage on my 96 883. I opted for the $12 urethane step-looking tool for locking the chain. The skinny end of it broke off and it's full of some serious teeth marks. I managed to get the clutch nut off by hand...but the engine sprocket nut is a different story. I bent a 12" breaker bar and it didn't budge haha. Im gonna go with the brass hinge "tool" and a bigger breaker bar and see how that goes.
This is also my first post...I've just been creeping around doing a lot of reading for the last six months.
This is also my first post...I've just been creeping around doing a lot of reading for the last six months.
#9
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio, USA
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 0
Received 209 Likes
on
171 Posts
I know it's obviously been a while...but how did this go for you? I'm at the same stage on my 96 883. I opted for the $12 urethane step-looking tool for locking the chain. The skinny end of it broke off and it's full of some serious teeth marks. I managed to get the clutch nut off by hand...but the engine sprocket nut is a different story. I bent a 12" breaker bar and it didn't budge haha. Im gonna go with the brass hinge "tool" and a bigger breaker bar and see how that goes.
This is also my first post...I've just been creeping around doing a lot of reading for the last six months.
This is also my first post...I've just been creeping around doing a lot of reading for the last six months.
You'll need something bigger than a 12" bar, and make sure to heat it. That nut is on there with red loctite, which won't release without some heat.
#10
Dumb question... why are people removing the clutch hub nut and engine sprocket to replace a clutch pack???
I've had my clutch pack apart several times, once to replace discs, few times to test different diaphragm springs, and once for a billet pressure plate. I've NEVER needed to remove the hub or sprocket.
I've had my clutch pack apart several times, once to replace discs, few times to test different diaphragm springs, and once for a billet pressure plate. I've NEVER needed to remove the hub or sprocket.