Jumping Sportster with Car Battery ? Yes or not?
#31
#32
The point being that you need some amount of residual power in the battery to do it. If your battery is dead-dead you would have to get the engine turning over long enough for the alternator to put some voltage into the system to get the fuel flowing AND generate a spark at the plug and that may take more than a quick spin after a short push.
#33
#34
Just like was said. It would be safe to jump off any batt. Does not matter what size if it's 200cca or 1200cca. It is still 12 volt. Your starter will only pull so many amps. But yes hooking up with car running and alt on car putting out 14.4v may cause some problems you do not want to deal with.
Oh and the voltage regulator should read 14+ volts if working correctly with Rpm's raised.
#35
No problem jumping it
As other people have said just use the battery's juice, DONT run the car... 85 amps will fry your ride. I installed a pigtail off the battery to attach a trickle charger but it works bothways (phone charger, GPS power etc.) and i made a jump start wire with charger clips on one end pig tail connecter on the other. Now I have no worries when it comes to accessories and power.
#37
If 85 amps is all it takes to "fry your ride" then every single car battery on the market today will "fry your ride" many times over. Hell, I used to have an old Lincoln that had a 1,000 amp battery. That's the battery alone, car not running. The tiny little battery in my 2.0 litre 4-cylinder car will put out 575 amps.
The systems will only put out as much amperage as is drawn. Unless you hook something up really wrong, it won't make a damn bit of difference whether the car is running or not. The owner's manual doesn't differentiate between whether or not the car's engine is running, all it cares about is whether the jumping battery is the same voltage (i.e. 12 volt).
The systems will only put out as much amperage as is drawn. Unless you hook something up really wrong, it won't make a damn bit of difference whether the car is running or not. The owner's manual doesn't differentiate between whether or not the car's engine is running, all it cares about is whether the jumping battery is the same voltage (i.e. 12 volt).
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HD_noobie (10-01-2021)
#38
If 85 amps is all it takes to "fry your ride" then every single car battery on the market today will "fry your ride" many times over. Hell, I used to have an old Lincoln that had a 1,000 amp battery. That's the battery alone, car not running. The tiny little battery in my 2.0 litre 4-cylinder car will put out 575 amps.
The systems will only put out as much amperage as is drawn. Unless you hook something up really wrong, it won't make a damn bit of difference whether the car is running or not. The owner's manual doesn't differentiate between whether or not the car's engine is running, all it cares about is whether the jumping battery is the same voltage (i.e. 12 volt).
The systems will only put out as much amperage as is drawn. Unless you hook something up really wrong, it won't make a damn bit of difference whether the car is running or not. The owner's manual doesn't differentiate between whether or not the car's engine is running, all it cares about is whether the jumping battery is the same voltage (i.e. 12 volt).
#39
If it was my only choice because I was in middle of nowhere - sure, but DO NOT START THE CAR'S MOTOR because the extra power from the charging system will possibly destroy the motorcycle's charging system and could cause a fire. The car battery should have enough power to start the motorcycle without the car's motor running.
+1 - Unlike most modern vehicles, Harley uses a "shunt" type voltage regulator which dissipates excess current to ground. DO NOT jump the bike from a running vehicle.
No, it's not a case of 12 volts is 12 volts and this isn't a Honda, you can easily blow your 22 amp regulator by hitting it with 100+ amps from the cage.
No, it's not a case of 12 volts is 12 volts and this isn't a Honda, you can easily blow your 22 amp regulator by hitting it with 100+ amps from the cage.
As other people have said just use the battery's juice, DONT run the car... 85 amps will fry your ride. I installed a pigtail off the battery to attach a trickle charger but it works bothways (phone charger, GPS power etc.) and i made a jump start wire with charger clips on one end pig tail connecter on the other. Now I have no worries when it comes to accessories and power.
As said "DO NOT START THE CAR'S MOTOR"...........
#40
For people wondering why it is bad to have your car running: It involves basic electrical engineering principles. You are bridging two power regulators, the one in you car and the one in your bike. They will be fighting each other for control and the one with the most current capability will win (your car). Potential damage can also occur when jumping two cars together when both are running, even though the charging systems have protection circuitry.
Bridging regulators can be done successfully but it involves having one master and one or more "slave" regulators, but that is not the situation when you connect two running cars together at the battery.
Older vehicles with good old electro-mechanical regulators were pretty bullet proof in that regard. Modern vehicles with all the electronics and computers are vulnerable to something getting fried whenever you jump another vehicle when both are running, and the repair might be a lot more expensive that just buying a new battery.
Bridging regulators can be done successfully but it involves having one master and one or more "slave" regulators, but that is not the situation when you connect two running cars together at the battery.
Older vehicles with good old electro-mechanical regulators were pretty bullet proof in that regard. Modern vehicles with all the electronics and computers are vulnerable to something getting fried whenever you jump another vehicle when both are running, and the repair might be a lot more expensive that just buying a new battery.