I have purchased and installed new bars, including chrome controls, as well as a new chrome caliper. I have also installed a new stainless steal brake line. Here is the problem. I have bleed the **** out of the brake system and still can't get a solid pedal. I bench bleed the master cylinder and know the master cylinder is good. I know its good cause I can hook my old caliper to it, bleed it one time and have a solid pedal. the new caliper has four pistons. Two on each side of the caliper. If you split the caliper there are two holes that allow fluid to pass from one side to the other sealed with o rings. It looks as tho it would be a pain to bleed all the air out. I have tried everything. Reverse bleed, by pushing fluid from bleeder on caliper back up to master cylinder. Vacuum bleeding. Gravity bleed. I mean everything. I can get just enough pressure to move one caliper just a hair but not enough to stop the bike. Even if you pump the brake the pressure won't build. I don't see any leaks either. Any new ideas here would help. I know this is a common problem for most people. Is there a common solution?

 

If your bleeder is not straight up you can remove the caliper & bleed using a piece of wood where the caliper would be.

Are you sure the MC has the volume the new caliper needs?

 

Good question on volume. I ordered everything from demonscycle at one time. Would think they would of caught that. I'm gona call them and ask.

 

Demons Cycle has a pretty bad rep here on the forum. I wouldn't count on them to even fill an order correctly, let alone care whether or not stuff worked together.

mreed is correct, you may need a higher volume MC.

It sounds like you are working on the front-end, but you say you "can't get a solid pedal". Are you talking about the Rear caliper or Front? I've always found the rear much harder to get a good bleed on than the front due to the wheel cylinder being mounted higher than the MC.

 

Hi jlwhitt, I can't offer much help on the caliper specific volume, but here is a link to the video I just used to bleed my front brake. I think he demonstrates the gravity method you were referencing in your OP. Maybe another point of reference might spark something you weren't thinking of...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2vLLC4iC78

...and +1 on demons, I've only had one dealing with them (still ongoing) with a headlight, it arrived with a cracked lens and their customer service and resolution to the situation was/has been sub par. I wouldn't recommend dealing with them.

 

Spoke with dude from demons. He seems to think one of the pistons in the caliper is stuck. I would think that would cause a solid lever with no brakes. Meaning that when you pull the lever it is firm but the caliper pistons don't push out and squeeze the roter. Was hoping he would tell me to ship it to them and he will send me another. Instead he said to. Try and free it up and if i don't have any luck we will go from there. My fuse is getting pretty short with demons as well. All of there parts had half *** instructions if any at all and only half the bolts needed for the application.

 

When I've changed out bars and put new brake lines on, bleeding doesn't immediately work. I always fill the master cylinder, then let it sit for a while. During the time it is sitting I periodically grab the front brake. I always see air bubble up when I do. After a while of lightly grabbing the lever every minute or so (could be a few hours), the lever gets solid enough to bleed it. Then I usually let it sit overnight, during which time it will firm up a little more. Then hit the lever a few more times to get the last air out and top off.

 

 

Would go back to stock but no way to mount it on the springer front end I have installed. I can hook the old caliper up and it works great. Just no way to mount it.

 

I would take it to your mechanic or dealer. I don't play with the brakes if it is questionable.
That's the one area I won't mess with.