Gas tanks, mpg....
#12
Thanks, guys! Been looking here and there at new tanks... I've noticed the vent tube in mine looks like it's rusting, so a new tank may come much sooner than expected/planned! (Why oh why can't they make the tank out of inconel stainless or some other really cool durable stuff!?)
Still, the one on there now holds gasoline in it, with the slight exception of the pinholes up top... So, if the JB I just slapped on tonight cures before the gas eats it, I can simply toss some quickie paint on it to keep it from looking so horrid... But, if the vent tube is rusting, I think I wanna get a new tank in good condition eventually (within 6 mo).... But for now, it's 110% rideable... Just not more than 60% bodyworkable.
- CK
Still, the one on there now holds gasoline in it, with the slight exception of the pinholes up top... So, if the JB I just slapped on tonight cures before the gas eats it, I can simply toss some quickie paint on it to keep it from looking so horrid... But, if the vent tube is rusting, I think I wanna get a new tank in good condition eventually (within 6 mo).... But for now, it's 110% rideable... Just not more than 60% bodyworkable.
- CK
#13
You have a trip meter on your stock speedo.....There's a little rubber nipple that sticks out on the back side of the speedo. Push it to flip regular odometer to trip-meter, and hold in to reset the trip back to 0.....And you use the same button to check your speedo for any DTC's too.
#14
The larger tanks started coming out in something like '04 or so and only on the "Custom" models. All other models got the 3.3 gallon tank. A '01 1200C would have had the 3.3 gallon tank.
#15
wait, are those the big fat wide ugly fat nasty wide ugly tacky ones that are shaped like cockroaches?
Yeah, those are nasty...
But, basically any stock peanuts from 90's to 2003 will be the same tank? Also, what's the deal with the rear mounts being in different spots? I've noticed some tanks (and mine) have the rear mount under the tank, in the channel, where others have what looks like a 6" tail coming out the back, which presumably mounts to the frame under the seat?
Thanks for the info. Love this place!!
Also, update: JB didn't work, and I know exactly why.... It was exactly 20:00 (8pm) when I put the JB on... I went and filled yesterday mid-day because I was bored and riding around... So, when I went to prep the area on the side of the tank, I noticed the gas would NOT stop bleeding from this area!!! I wiped and wiped, but it just kept coming.... So when I finally got ready, I wiped the area, stood the bike up, and spread it on... GREAT!!! .... Now how do I keep the bike upright while still getting a decent amount of sleep tonight? The answer: You don't.
So, I waited about 1.5hrs, until it started getting good and tacky, then laid it back down, capped the tank, and went in to sleep...
Woke up this morning with pinholes over both spots (there's a spot on the top left side, and a spot on the front right top).... I think plugging up the tank caused gas fumes and etc. to go no other place than through the curing JB...
Next time, I'm doing it in the morning, using JB Kwik, and leaving the tank uncapped for the entire duration of the curing time (because I do not have the resources/tools to remove tank and fill with water/sand/other non-flammables).... Other than the gas vapors, the idea was a moderate success.
- CK
Yeah, those are nasty...
But, basically any stock peanuts from 90's to 2003 will be the same tank? Also, what's the deal with the rear mounts being in different spots? I've noticed some tanks (and mine) have the rear mount under the tank, in the channel, where others have what looks like a 6" tail coming out the back, which presumably mounts to the frame under the seat?
Thanks for the info. Love this place!!
Also, update: JB didn't work, and I know exactly why.... It was exactly 20:00 (8pm) when I put the JB on... I went and filled yesterday mid-day because I was bored and riding around... So, when I went to prep the area on the side of the tank, I noticed the gas would NOT stop bleeding from this area!!! I wiped and wiped, but it just kept coming.... So when I finally got ready, I wiped the area, stood the bike up, and spread it on... GREAT!!! .... Now how do I keep the bike upright while still getting a decent amount of sleep tonight? The answer: You don't.
So, I waited about 1.5hrs, until it started getting good and tacky, then laid it back down, capped the tank, and went in to sleep...
Woke up this morning with pinholes over both spots (there's a spot on the top left side, and a spot on the front right top).... I think plugging up the tank caused gas fumes and etc. to go no other place than through the curing JB...
Next time, I'm doing it in the morning, using JB Kwik, and leaving the tank uncapped for the entire duration of the curing time (because I do not have the resources/tools to remove tank and fill with water/sand/other non-flammables).... Other than the gas vapors, the idea was a moderate success.
- CK
#16
#17
I'm not sure they look like cockroaches, but yes, the 4.5 gallon tanks are shorter and fatter than the normal peanut tank. Yes, all you need is a tank from a '96 through '03, and it should mount right up. In '04 the frames were changed on all sporties, and hence the difference in tank mounts.
#18
Not trying to slate, I just don't like them... I think a fat tank on a Sporty looks silly... Still, to each their own.
Also, an update: This week, I ran her down nearly to fumes, cut most of the old JB off down to the holes, and reapplied the JB, mixed at approx. .75:1.25 steel/hardener respectively (quicker curing time, a hair less rigidity). Yesterday around 3pm I applied it, and by 5pm it was solid thanks to this GREAT Texas sun! Also, this time around I kept the gas cap off all day... Probably lost about $2.50 in gas to evaporation, but it was worth it....
Today showed no bubbling, so I cut the JB down, primed, and painted with some cheap Rust-Oleum gloss black (because enamel is not porous, thus keeping rusting away).
It's still lumpy on the left side, but it's MUCH less noticeable unless you're up close and looking hard...
PICS!!!
Before:
Black is paint (noshi-), grey is primer and bondo, almost-white is bare steel, brown is a rusted weld spot. All around this weld spot were pinholes, allowing gas fumes to rot the paint/mud off.
Mid-way:
First night I had her. Scratched the flaking and failing mud/primer/paint down and primed just to seal the area off from moisture. Good thing I did, because it rained like Vietnam in monsoon season last week!! The day after I primed was when I found pinholes leaking gas... The fumes ate through the primer in no time. Also, the spot on the top right of the tank... Paint was flaking but primer was still stuck. I cut the flaking down with 80 grit on a block, then a few days later noticed that the exposed mud had turned rubbery. Cut it down further with 80 shortly before the first JB treatment. Today, I'm happy to report that this area is 90% smooth and finished (just needs a real paintjob, maybe some glaze).
Black once again:
Quickie-masked with last month's Army Times (NOT just a fish wrapper and birdcage liner!), scuffed, and sprayed. Again, it's not finished but it's MUCH less noticeable. I think I'm gonna let it sit for a week or two and see if anything starts failing before doing any serious mud work. Hence why I just 80'd it down and splashed cheap color on it. You can still see 80 scratches everywhere, but that's not important at the moment... I can finally ride around without some huge grey spot on my bike, or worse yet a rash of bondo and rusty bare steel.
Close-up of patches on Patches:
Here, you can see the lack of prep that went into the paintjob (or, the quickie cover that went over the fix-job?)... Again, perfection is less important than simple camouflage... Also you can see the other spot on the gas tank (top Right side of tank)....
^ Paint.
Anyways, WOOHOO! Mostly fixed!
- CK
Also, an update: This week, I ran her down nearly to fumes, cut most of the old JB off down to the holes, and reapplied the JB, mixed at approx. .75:1.25 steel/hardener respectively (quicker curing time, a hair less rigidity). Yesterday around 3pm I applied it, and by 5pm it was solid thanks to this GREAT Texas sun! Also, this time around I kept the gas cap off all day... Probably lost about $2.50 in gas to evaporation, but it was worth it....
Today showed no bubbling, so I cut the JB down, primed, and painted with some cheap Rust-Oleum gloss black (because enamel is not porous, thus keeping rusting away).
It's still lumpy on the left side, but it's MUCH less noticeable unless you're up close and looking hard...
PICS!!!
Before:
Black is paint (noshi-), grey is primer and bondo, almost-white is bare steel, brown is a rusted weld spot. All around this weld spot were pinholes, allowing gas fumes to rot the paint/mud off.
Mid-way:
First night I had her. Scratched the flaking and failing mud/primer/paint down and primed just to seal the area off from moisture. Good thing I did, because it rained like Vietnam in monsoon season last week!! The day after I primed was when I found pinholes leaking gas... The fumes ate through the primer in no time. Also, the spot on the top right of the tank... Paint was flaking but primer was still stuck. I cut the flaking down with 80 grit on a block, then a few days later noticed that the exposed mud had turned rubbery. Cut it down further with 80 shortly before the first JB treatment. Today, I'm happy to report that this area is 90% smooth and finished (just needs a real paintjob, maybe some glaze).
Black once again:
Quickie-masked with last month's Army Times (NOT just a fish wrapper and birdcage liner!), scuffed, and sprayed. Again, it's not finished but it's MUCH less noticeable. I think I'm gonna let it sit for a week or two and see if anything starts failing before doing any serious mud work. Hence why I just 80'd it down and splashed cheap color on it. You can still see 80 scratches everywhere, but that's not important at the moment... I can finally ride around without some huge grey spot on my bike, or worse yet a rash of bondo and rusty bare steel.
Close-up of patches on Patches:
Here, you can see the lack of prep that went into the paintjob (or, the quickie cover that went over the fix-job?)... Again, perfection is less important than simple camouflage... Also you can see the other spot on the gas tank (top Right side of tank)....
^ Paint.
Anyways, WOOHOO! Mostly fixed!
- CK
Last edited by ceekay; 05-13-2012 at 08:08 PM.
#19
I have a Sportster 48 1200 (intake and exhaust). The milage varies GREATLY. On the highway, I have gotten the advertised 48MPG. Stop and go cruising around the neighborhood is a whole different story. Even in the 30s at times which gets quite frustrating with the humongous 2.1 gallon fuel tank. I am learning that I actually get better gas milage waiting to go into 5th until I'm truly at highway speeds.
#20
Good looking fix.
Haaa,, found the button once I looked. The Enfields have trained me to expect no conveniences.
Unrelated but on the pinhole leak, someone once told me to rub the outside of the hole real hard with a bar of bath soap. It will fill the hole and jell up, last until the rain washes it away and then you just repeat. Never tried it myself.
You have a trip meter on your stock speedo.....There's a little rubber nipple that sticks out on the back side of the speedo. Push it to flip regular odometer to trip-meter, and hold in to reset the trip back to 0.....And you use the same button to check your speedo for any DTC's too.
Unrelated but on the pinhole leak, someone once told me to rub the outside of the hole real hard with a bar of bath soap. It will fill the hole and jell up, last until the rain washes it away and then you just repeat. Never tried it myself.