While drunk last night I had what I thought was a great idea
#42
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frozelandia, Minnysota
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This bike will be rarely ridden, it's not my daily rider like most of your sporties are for you. At least 90% of my riding will be on the vrod. This thing is for parking lot shows, that's it.
Answer the question asked, or go the f' home. Pontificating not appreciated.
This bike will be rarely ridden, it's not my daily rider like most of your sporties are for you. At least 90% of my riding will be on the vrod. This thing is for parking lot shows, that's it.
Answer the question asked, or go the f' home. Pontificating not appreciated.
#43
Some folks here don't have enough experience to know much about front/rear brake dynamics, but, thinking about it, should have realized someone that could do what you're trying to do would know what they're doing, not to mention, build a bike like that. No more pontificating. Plenty of reasonable answers to your question, I'd expect the hand brake mod to work fine, too. Like that paint job.
#44
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frozelandia, Minnysota
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#45
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Smack Dab in the Middle of Louisiana
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I'm a newbie so this sparked my interest... I also drive a jeep and this is how I slow down. I use the motor to slow me down and clutch my way through the gears to a crawl then apply the brakes. It's just the way I've done it. Is there anything wrong with doing that with my Harley?
It will work if you don't play Rock Roy the stock car boy and be a gear jammer.
If your drag racing, I am sure your gonna jam some gears for a few seconds and the distance of a 1/4 mile. That is what drag racing is all about.
Although, if you start jammin gears that way while your slowing down you will tear stuff up.
Think about the technique that the Grand Prix drivers use when racing and they work at synchronizing themselves with the machine.
It is about the Zen of motorcycle riding.
The one thing I think a lot of people for get about brakes is they are just a system that applies the theory of physics........
The Brakes don't stop you, they are the device that delivers the forces of motion/lack of motion.
Yup, that right I said that brakes do not stop you.....Friction Stops you, brakes are the apparatuses that deliver the friction. "It's Motion in Dynamics"
Hey Y'all have a great night, and a better tomorrow........
#46
Lots of great ideas but I'm done spending a lot of time and money on this bike. It is my in between chopper. I'm moving in a few months but after that I'm going to begin building my dream chopper, I've posted a pic of it before....here is again. Going for almost an exact dupe...
#47
I hesitate to even reply to this because you're super defensive and I don't want to be associated with how you come across on this forum.
I know a guy with his brake set up this way and it's just fine.
To reply to the other guys' statements about you eventually crashing: I have several bikes with only a rear brake. Three, of which, have a MECHANICAL DRUM rear brake. I still have the foot brake since I want to keep the handlebars clean but that's neither here nor there. I handle these bikes just fine but I don't ride like an idiot. I understand the differences my bike set ups have compared to stock bikes and adjust my riding to suit.
I think you could simply modify a clutch perch and use a clutch cable to actuate your existing brake mechanism. Yours currently pushes to operate but it wouldn't be too difficult to add a little mechanical advantage to change it to a pull. On my Nightster I'll be using a set up like this but for a front brake...and I won't have handlebar switches to deal with.
I know a guy with his brake set up this way and it's just fine.
To reply to the other guys' statements about you eventually crashing: I have several bikes with only a rear brake. Three, of which, have a MECHANICAL DRUM rear brake. I still have the foot brake since I want to keep the handlebars clean but that's neither here nor there. I handle these bikes just fine but I don't ride like an idiot. I understand the differences my bike set ups have compared to stock bikes and adjust my riding to suit.
I think you could simply modify a clutch perch and use a clutch cable to actuate your existing brake mechanism. Yours currently pushes to operate but it wouldn't be too difficult to add a little mechanical advantage to change it to a pull. On my Nightster I'll be using a set up like this but for a front brake...and I won't have handlebar switches to deal with.
Last edited by mreed; 04-23-2012 at 06:52 AM.
#48
I hesitate to even reply to this because you're super defensive and I don't want to be associated with how you come across on this forum.
I know a guy with his brake set up this way and it's just fine.
To reply to the other guys' statements about you eventually crashing: I have several bikes with only a rear brake. Three, of which, have a MECHANICAL DRUM rear brake. I still have the foot brake since I want to keep the handlebars clean but that's neither here nor there. I handle these bikes just fine but I don't ride like an idiot. I understand the differences my bike set ups have compared to stock bikes and adjust my riding to suit.
I think you could simply modify a clutch perch and use a clutch cable to actuate your existing brake mechanism. Yours currently pushes to operate but it wouldn't be too difficult to add a little mechanical advantage to change it to a pull. On my Nightster I'll be using a set up like this but for a front brake...and I won't have handlebar switches to deal with.
I know a guy with his brake set up this way and it's just fine.
To reply to the other guys' statements about you eventually crashing: I have several bikes with only a rear brake. Three, of which, have a MECHANICAL DRUM rear brake. I still have the foot brake since I want to keep the handlebars clean but that's neither here nor there. I handle these bikes just fine but I don't ride like an idiot. I understand the differences my bike set ups have compared to stock bikes and adjust my riding to suit.
I think you could simply modify a clutch perch and use a clutch cable to actuate your existing brake mechanism. Yours currently pushes to operate but it wouldn't be too difficult to add a little mechanical advantage to change it to a pull. On my Nightster I'll be using a set up like this but for a front brake...and I won't have handlebar switches to deal with.
Regarding me being defensive - I'm PISSED, not defensive about my situation but I know it might seem otherwise. I get so freaking pissed at people responding to everyone's (not just mine) questions with stuff that has nothing to do with what the OP asks that it has become a pet peeve. There's this guy a few cubes down from me who has the most annoying voice, like a drone, he drones on in monotone regardless of what subject he's discussing. I can't ignore his voice, and it drives me nuts! Same thing with people offering opinions that weren't asked for, I can't ignore it. So now that I've said that you fuggers will give me nothing but unasked for opinions from now on! I would expect nothing less.
#49
if it were me, i'd try to retro fit a buell first-gen ZTL rotor and six-piston caliper to the outside of the rim. cleaner look, better brake leverage, lighter rotational mass. since its actually a front brake, a standard master cyl should fill it.
i'd also look for one of those old firestone tires that are kinda flat. they have a huge contact patch. my old chop had a rear drum and no front brake. with that tire, the bike would stop well (all things considered)
i'd also look for one of those old firestone tires that are kinda flat. they have a huge contact patch. my old chop had a rear drum and no front brake. with that tire, the bike would stop well (all things considered)
#50