If you're only going to run a rear brake (that's the part I'd call not the best idea) I can't see any reason not to control it with the lever. The challenge will be figuring out how to make that work. The lever/cable works on the pull while the linkage for the rear brake works on the push.

If you work it out it will fit really well with your forum name - - you're bike will be a motorized Schwinn.

 

If it's a hydraulic brake he should be able to run a longer hose off the "front brake" master cylinder. Not sure if he wants to lose the foot pedal though.

edit
ok just re-read the post

not sure if you want to spend the bucks you could put a rotor/ pulley on and work that with the hand brake.

 

Ohhh I've thought all about this and many other options. Rollin on this bobber is a lot of fun on steep incline/declines and coming to a stop while still in gear and timing the braking and throwing down your right foot is buckets o fun. I got used to it, but it took a few months to build confidence.



Notice all my hand controls!!! LOL!

 

Thanks for the reply, but I want to point out that your comment is not completely accurate. The linkage is different, but the brake works the same. The rear brake is activated with the same hydraulic action as is the front. The brake pedal pushes a rod that connects to the master cylinder - same setup as the front, different linkage is all.

I would simply remove the brake pedal, linkage, and master cylinder and use the hand control and its master cylinder to do the same.

Not trying to be a dick here! (just comes naturally)

 

No offense taken - you must be an amateur dick.

Naturally both m/cs work on the same hydraulic action - my point was about activating the m/c. And yes, technically even that is the same in that "pulling" the lever "pushes" a rod into the front m/c. Still, you need to get a connection of some sort from the lever to the rear m/c. I was thinking cable (not hyd line) from the leave (think clutch) back to some way to activate the rear m/c - hence the "push vs pull" issue.

Seems your idea is to scrap the rear m/c and run a long line from the bar-mounted m/c back to the brake and that would certainly work. Guess in my mind, from looking at your bike, I assumed you wouldn't want to clutter up the bars with a m/c. If that doesn't bother you, this will work.

 

Why not put the front brake back on? That would be a moment of genius . They make some good looking small add ons that work.

 

Not so easy, and not completely necessary. The front fork legs have been turned down on a lathe, the brake mounts are gone.

 

Drinking Alcohol May Significantly Enhance Problem Solving SkillsNo input on your rear brake activation with the hand control specifically, but thought you might get a kick out of the article.

 

How drunk were you when you decided to take off the front brake?

 

Please forgive my ignorance if this question sounds stupid, as I am a novice (motorcycle) wrench turner, but would the front m/c hold enough volume of fluid to travel all that way and supply the needed pressure to drive the calipers? Seems you would have to use a smaller diameter brake line. Just a thought........a sober one.