Hi guys

Question, I notice on my 2005 1200R that after about running 30 minutes or so and the bike gets fully warmed up it will sometimes idle real high when I come to a stop light. Say 1300rpm and it wont really drop down. Not always but enough to borther me. I have yet to make Any Changes to the Stock intake/carb or exhaust.

Do I just need to redo the idle and / or will a free flowing aircleaner/jet kit be needed and will the FF Aircleaner and jet kit take care of the problem. Thanks...

LV

 

You might check to see if the carb has hung up on the high idle cam. If that isn't the problem, and even if it is, since this is an '05, let Mr. Dealer spend some of his HD profits and fix it.

 

My 05 1200C sometimes does the same thing. I thought at first the throttle cable might be sticking, but not the case. At the 1K service I mentioned it to the mechanic, but he could not duplicate the condition. Blipping the throttle does not cause it to idle back down, and it onlly does it once in a while.
Never heard of the high idle cam on this model, what's that about?
WT

 

I'm actually shootin' in the wind on this. My bike has the old butterfly Keihin, instead of the CV y'all have. Anyway, my choke has a cam on the side of the carb. When I barely pull the choke out the cam sets the carb up for fast idle. I have caught myself several times not pushing the choke completely in. The idle would sometimes be normal, sometimes be high.

Like I said, I ain't familiar with the CV. Probably has an enrichener instead of a choke, but there might be some sort of fast idle circuitry involved. It's a pain trying to dupe the situation for a mech to see. Never happens when you take it in, but I'd take it back, especially if it's under warranty, if only to document the problem.

Can y'all look at the actual throttle cable position when this happens? That'd at least give you an idea whether it's cable related. I'm gonna drop in on a couple other boards and see if anybody else has run across this.

 

Agreed if I'm sitting at a light and I try to blip it it doesnt solve it. With the massive stock air cleaner in the way it hard to see anything carb related such as cables or any type of high idle cam. Choke/enricher seems to be pushed in all the way. Another thing is if while ideling high I kill the motor and then restart it it will idle fine. Thought about taking it to the dealer but kind of figured it had to do with the bike being all plugged up from the factory. I was going to pull the aircleaner next time it does it but it's been cold and rainy here is florida so I havent had a chance to really ride or check it yet. [:@] I will let you know what I find out. Thanks...


LV

 

Her's a response from The Horse tech board:

Couple of possibilities occur to me. One being that the choke piston isn't seating all the
way when the button is pushed in and it is allowing extra gas to enter the intake. This being the case, the computer could be sensing the mixture change and trying to compensate for it. The other is that the computer itself is trying to compensate for something it believes is a problem. A bad sensor could be randomly or sporadically giving up faulty readings or a connection in the relevant wiring circuit is dirty or loose or damaged and causing extra resistance which the computer could be reading as a signal variance and being trying to adjust for. Could even be something as lame as a diry air filter causing a ratio change in the air fuel with the consequence that the computer thinks it needs to fiddle its directions to the ignition timing. I am no H.D. computer guru so take these for exactly what they are, simple speculation on my part.

 

And here's something from the MSN Harley Tech Talk board:

HD engines seem to have two "warms". Mine will warm up in a few minutes or few
miles where the whole block and cases feel really warm and the idle is perfect. Feels
like it stays that way for another good ten or more miles and I come across a real fast
idle at a stop sign or light. Now, the entire drivetrain is warm. The primary's good n'
hot, the trans is too and they are cooking off water vapor. The internal friction is at a
minimum now and the idle compensates by simply having less work to slow it down.
Now that I have a tach, the difference is a good 100 rpms, so it's set low and lopey.

That's just the way my '96 Sporty acted and now '01 Dyna does. This may not be across
the board but I got two HD's in a row with two idle speeds. No other factors. Seals and
gaskets kept in good order on both machines. Idle speeds were set warm at home, but
not hot (true running temp), then adjusted at the end of a ride.......hot.

It's a small but annoying issue.
Good luck nailing it down,
Cheap

 

Pococj

Thanks for the reply's. To the first one I would say well it's possible but with only 450 miles on the odometer its hard for me to believe a bad sensor or computer adjustment.

The Second reply sounds Much more likley. Ive noticed with mine that it's cold at first and then seems to get warm and runs perfect just like the guys states. After running a while when everything is good and hot is when I get the high idle situation. Im going to play with the idle the first good long ride I can take.

Very irritating sitting at a red light with cars around me and ideling at 1300 rpms and I cant do a think about it donr you know.

Thanks again

LV

 

It's a crap shoot diagnosing a electrical problem without the proper equipment.
With that said, knowing it only has 450 miles on her, she's not even broke in.
Maybe she just needs road. [sm=goodidea.gif]
However, I wouldn't hesitate to do as pococj said, take her in for a check-up and document the problem... no matter how small. That's the benefit of having a warranty.

Let us know what you find out.

 

It sounds like your 'slide' in your carb might be hanging somewhat, possibly having a bur or something, unless you have some kind of interference with your linkage and or throttle cables.