temp or pressure probably.

 

I've made a lot of progress since the last post. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to take many pictures because the garage is too dark.

I got the sprocket I mentioned in my first post. In 1991-1992 model years, Harley had a chain drive option. This sprocket is for those models. Trying to get the transmission lock nut off so I could swap the pulley for the sprocket took quite awhile. Since I didn't have a belt or any way to lock the pulley down so it didn't turn made getting the thing off a chore. I broke 3 pairs of vice grips, 4 bolts and twisted the lug on a 1/2" drive breaker bar trying to get it off. I finally got an impact driver and it came off in about 10 seconds. The sprocket ended up fitting the shaft, but it is 3/16" too narrow. I created a shim using six 1 1/4" reducer plates for electrical junction boxes stacked in front of the sprocket to make up the 3/16". Drilled the shims with the hole for the small keeper bolt. Sprocket is on and the chain is running straight from the rear sprocket to the transmission sprocket. Wheel and chain spins great. No binding, no chaffing.

I ordered a set of forward controls. The cost of a new sprocket cover and all the parts I was going to need to put the mid controls back on ended up being about the same as a set of forwards. Got everything mounted up, and had to figure out how I was going to mount the rear master cylinder. I ended up drilling and tapping the case where the Sportster sprocket cover mounts, then drilled my old sprocket cover. The 1991+ sprocket cover had the rear mounting hole moved about 1/4" rearward and slightly higher than a 1990 cover. A simple adjustment then I was able to attach the rear master cylinder to its stock location and connect it up to the new forward controls.

Saturday, I finished up the last bits of putting everything back together. Filled the oil tank and primary, filled the gas tank and installed the battery which had been sitting on the trickle charger so it was all charged up. Finished all of this at about 10:30pm Saturday night. Went to start it and had gas gushing out of the carb. Found a crack in the plastic connector for the fuel line. A bit of super glue closed the crack up. Continued trying to start it and had a huge backfire out of the carb that blew the carb off the manifold. After some more fiddling, I gave up for the night.

Sunday I went back to trying to get her started. Engine is turning over, but it's not firing. I know it's getting air and fuel, so I check for spark and there is no spark. Damn. Neither spark plug is firing. I knew the electrical was going together too easy. I'm starting at the battery and working my way back to the spark plugs. There has to be something I missed or wires I crossed somewhere. Everything worked prior to the original breakdown and the breakdown had nothing to do with the electrical system so it all should be working fine. Sheesh, I hate electrical problems.

The good thing is that everything else seems to be working as it's supposed to. Once I figure out the ignition problem, she should fire right up. It's been a long road, and there is a light at the end of the tunnel.

I've started looking for a springer to swap my front wheel with the Road King wheel that I have. Going to swap to a spring solo seat and new bars as well, but until I have a running engine this stuff will have to wait.

 

It was the oil pressure switch. I replaced it with the switch out of my old engine. Fit like a glove.

 

cool man, glad to hear it's coming along.

 

Check your ignition plate. It needs to be a solid one not one with slots in it

 

The OP hasn't been online since 2012, when this thread was created.

 

I test rode one of those Buells new and I don't think you'd want to put less cam in it. They are very tractable from right off idle. It was a very cold early spring morning up in Duluth MN. I looked down at the speedo indicating 80mph with the throttle hardly cracked is what I remember.

 

Zombies!

John