Nightster Winter Makeover
#261
Yeah, their only 10.25". And Wilwood doesnt make that size. Guess Ill either have to not put it on or get a different caliper. Does your rear caliper have an arm that attaches to the rear axle, and the other end just slips around the swingarm? Im guessing thats the difference, the length of that arm. Mreed, do you know what year they changed?
#262
That's cast aluminum. You can make anything work. pre 04 will require welding a slide to your swingarm. Anything 04 to 2010 will work but you may need to drill the hole to match your axle...which is pretty simple.
Sorry to jack your thread man.
Rog, feel free to PM me if you need more help.
Sorry to jack your thread man.
Rog, feel free to PM me if you need more help.
No apologies necessary, guys. This is all good stuff.
#264
But as has been pointed out previously by others, I've gone this far with it, invested this much time and money and effort, I don't want to cut too many corners now and regret it down the road. I plan on keeping this baby for a lot of years. I just gotta keep pushing and complete what I can with whatever time I have available. Eventually it will get done.
#265
Hell yea man! Gonna be awesome and I know you won't regret it. I've spend too damn much time and money just on rear LED lighting. Just found, and will order these today: http://www.customdynamics.com/Images...t_a_small.jpeg
Leaving the front incan so I don't have to run a load equalizer, but upgrading them to 2457 (I think it is) so I have the same output running light, but much improved signaling.
I kept my mods a LOT more simple, yet I'm STILL waiting on parts.
Leaving the front incan so I don't have to run a load equalizer, but upgrading them to 2457 (I think it is) so I have the same output running light, but much improved signaling.
I kept my mods a LOT more simple, yet I'm STILL waiting on parts.
#266
Hell yea man! Gonna be awesome and I know you won't regret it. I've spend too damn much time and money just on rear LED lighting. Just found, and will order these today: http://www.customdynamics.com/Images...t_a_small.jpeg
Leaving the front incan so I don't have to run a load equalizer, but upgrading them to 2457 (I think it is) so I have the same output running light, but much improved signaling.
I kept my mods a LOT more simple, yet I'm STILL waiting on parts.
Leaving the front incan so I don't have to run a load equalizer, but upgrading them to 2457 (I think it is) so I have the same output running light, but much improved signaling.
I kept my mods a LOT more simple, yet I'm STILL waiting on parts.
To replace the rear running/brake light (For non-Nightster owners, there is no tail light on the Nightster...the rear outriggers, in addition to being turn signals, also function as the running and brake lights) I've got a six inch LED light bar that will be mounted under the end of the rear fender, thusly. It's completely red for running/brake operation and flashes amber on the appropriate side in conjunction with the bar end turn signals.
I know I'm gonna have to rejigger the existing wiring to make this set up work properly but I haven't given it much thought yet. And I don't have any idea if I'll need a load equalizer or not. I'll get to it. But I think I'm gonna like the cleaner look of no obvious turn signals hanging off the forks and rear fender.
#267
Yea, that's gonna be awesome man. I considered something like that, but didn't want the obvious look of high tech. Unfortunately there's no way now of hiding my huge LED tails with my simple drop-in. Oh well, leaves room for improvement down the road. Seriously can't wait to see your's "done".
#268
The Vulcan wide glide front end has been giving me some problems from the beginning. First, they sent me a 25mm axel with the wide glide kit, but my Nightster has a 3/4" axel on the front. So, I called and they sent me a 3/4" axel. Which appeared fine...but they didn't send me any 3/4" spacers. So, I called and they sent me a single 2" long spacer. huh? So, I called again and they sent me two spacers that appeared to be the right size. But, when I finally got around to mounting the wheel I realized that they sent me what appears to be the axel for a stock narrow glide wheel for mounting in a wide glide front end. Here's the axel in the wide glide front end. You can see that the left side shoulder of the axel is way too long for a 16x3" wheel. Notice the long shoulder on the left side of the axel. That butts up against the wheel bearing and of course that had the wheel shifted way right in the forks. What a pain in my ***.
Ahh well. Instead of sending it back for a new one we simply chucked the axel up in the lathe and turned the shoulder down to create the proper spacing. It's fine now but without a lathe I would have been waiting yet another axel from Vulcan.
I have to say that while the Vulcan kit is of high quality, it hasn't been quite as easy an install as I had hoped it would be. I know rickss69 and other members have bought the Vulcan kit and had great success with it. I'm not bashing it by any means. But if you decide to go that route you need to know exactly what you need, articulate it in detail when you order and check the components very carefully when they arrive. I'm a noob and just assumed that they would send me all the right stuff the first time.
The other issue we had to deal with before finishing off the front end was the inner spacer that fits on the inside of the wheel between the bearings. The 16" wheel originally had a 25mm axel so the spacer was too big for my 3/4" axel. At first I was gonna just find a scrap piece of steel round bar, turn it down to the right OD, drill it for 3/4" ID and chop it to the right length. But instead, I found a piece of steel tubing in the shop that had a 3/4" ID and fit perfectly inside of the 25mm spacer. All I had to do was cut it down to the right width, finish off the ends and slide it into the original spacer.
Slid the whole assembly into the wheel, pressed the new 25mm wheel bearings into place and with the newly machined axel we will be able to get the front wheel mounted up. But, I ran out of time and didn't get the wheel bolted on before I had to leave.
Next weekend I hope to make more progress...
Ahh well. Instead of sending it back for a new one we simply chucked the axel up in the lathe and turned the shoulder down to create the proper spacing. It's fine now but without a lathe I would have been waiting yet another axel from Vulcan.
I have to say that while the Vulcan kit is of high quality, it hasn't been quite as easy an install as I had hoped it would be. I know rickss69 and other members have bought the Vulcan kit and had great success with it. I'm not bashing it by any means. But if you decide to go that route you need to know exactly what you need, articulate it in detail when you order and check the components very carefully when they arrive. I'm a noob and just assumed that they would send me all the right stuff the first time.
The other issue we had to deal with before finishing off the front end was the inner spacer that fits on the inside of the wheel between the bearings. The 16" wheel originally had a 25mm axel so the spacer was too big for my 3/4" axel. At first I was gonna just find a scrap piece of steel round bar, turn it down to the right OD, drill it for 3/4" ID and chop it to the right length. But instead, I found a piece of steel tubing in the shop that had a 3/4" ID and fit perfectly inside of the 25mm spacer. All I had to do was cut it down to the right width, finish off the ends and slide it into the original spacer.
Slid the whole assembly into the wheel, pressed the new 25mm wheel bearings into place and with the newly machined axel we will be able to get the front wheel mounted up. But, I ran out of time and didn't get the wheel bolted on before I had to leave.
Next weekend I hope to make more progress...
#269
I did much the same Ergo, but used another spacer. I cut it a little shorter than the axle spacer as it's only function was to take up space inside the hub and keep the spacer aligned with the bearing holes should it decide to shift. Only the inner spacer is in contact with the bearing shoulder this way.
Can't for the life of me think why they did not send you the two proper spacers...
Can't for the life of me think why they did not send you the two proper spacers...
#270