sportster primary
#11
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Right about the middle
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I run Mobil 1 V-twin in both holes.
Most will recommend changing the oil prior to winter rather than in the spring then you will have fresh oil in the bike through the winter. The argument on this is that carbon in the oil stored over the winter is hard on the cylinder walls, crankcase, etc.
I'm on the fence on this one, but I plan on riding some throughout the winter when weather permits. I've got about 2,000 miles on my engine oil right now & I think I'm gonna leave it an change it when spring comes. However, I've got fresh oil in the primary/tranny because I had to replace an o-ring on my clutch cable about 500 miles ago.
Most will recommend changing the oil prior to winter rather than in the spring then you will have fresh oil in the bike through the winter. The argument on this is that carbon in the oil stored over the winter is hard on the cylinder walls, crankcase, etc.
I'm on the fence on this one, but I plan on riding some throughout the winter when weather permits. I've got about 2,000 miles on my engine oil right now & I think I'm gonna leave it an change it when spring comes. However, I've got fresh oil in the primary/tranny because I had to replace an o-ring on my clutch cable about 500 miles ago.
#12
eh, I ride a pretty fair ammount, around 10K a year in the northeast, and I don't worry about it so much. I have never heard of rings or cylinders or pistons or anything else breaking because the user put the bike away for the winter with old oil in it... but I'm willing to entertain stories to the contrary.
#13
While there is no doubt that the M1 75w90 gear lube does an excellent job at keeping the gears lubed and running smoothly there is a problem. The stator is bathed in that same lube and there is no question that the yellow metals do not do too well with the sulfer. Mobils statement on their 75w90s compatibility with yellow metals http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...hronizers.aspx.
Nuff said
RAL
Nuff said
RAL
#15
While there is no doubt that the M1 75w90 gear lube does an excellent job at keeping the gears lubed and running smoothly there is a problem. The stator is bathed in that same lube and there is no question that the yellow metals do not do too well with the sulfer. Mobils statement on their 75w90s compatibility with yellow metals http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...hronizers.aspx.
Nuff said
RAL
Nuff said
RAL
#16
With a little searching you will find all too many experiences similar to his. Too many for me to just shrug off. It might be different if all the other choices were crap lubes but that is not the case. As in most things there is no absolute guaranty. In the end you place your bet where you see the best odds.
RAL
#17
#18
I would advise strongly AGAINST using the Mobil 1 gear oil in the Sportster transmission. I used it in my 2004 Sporty, and my wife's 2006. Had to replace the clutch in mine at 18k, and the clutch AND stator in hers at similar intervals. I think something in the Mobil 1 ate the brass rivets in the clutches and messed up the stator. No scientific proof, just my experience. Stick with Formula + is my advice.... (We both have Softails now, but I still use Formula + in the primaries and Spectro Platinum gear oil in the trannies)
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#19
I just called Royal Purple to see what they said about it and their Max Gear lube like I was going to use is completely non-corrosive to all metals, however they all contain friction modifier for limited slip applications...not good in a clutch. FYI.
They said to use their Max Cycle 20w50 lube in the crankcase and Max Cycle 10w30 in the primary. I'll probably just use the synthetic HD stuff...at least in the primary.
They said to use their Max Cycle 20w50 lube in the crankcase and Max Cycle 10w30 in the primary. I'll probably just use the synthetic HD stuff...at least in the primary.
Last edited by Jackal; 11-10-2011 at 03:30 PM.