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  #11  
Old 11-10-2011, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Sharkman73
I run Mobil 1 V-twin in both holes.

Most will recommend changing the oil prior to winter rather than in the spring then you will have fresh oil in the bike through the winter. The argument on this is that carbon in the oil stored over the winter is hard on the cylinder walls, crankcase, etc.

I'm on the fence on this one, but I plan on riding some throughout the winter when weather permits. I've got about 2,000 miles on my engine oil right now & I think I'm gonna leave it an change it when spring comes. However, I've got fresh oil in the primary/tranny because I had to replace an o-ring on my clutch cable about 500 miles ago.
Carbon? Not really. It's actually due to used oil absorbing combustion by-products like sulfur,which turn to sulfuric acid. Carbon doesn't do any damage when the bike is sitting. Sulfuric acid however will affect gaskets for sure.
 
  #12  
Old 11-10-2011, 10:47 AM
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eh, I ride a pretty fair ammount, around 10K a year in the northeast, and I don't worry about it so much. I have never heard of rings or cylinders or pistons or anything else breaking because the user put the bike away for the winter with old oil in it... but I'm willing to entertain stories to the contrary.
 
  #13  
Old 11-10-2011, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by SportyPig
Mobil-1 GEAR oil...75 w 90.
While there is no doubt that the M1 75w90 gear lube does an excellent job at keeping the gears lubed and running smoothly there is a problem. The stator is bathed in that same lube and there is no question that the yellow metals do not do too well with the sulfer. Mobils statement on their 75w90s compatibility with yellow metals http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...hronizers.aspx.

Nuff said

RAL
 
  #14  
Old 11-10-2011, 12:50 PM
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Thanks R, my instincts served me well using the Formula+.
 
  #15  
Old 11-10-2011, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RAL
While there is no doubt that the M1 75w90 gear lube does an excellent job at keeping the gears lubed and running smoothly there is a problem. The stator is bathed in that same lube and there is no question that the yellow metals do not do too well with the sulfer. Mobils statement on their 75w90s compatibility with yellow metals http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...hronizers.aspx.

Nuff said

RAL
The Mobil response is vety interesting. I just looked at a bottle of Drag Specialties Sportster primay fluid, and guess what? It is GL-5 rated. This is going to merit more investigation.
 
  #16  
Old 11-10-2011, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by fdh161
The Mobil response is vety interesting. I just looked at a bottle of Drag Specialties Sportster primay fluid, and guess what? It is GL-5 rated. This is going to merit more investigation.
We all have to make our own call on these matters.....Check out post #38 on the synthetic oil thread that is currently running.
With a little searching you will find all too many experiences similar to his. Too many for me to just shrug off. It might be different if all the other choices were crap lubes but that is not the case. As in most things there is no absolute guaranty. In the end you place your bet where you see the best odds.


RAL
 
  #17  
Old 11-10-2011, 01:26 PM
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Good thread.. On my 2 Enfields I run ATF-F as it has friction modifiers and all that good stuff for the clutch.. Also since it is red you can tell were you are leaking from when the time comes.. Guess I will run it in my HD as well, makes shopping easier.
 
  #18  
Old 11-10-2011, 01:49 PM
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I would advise strongly AGAINST using the Mobil 1 gear oil in the Sportster transmission. I used it in my 2004 Sporty, and my wife's 2006. Had to replace the clutch in mine at 18k, and the clutch AND stator in hers at similar intervals. I think something in the Mobil 1 ate the brass rivets in the clutches and messed up the stator. No scientific proof, just my experience. Stick with Formula + is my advice.... (We both have Softails now, but I still use Formula + in the primaries and Spectro Platinum gear oil in the trannies)
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  #19  
Old 11-10-2011, 03:12 PM
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I just called Royal Purple to see what they said about it and their Max Gear lube like I was going to use is completely non-corrosive to all metals, however they all contain friction modifier for limited slip applications...not good in a clutch. FYI.

They said to use their Max Cycle 20w50 lube in the crankcase and Max Cycle 10w30 in the primary. I'll probably just use the synthetic HD stuff...at least in the primary.
 

Last edited by Jackal; 11-10-2011 at 03:30 PM.
  #20  
Old 11-10-2011, 04:06 PM
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Running the Harley 20W -50 Screaming Eagle SYN 3 in mine.Just switched to it a week ago.
 

Last edited by Brion B; 11-10-2011 at 04:10 PM.


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