Exhaust Advice
#1
#2
Use the search window, and you'll find literally thousands of posts on exhaust for XL's everything from slip ons to $1000 2 into 1 systems and everything in between. There are some nice slip-on options out there if you just want a little more sound...
#3
Here is one of the threads that Seabee is referring to: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...-slip-ons.html
It has before and after videos of he Screamin Eagle Street Performance slip-ons that I put on my '08 1200 Custom and includes others comments on them. They may be what you are looking for--they are significantly louder, but not "ridiculous" and are street legal in all 50 states.
It has before and after videos of he Screamin Eagle Street Performance slip-ons that I put on my '08 1200 Custom and includes others comments on them. They may be what you are looking for--they are significantly louder, but not "ridiculous" and are street legal in all 50 states.
#4
Spend some time over on youtube and do a search on sportster exhaust. You'll not only see the pipes, you'll hear them.
Here's a start: http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...8+exhaust&aq=f
I will have gone through 3 different exhausts in the last 12 months....
When I first got this sporty, I went with a set X14ieD's for a better air to fuel ratio along with a pair of Screamin' Eagle SP slip-on's and a K&N filter in the OEM airbox. That set up really smoothed out the sporty's low speed manners and improved overall rideability.
After a few months I changed out the Screamin' Eagle SP mufflers for a set of Rush slip-ons with 1-3/4" baffles. As soon as I did that, the bike ran way too lean even with the X14ieD's. The Rush pipes flowed so much better that I needed a different fuel manager. I went with Cobra's simple 3 pot controller (FI2000R) and bypassed the O2 sensors to run only in 'open loop'. Hugh difference in performance with that combination. A month later, swapped the OEM intake for NRHS's round and that really woke everything up. Power delivery is well balanced across the entire rpm range with no gaps or flat spots.
Now I'm looking at going to a 2 into 1 exhaust system for a more mellow sound and a squeak better low end torque. I'm leaning towards Drag Specialties' Python 1800-0494. It's made by V&H and is very similar to their Pro-pipe.
~
Here's a start: http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...8+exhaust&aq=f
I will have gone through 3 different exhausts in the last 12 months....
When I first got this sporty, I went with a set X14ieD's for a better air to fuel ratio along with a pair of Screamin' Eagle SP slip-on's and a K&N filter in the OEM airbox. That set up really smoothed out the sporty's low speed manners and improved overall rideability.
After a few months I changed out the Screamin' Eagle SP mufflers for a set of Rush slip-ons with 1-3/4" baffles. As soon as I did that, the bike ran way too lean even with the X14ieD's. The Rush pipes flowed so much better that I needed a different fuel manager. I went with Cobra's simple 3 pot controller (FI2000R) and bypassed the O2 sensors to run only in 'open loop'. Hugh difference in performance with that combination. A month later, swapped the OEM intake for NRHS's round and that really woke everything up. Power delivery is well balanced across the entire rpm range with no gaps or flat spots.
Now I'm looking at going to a 2 into 1 exhaust system for a more mellow sound and a squeak better low end torque. I'm leaning towards Drag Specialties' Python 1800-0494. It's made by V&H and is very similar to their Pro-pipe.
~
#5
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
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Modifying the stock exhaust is the least expensive way to get "a tad louder". We should have a before & after youtube of how to do that later today. Will post the link here as soon as it is up.
#6
^ Here, here! That's exactly what we need...the prices on Sportster exhausts have gotten ridiculous.
#7
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
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A day later than expected, but here it is!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNGKgB0-f5A&
Thunder Torque Inserts
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNGKgB0-f5A&
Thunder Torque Inserts
Trending Topics
#8
Thank you very much for posting that.
Your link shows a 158 and a 258 model family baffle...which is "W" and which is "Q"? Also, might it be easier to leave the muffler on the bike when drilling to steady it then remove it to knock out the baffle?
EDIT: I see now there is a drop down menu once you click on options. Thanks!
Your link shows a 158 and a 258 model family baffle...which is "W" and which is "Q"? Also, might it be easier to leave the muffler on the bike when drilling to steady it then remove it to knock out the baffle?
EDIT: I see now there is a drop down menu once you click on options. Thanks!
Last edited by rickss69; 11-08-2011 at 01:22 AM.
#9
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
Posts: 17,797
Received 4,238 Likes
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2,469 Posts
Thank you very much for posting that.
Your link shows a 158 and a 258 model family baffle...which is "W" and which is "Q"? Also, might it be easier to leave the muffler on the bike when drilling to steady it then remove it to knock out the baffle?
EDIT: I see now there is a drop down menu once you click on options. Thanks!
Your link shows a 158 and a 258 model family baffle...which is "W" and which is "Q"? Also, might it be easier to leave the muffler on the bike when drilling to steady it then remove it to knock out the baffle?
EDIT: I see now there is a drop down menu once you click on options. Thanks!
Best not to leave it on the bike...when drilling the hot metal filings can fly out and embed in the powder coat of the frame. Also, you don't want any metal ending up in your header pipes...reversion will pull them back into your cylinders.
It's not too hard to hold onto when drilling. We have done a bunch of them, and every time we say we should wrap them in something and put them in a vice...but we never do. lol