Brake lights are constantly illuminated.
#12
The tip of the plastic plunger (that's actuated by the brake lever) breaks off. I cut the head off a nail and epoxied it to the plunger. I'm sure there are other ways to improvise a fix. Mine hasn't failed in 4 years. You'll need to take your switch housing apart and you'll see what's up. You can see the plunger from the outside while it's assembled if you know what you're looking for.
Nearly impossible to get a pic. Here's one from the factory. The little plastic nub is circled and you can see the part of the lever almost touching it:
Here, I've circled the nail head I attached with epoxy:
Nearly impossible to get a pic. Here's one from the factory. The little plastic nub is circled and you can see the part of the lever almost touching it:
Here, I've circled the nail head I attached with epoxy:
#13
You will understand it better when you take it apart and inspect how it goes together.
#14
You say you changed bars lately, so that is a likely place to start. Front brake lever must be shimmed to provide space when opening the housing or the nub will break off as stated previously.
I want to mention something I just went through recently. My rear brake switch located at the rear of the master cylinder froze in the on position which caused the brake bulb to stay on, This burned out as well as melted the connector socket internals enough to short out. I finally figured out that I had to replace the connector, then disconnect the pressure switch wires to determine that it was at fault. Finally repacing the switch restored everything to normal. Mine is a Dyna but it's probably similar.
After determining the conector socket is OK, pulling the rear switch wires will allow you to verify that the front brake is or isn't the problem.
I want to mention something I just went through recently. My rear brake switch located at the rear of the master cylinder froze in the on position which caused the brake bulb to stay on, This burned out as well as melted the connector socket internals enough to short out. I finally figured out that I had to replace the connector, then disconnect the pressure switch wires to determine that it was at fault. Finally repacing the switch restored everything to normal. Mine is a Dyna but it's probably similar.
After determining the conector socket is OK, pulling the rear switch wires will allow you to verify that the front brake is or isn't the problem.
Last edited by trekez2; 10-24-2011 at 08:42 PM.
#15
#16
thanks everyone,
My front brake switch was broken off. I am either going to replace it or apply some good ol' appoxy magic like harleyscuba.
On the subject of rear brake switches, since trek brought it up, I briefly read that Harley issued 300,000 recalls on rear brake switches on some models 09-12. I do not know any specifics. You may want to look into it.
My front brake switch was broken off. I am either going to replace it or apply some good ol' appoxy magic like harleyscuba.
On the subject of rear brake switches, since trek brought it up, I briefly read that Harley issued 300,000 recalls on rear brake switches on some models 09-12. I do not know any specifics. You may want to look into it.
#17
thanks everyone,
My front brake switch was broken off. I am either going to replace it or apply some good ol' appoxy magic like harleyscuba.
On the subject of rear brake switches, since trek brought it up, I briefly read that Harley issued 300,000 recalls on rear brake switches on some models 09-12. I do not know any specifics. You may want to look into it.
My front brake switch was broken off. I am either going to replace it or apply some good ol' appoxy magic like harleyscuba.
On the subject of rear brake switches, since trek brought it up, I briefly read that Harley issued 300,000 recalls on rear brake switches on some models 09-12. I do not know any specifics. You may want to look into it.
#18
#19
If you want recall info on all your vehicles, go to www.recalls.gov. That's the fed's official site. You'll be amazed at all the recalls!
#20