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spark plug didnt want to come out

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  #21  
Old 10-24-2011, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ynots
you already seated another plug, Id also skip re-tapping for the same reason stated above. Did you pull the plugs when the engine was hot? How are you torquing your plugs?
pulled plugs when engine was slightly warm. yes, already installed new plug (with anti-seize) torqued to spec (18 ft lbs? --dont have manual in front of me right now). seemed to tighten right down. maybe i'll just leave well enough alone and not run a tap down
 
  #22  
Old 10-24-2011, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mang0


changed my wife's spark plugs in 2010 xl low. front cylinder came right out, the rear was a bastard to get out. once out i could see the reason, but have no idea what would cause something like that--looks like the threads have been welded together. I guess waiting 2 years to change plugs was too long. any ideas what causes this?

J.B. Weld and antiseize do not interchange.
 
  #23  
Old 10-24-2011, 05:29 PM
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Looks like you got it all figured out but you did ask what caused this and I had a thought. Although this probably isnt the case but never try to remove a hot spark plug from an aluminum head. The head cools faster than the plug and the plug has not cooled and contracted. This will also cause the plug to pull threads especially if no anti seize is used. Just some trivial information. Glad you got away cheep this time!
 
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:29 PM
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I'd still try and look at those threads if possible. I've had similar experiences with VWs and thought I was good, only to have a plug blow out on the freeway.
 
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
Looks like you got it all figured out but you did ask what caused this and I had a thought. Although this probably isnt the case but never try to remove a hot spark plug from an aluminum head. The head cools faster than the plug and the plug has not cooled and contracted. This will also cause the plug to pull threads especially if no anti seize is used. Just some trivial information. Glad you got away cheep this time!
good to know, thanks
 
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mang0
pulled plugs when engine was slightly warm. yes, already installed new plug (with anti-seize) torqued to spec (18 ft lbs? --dont have manual in front of me right now). seemed to tighten right down. maybe i'll just leave well enough alone and not run a tap down
I wouldn't if it were in any of my car motors. I'd pull the head and do it the RIGHT way.
 
  #27  
Old 10-25-2011, 10:00 PM
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I got paranoid with my 2011 and yanked both plugs out and coated the threads with anti seize
 
  #28  
Old 10-25-2011, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 1plumr1
You're going to need a heli-coil and use anti-seize from now on.
Yup. I had to do this in my mustang. Them smart ford engineers only had 3 threads holding the plugs in. Advance the timing a bit,high octane performance tune and a 125 hp shot of nitrous and BANG. shot out so hard it dented my hood
 
  #29  
Old 10-26-2011, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaystn62
that does not look good at all. Makes me want to pull my plugs right now.
My bikes still under warranty till June. If i dont pull my plug myself today, then it will be done in the spring when i go in for service and a look over before warranty ends! Dang man!
 
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:31 AM
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If they torqued up to spec , i bet they are fine. I wouldnt think your running nitrous or anything like that , right? Usally in my everyday experience at the gargage i work at. If its too bad stripped then it wont usually torque down. It may tigthten but you can still turn it. I know you guys know! Sorry!
 

Last edited by 2010IRON883; 10-26-2011 at 06:33 AM.


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