Hook dc meter to your tender wires coming off battery. At 2000 RPM it should read 14.8 or so. Charge it 24 hours and let it sit 2 hours. Should read around 12.6 or so. Let it sit 24 hours. Should be still12.6 If not consider this chart.

12.8 = full charged

12.6 = 75%

12.3 = 50%

12.0 =25%



An alarm will pull a battery down but not in a few days. If you have a slow drain with everything off the regulator is bad and draining the battery. The regulator requires special equipment to check other then the ballpark charging of 14.8 or so at 2000rpm.

Bad batteries take out stators.

Carry battery to Walmart and get them to check it. Very possible to get a bad one.

 

i had what seemed like the exact same problem as you when i first got my bike... turned out it was just the cables going to the battery needed to be tightened down extremely tight. they were tight enough as to not come off, but you could spin the eyelit around a little if you pushed on it a bit. going from that tight to extremely tight made all the difference. even if this isnt your problem, its good to know.

 

Not trying to be a troll? HA, but you may want to work on the above. If you can spin the cable end, it's not tight. However not sure if you want to say extremely tight on a lead battery terminal. You do have a good point. Mine have come loose a couple time over the years. Maybe I should try somewhere between a tweak past all play gone and extremely tight.

 

Also check that the ground to the motor is tight.

Drew

 

Checking the stator is dirt simple. Don't get caught up the ohms law. You just need to check for continuity. You don't want any at any of the wires in the stator connector. You should get no tone from a meter connected to the stator wires and the frame of the bike. Another method - a test light connected to the positive battery terminal and the stator wires should not light up.

 

Sorry, but most Sporty stators fail due to an Open (broken) coil wire, so your method would prove nothing. If you don't know Ohm's law or how to properly use a DVM, leave the troubleshooting to someone that does.

The easiest way to check the stator is to measure its output with the motor running. It should vary between 20 - 70 VAC, increasing as the RPM is increased.

 

You forgot to mention to check the voltage on all of the wires. You can have a grounded stator putting out good voltage on two out of three of the legs. I suppose I should have clarified that I was referring to a stator that had gone to ground. You don't need an understanding of ohm's law to analyze that.

Thanks for your comment though. It is encouraging individuals such as yourself that keep the posts coming in.

 

Sorry, but wrong again. His Sporty has a single phase stator, it only has 2 legs. He either has the correct voltage across the 2 legs, or he doesn't.

 

Might also want to check the system relay for corrosion...if it is corroded up inside the relay it can short circuit, which will allow the fuel pump to cycle and drain your battery....this has happened to several people on here & an $8 reley fixed the problem. I had electrical issues and this turned out to be my problem as well.