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Help with primary gasket replacement

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  #11  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by kountry
Yeah I need one lol I didn't think changing the gasket was this deep thanks
Well need I say it.....lol

of course I do

Thats another good use of a manual. You can read about specifics on a project before jumping into it to see how deep it is.



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  #12  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:24 PM
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I have the clutch cable all the way loose still won't pop out.
 
  #13  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:29 PM
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lol lol
 
  #14  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:32 PM
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what year bike?
 
  #15  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:38 PM
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Sigh, yah know. A manual also uses pictures that coincide with text to perform certain procedures.....

Makes it simple as all get out.

Sometimes having one with out the other can make things a bigger pain in the *** than they are.
Thats also why the parts manual kinda goes hand in hand with a service manual cause it has exploded view pictures.


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  #16  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:40 PM
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Don't know how many dowels there are in the Primary cover but more than likely you will have to use a rubber mallet to tap on the cover to break it loose....Don't try to pry it off because you could damage the gasket surface which can result in leaks...
 
  #17  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:45 PM
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Ihave the tension bolt backed all the way out. All bolts are out. Inspection covers off. Clutch cable loosed at the boot. I didn't want to damage the clutch cable getting it off the clutch. I tried to loosen the cable where it goes to the cover but it spins the whole cable. Thanks for helping you guuys. It's a 2000 883
 
  #18  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by kountry
Yeah I need one lol I didn't think changing the gasket was this deep thanks

That's what SHE said. lol
 
  #19  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:49 PM
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PRIMARY DRIVE COVER
(1994-2003)

Removal
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (Chapter Twelve).
2. Remove the left side footrest assembly (Chapter Seventeen).
3. Drain the transmission oil (Chapter Three).
4. Loosen the locknut (A, Figure 3) and turn the primary
chain adjuster screw (B) to loosen the chain.
5. Slide the rubber boot off the clutch in-line cable adjuster.
6. Loosen the adjuster jam nut (A, Figure 13) and turn the
adjuster (B) to provide maximum cable slack.
7. Remove the clutch inspection cover.
8. Remove the quad ring (A, Figure 14).
9. Remove the spring and lockplate (B, Figure 14).
10. Turn the clutch adjusting screw (A, Figure 15) clockwise
and release the ramp (B) and coupling (C). Turn the
clutch adjusting screw clockwise to move the ramp assembly
forward. Then unscrew the nut (D, Figure 15) from the
end of the adjusting screw and remove it.
11. Pivot the hook on the ramp to the rear of the cable end
coupling. Then disconnect and remove the clutch cable
from the slot in the coupling. Remove the coupling and
ramp assembly.
12A. On 883C and 1200C models, remove the bolt and
washer securing the rod assembly to the shift lever, then remove
the shift lever.
12B. On models except 883C and 1200C models, remove
the clamp bolt and washer securing the shift lever to the
shift shaft, then remove the shift lever.
13. Unscrew the clutch cable housing fitting (Figure 16)
from the primary drive cover.
14. Remove the primary drive cover mounting bolts, then
remove the cover and gasket.
15. Remove the dowel pins, if necessary.
16. If necessary, remove the clutch mechanism as described
in this chapter.
17. If necessary, service the following components as described
in this chapter:
a. Clutch release mechanism.
b. Primary chain adjuster.
c. Shift shaft oil seal.
 
  #20  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:49 PM
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Your going to wish you had the pictures to go with that.
 


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